Wire shelving rabbit cage

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50 Free DIY Rabbit Hutch Plans & Ideas to Get You Started Keeping Rabbits

Other than as a pet, rabbits are one of the best animals to raise for meat because they’re a sustainable meat source. Even though they’re not as popular as chickens, but meat production is comparable.

In fact, one pair of rabbits can produce more than 300lbs of meat per year!

That is pretty amazing considering they take very little to feed and don’t require a lot of space, it makes them a viable meat source for really anyone. You could live in the suburbs and still raise meat rabbits.

To start raising rabbits, first, you need a hutch.

If you prefer to build a rabbit hutch or cage by yourself, you’ve come to the right place. We have collected 50 DIY rabbit hutch plans from all over the internet.

…before we begin:

If this is the first time you’re keeping rabbits, there are two books we recommend you to read to raise a happy and healthy herd of rabbits:

Hands down the most complete guide on raising rabbits for meat, show, fur, or even as pets. Every rabbit owner should read this book at least once.

Get the book on Amazon ›

If you’re also thinking of raising animals other than rabbits such as chickens or goats, but you don’t want to buy one book for each, then this is for you.

Get the book on Amazon ›

Now, let’s begin to the first free rabbit hutch plans:

1. Basic DIY Hutch


This rabbit hutch is a very basic, DIY hutch. It is basically a box on legs. This keeps the rabbits off of the ground to deter predators or at least make it more difficult for them to get to the rabbits.

It has wire sides that allow you to see in and the rabbit to see out. There are also places for the feeder and waterer to sit nicely. There is also a rabbit hole on the inside to give the rabbit a place to have babies and feel secure.

So if you are handy with the hammer and nails then this hutch would be a good fit if you are looking for functional over fancy.

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2. The Multi-Cage Hutch


My husband and I are actually in the process of building a hutch similar to this one. Let me tell you why.

Having multiple single hutches when you have quite a few rabbits begins to take up a lot of space. It also makes feeding and watering more of a chore because you have to walk around to all of the different cages.

These cages that keep all of your bunnies together make feeding and cleaning the hutches much more efficient. You just have to pay closer attention to illness because they are closer together. And it is possible for rabbits to breed through the wire.

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3. The Multi-Cage Hutch Tutorial Video

This is a very detailed video of how to build a rabbit duplex. It gives you obvious visuals during the tutorial as it is a video.

If you are someone that isn’t strong in the area of carpentry then this video might help you gain the confidence to build your own hutch.

This hutch is another one that can hold multiple rabbits in separate areas yet as one attached hutch. For the purpose of keeping things condensed and efficient, this is a great hutch option.

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4. The Multi-Rabbit Hutch


This is another beautifully built wooden hutch that is meant to house up to three separate rabbits. I cannot stress enough how much easier this makes it on the rabbit keeper having all of your rabbits together.

However, I also want to touch on the beautiful woodwork going on with this hutch. Just because you are raising animals doesn’t mean that you still don’t want your property to look good. This hutch would certainly add to the beauty factor of your property and not harm it.

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5. The All Wire Rabbit Cage

This is a great video that shows in a lot of detail on how to build a rabbit cage that is made from solid wire.

Now, this might not be as beautiful of a hutch as you would want. But if you are someone who cares more about functionality then this cage is exactly that.

The benefit of an all wire cage is that it is much easier to keep clean and is also very good at keeping your rabbits safe. Predators have a hard time chewing through wires. Your rabbit’s safety is always a top priority as they have many predators.

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6. Pallet Rabbit Hutch


If you are like me, you love pallets. They are so versatile and can be used for almost anything, Including building a rabbit hutch.

So if you are short on funds or maybe just want to upcycle something into a rabbit hutch then this is a viable option for you.

Another upside to using pallets is their strength. Pallets are very durable so a hutch made from them should be predator-proof.

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7. PVC Hutch


This hutch appears to be very budget friendly. It is also great that you can have all of your wire cages in one location.

The only downside to this hutch is I’m wondering how secure it actually is. And since there doesn’t appear to be any rabbit holes, it will be important to place your bunnies in the shade.

Rabbits get very hot very quickly so they’ll need to either be placed in a cooler location or have an area they can hang out in when the sun becomes too much for them.

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8. DIY Rabbit Hutch


This is another hutch that can be built by you. It is a beautiful option. I personally really love it as a single hutch plan.

It has a beautiful wood finish and a tin roof that protects the rabbit from sunlight and rain. The hutch has a country flair to it that makes it look very homey for your furry additions.

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9. The A-Frame Hutch


I’ll be honest, I had never seen hutches like this before. But now that I have, I like them. I still think I would prefer a multi-housing option, but if you have only a few rabbits or want to keep your rabbits separate this design is very unique.

I love how it is still on legs as to protect the rabbits. It has a wire a-frame structure. And then has a rabbit hole as well.

What I love the most are the big openings which make it easy to get to your rabbit when needed. This hutch also looks very easy to clean and maintain.

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10. The Indoor Rabbit Cage


So let’s say you are someone that doesn’t want to eat your furry friends. Instead, you want to raise them as a pet. Rabbits are a great pet, and I love ours dearly though they aren’t quite at ‘pet status.’

But if this is your intentions then you would definitely like this indoor hutch. It is beautiful and wooden. I love how it opens to make removing the rabbit and cleaning the hutch much easier.

It is not an eyesore which is great for anything that is going to be in your home. It is also built to hold multiple rabbits. Don’t want multiple indoor rabbits? That’s okay, use it for bunny supply storage.

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11. The 2-Story Bunny Hutch

This is another hutch intended for a pet rabbit. But let me just say, if your bunny has one of these hutches then they are living the life!

They have their living quarters and food upstairs, while their potty and sleeping quarters are downstairs. And it has a great ramp that allows them to come out into the home when open but keeps them in when it is closed back into the hutch.

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12. The PVC Single Hutch


I think the usage of materials in this project are very creative and functional. They basically use wood to build the legs, frame, and bunny hole for this hutch.

But they use PVC pipe to finish out the frame on top. Then fill in the open spaces with wire. This hutch has everything an outdoor rabbit would need. And it should be budget friendly because of the materials used.

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13. The Indoor/Outdoor Rabbit Hutch


This is an awesome idea for a rabbit hutch. If you a building a garage that you’d like to keep your bunnies in then definitely consider this hutch.

Basically, what they did was cut a hole in the side of the garage and built a wire cage that connects on the inside and outside. It is also divided so they can house multiple rabbits.

Then the rabbits have roofing over the outside of the cage to protect them from the elements. This gives them breeze when needed and protection from frigid temperatures when needed too.

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14. The Dresser Hutch

So you want to raise rabbits inside for whatever purpose you have in mind. You don’t have a lot of money to invest in this venture, but you do have an old dresser.

Well, you are headed in the right direction with this hutch. She takes the doors off and converts this dresser into a multi-housing hutch that will house up to four rabbits.

It also has drawers in the bottom to store the necessary rabbit supplies needed.

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15. The Bunny Condo


The person that created this hutch did so in order for it to match with their IKEA décor. So if you are an IKEA person then this hutch might have you sold on it from hello.

Basically, they bought a piece of furniture they call an Expedit. It reminds me of a large bookshelf. They say you can save the shelving and then turn it into a multi-housing hutch if you have two rabbits you have to separate.

They then convert it into a hutch that will give their rabbit all of the comforts necessary for a happy house bunny. All the while, the hutch blends into their décor.

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16. Super Rabbit Condo


This is another IKEA hack meant to house a house bunny and give the optimal amount of space. So they began by purchasing a large shelving system.

They then converted it into a large hutch filled with ramps so the bunny can run on multiple levels and stretch her legs as much as she desired.

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17. The Bunny Do Hutch


This hutch was once again transformed from a piece of IKEA furniture. The owners wanted it to blend in with their present décor.

I love the look of this hutch because it is actually two levels. But the hutch can be completely opened by pulling the drawers downward. That makes for much easier cleaning and handling of the bunny.

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18. A Large Outdoor Rabbit Hutch


This rabbit hutch is actually quite large. It has been lifted for safety purposes for the rabbit. My favorite part is the large doors.

Having large doors in your rabbit hutches is so important because it makes catching your bunny much easier. It also makes cleaning the hutch much easier and that is so important for proper bunny health.

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19. Hanging Wire Cages

This is a unique approach to a rabbit hutch. If you have a pergola around that has nothing under it then put it to use.

All you have to do is build a small roof under the pergola and then hang the wire rabbit cages from that sturdy roof.

This is great because the rabbits are protected from the elements because of the roof. They are protected from predators because they are off of the ground. And they are protected from the sun because of the large pergola.

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20. The Kid-Friendly Rabbit Hotel


Do you have children that you’d like to get involved in the raising of rabbits? Well, that is awesome!

These hutches are built with small children in mind. The reason is a lot of commercially bought rabbit hutches have large lids that have to be lifted if you are going to do anything with the rabbits.

This becomes a hazard as they can slam down onto your children’s hands. So if this is a concern for you then take a look at this beautiful hutch that looks great and makes it much easier for your children to participate in raising rabbits.

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21. The Small Rabbit Hutch


This rabbit hutch is very no frills but is still very functional. It is basically wood put together to build a box. The box is then divided.

One side of the box is finished and used as the rabbit hole. The other side has wire walls so the rabbit can see out and it also makes an easy cleanup. The rabbit hutch will have to be placed somewhere off of the ground for safety purposes.

However, this rabbit hutch should be very inexpensive to build and make for easy care of your rabbit friend.

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22. The Outdoor Rabbit Hutch


This rabbit hutch is another basic plan. It has a rabbit hole and large living section for your rabbit.

There is a door that gives you direct access to the rabbit hole which is a nice feature to have since that is where rabbits usually have their babies.

You will need easy access to them in their earliest days to keep a close eye on them and make sure things are progressing as they should.

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23. The Mobile Rabbit Hutch


This is a unique hutch to have. It is on wheels which makes it very easy to move around whether it be indoors or outdoors.

I love that it has two compartments. One is for the rabbit hole while the other is for regular living quarters.

There are two doors so you can access the rabbit in whichever compartment it is in at the moment.

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24. The Rabbit Tractor


This design reminds me very much of a small chicken coop. It can also be treated as a tractor because it is very easy to move around.

So the rabbits can hang around in the bottom and enjoy munching on the grass beneath their feet. Or they can use the ramp and head upstairs where they can play, rest, or eat even.

If you need a smaller hutch option then this one might be exactly what you’ve been looking for.

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25. The 2-Story Outdoor Hutch


This hutch is another outdoor hutch with two stories. It allows the rabbits to hop around in the bottom and enjoy eating whatever greenery is around them.

Then they can use the ramp to hop up to the top which allows them to enjoy the view. They can access their food or just have a more secure location if needed.

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26. Basic Outdoor Rabbit Hutch


This is another plan for an outdoor rabbit hutch. It has a wired section where the rabbit can enjoy a simple breeze or have a place to stretch out.

But there is also a covered area where the door is located so that the rabbit can have some privacy. This allows them to get out of sight to sleep or give birth.

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27. Single Or Double Decker Hutch

For those that are confident in their carpentry skills, this is a great project for you. The plans are very detailed which could make this project easier for those that don’t have quite as much building experience.

It shows you how to build a multi-housing single deck rabbit hutch. Which is very efficient for the rabbit keeper.

But if you want to take it up a notch and add a few more rabbits then you can always have a double-deck which would make keeping that amount of rabbits that much more efficient.

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28. The A-Frame Rabbit Tractor


This is a movable rabbit tractor. It has an A-frame shape which gives the rabbits ample amount of room to hop around in the open.

But it also gives them a closed space to run to if they desire a break from the heat or are in fear. This is also a great option because you don’t really have to feed them much if you are able to move them around on the ground.

My only warning is to beware of predators. Lots of things like to eat rabbits and this hutch would be no problem for a dog to turn over.

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29. 5 Rabbit Housing Plans

This site has five very different plans to choose from involving housing your rabbit. If you are interested in raising your rabbits for meat then they have plans for a great set-up to help you get off to the right start.

If you don’t like that set-up or have no desire to eat your rabbits there are also other plans that would help you keep your rabbits safe and comfortable.

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30. PVC Portable Rabbit Hutch


These plans show a PVC frame that supports up to six wire rabbit cages. If you are breeding rabbits for show or simply to sell this might be a viable option for you.

Because this set-up is on wheels it would be very easy to keep indoors and move around as needed. It also appears to be budget-friendly because of the materials used.

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31. The 3-Tier Rabbit Cage


This idea is very creative and comfortable for the indoor rabbit. They place their litter box in the bottom but then give the rabbit two sleeping areas which double as landing pads.

Rabbits remind me of cats as they are very curious creatures and like to see what is going on. But they are also a little timid. This set-up would help them embrace their curious and creative side. And I’m sure they will provide lots of entertainment for you.

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32. The PVC Frame


This frame is built from PVC pipe. It is meant to hold an indoor rabbit cage. The whole purpose of this idea is to make cleaning easier for you.

A lot of indoor cages have slide-out trays which can be a hassle because they often drop bedding everywhere as you try to dump them.

This frame allows you to remove the whole cage for easy cleaning so you don’t have to drag mess all the way through your home.

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33. The 3-Tier Wire Cage


This is an absolutely adorable idea (and the rabbits are adorable too!) They have combined three wire cages and added ramps so the rabbits can get to each level as they are teeny tiny little guys living in it.

This way they have their food and potty area on the bottom. Then they have two levels for sleeping and playing.

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34. The Upcycled Rabbit Hutch

So if you are having to build only from what you have on hand then this hutch might work for you. They were able to build it all from a pallet crate and center blocks.

However, I have to offer a few suggestions to these plans so maybe you can consider them and work around them if you build this hutch.

There needs to be more spacing. The rabbit on top is literally using the bathroom all over the one on the bottom. And I believe I would make it a little bit bigger as New Zealand rabbits are big bunnies.

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35. The A-frame Rabbit Tractor


This rabbit tractor is a little smaller than the one mentioned before. However, it is still a great idea as you wouldn’t have to feed your rabbit much because it would constantly eat the greenery beneath its feet.

As I said before though, you must use great caution when using rabbit tractors because they are easy to knock over and dogs show no mercy when it comes to rabbits.

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36. The Double Door Rabbit Hutch


I like this rabbit hutch. The rabbit has a nesting box, plenty of living space, and even a window to look out while eating. What more could a bunny ask for, right?

However, what I love the most is the ease of using this hutch. The double doors make it very easy for you to access your bunny anywhere she might be. You can also easily check in on her nesting box if kits are in the equation.

Cleaning would be much easier as well since both doors open. It just looks like a user-friendly hutch.

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37. The Bunny Hole Tractor


This is another tractor idea. But this one is a rectangle shape instead of an A-frame shape.

So what I like the most about this tractor is that it has a large rabbit hole. That rabbit hole is the only real protection from sun and predators that rabbit has. The fact that this one is so large and easy to access, I really like.

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38. The Double Door Rabbit Hutch #2


This rabbit hutch is on legs which makes it that much more predator-proof. But it too has double doors.

This makes for a large living space for the bunny and makes for easier access and cleaning for the owner.

The design is quite simple so it appears as though it would be easier to build which is always an added bonus.

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39. The Bunny Hutch On Wheels


This bunny hutch is unique and adorable. It looks like a little pushcart as it has a handle and everything.

I love the different shaped windows for you to see in and the bunny to see out. I also love that this hutch has a rabbit hole and a ramp so the rabbit can easily get out of the hutch if you want it to.

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40. The Extra Ventilation Rabbit Hutch


This design is very easy to follow. I love how easy the instructions are and are laid in plain language so you can easily understand what they are talking about.

I also love how this hutch is a traditional design with a little twist. The sideboards don’t have to be screwed down. Instead, they can be placed on hinges in order to give your rabbit extra ventilation on days you deem it necessary.

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41. The Urban Rabbit Tractor


This is an intentional compact design that would be great for urban rabbit keepers. The tractor design allows your rabbits to have a fresh salad bar daily but is also easy to move so they don’t damage your lawn.

However, it is also a rabbit house that is up off the ground. This is done so the rabbits can seek shelter under the house on super sunny days or on rainy days.

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42. The 3-Tier Rabbit Race Course

This is a wire cage design that is put together to give your rabbit three levels of racing fun. Your rabbit can use the ramps to race up and down each level.

So this is an amazing form of exercise for your indoor bunny. It has enough space that you could actually keep quite a few indoor bunnies inside this hutch idea.

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43. Double And Single Decker Multi-Housing Plans

These are literal plans. They appear to be easy enough to read but it isn’t laid out like a blog post which makes DIY projects a little easier for those less experienced.

But I digress, again if you are wanting to keep a multitude of rabbits this is a great way to do that.

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44. Rabbit House Plans

These are more literal plans. Again, this is not laid out like a blog post which might make it a little more difficult to follow for those that are not as experienced in carpentry.

However, if you are up for the challenge or an experienced builder then this should be an interesting project. The idea of a rabbit house is great for protecting your rabbits and makes caring for them much easier.

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45. Basic Rabbit Hutch Plans

These are more plans. Again, they are pretty simple to read. These plans are for your basic single rabbit bunny hutch.

It should provide ample amount of space for your rabbit and also provide lots of protection from predators and the elements which are a high priority for an outdoor rabbit.

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46. 2 Bay Rabbit Hutch Design

These plans are very extensive. To say you would be building a large rabbit keeping operation with this hutch, would be totally accurate.

This hutch is designed to hold quite a few rabbits and make caring for them and maintaining their hutches as easy as possible.

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47. The ‘Everything You Need’ Hutch

If you are wanting to raise a large bunch of meat production rabbits then this hutch has everything you need. These plans are very detailed and give all kinds of ideas for things that would be quite handy.

To begin, you can have a large number of double-decker cages. It also includes a large roof meant to protect your bunnies from all kinds of elements.

But one of the best features is the fact that a storage area is included. That way you can keep all feed, bedding, and any other need on hand and it is easily accessible.

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48. The Rabbit Tractor


These plans give ideas on how to build a rabbit tractor. You can make it in a traditional style, meaning that the tractor will be rectangular.

Or you can also build the tractor in a non-traditional style, meaning that it will be rounded. It is ultimately up to you. But rabbit tractors are a great option because of the amount of space and constant fresh food on hand.

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49. A Traditional Hutch


This hutch is another that is a very traditional style. This means that it is raised off of the ground for protection. It is also rectangular in shape with a slanted roof that will protect the rabbits from the elements.

So if you are looking for just a simple hutch that will do the trick for one bunny, this hutch would most likely fulfill that wish list.

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50. The Indoor Hutch Transformation


This hutch was once a basic piece of furniture. They took the front doors off and left the inside shelf.

Then they added mesh wire and frame up a new door so the bunny could see out. It was then a fully functional rabbit hutch.

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As you can see rabbit hutches don’t have to be extravagant nor complex. They are very simple animals that are happy with a breezy spot, nesting box, food, and water.

All rabbits really require beyond that are opportunities to stretch their legs and a clean hutch. So if you are considering rabbits whether it be for meat or as a pet, they are great animals that provide hours of cute moments and entertainment.

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Sours: https://morningchores.com/rabbit-hutch-plans/

Show me your rabbit cages & I'll show you mine!

Jun 15, 2008
My cages are mostly made from storage grids which are referred to as C&C (cubes and coroplast) cages on the guinea pig forum and NIC cages on the rabbit forums. They've also been called lego cages by a few of us because you can mix and match and build cages just like playing with legos as kids. I think I redid my guinea pig cage designs every 6 months.

The indoor cage has a 6x3' plywood bottom painted in marine polyurethane which makes it clean and act like plastic but is sturdier and longer lasting than the coroplast/corugated plastic used as the bottom of guinea pig cages.

The picture is the original version made of only grids with 2 doors that swing out. The new version has had the door replaced by 2, 2x4' wire shelving panels connected to each other so the door folds and lifts upward. It sits more evenly, is sturdier, and dog resistent than the swing out doors made of several grids. Also takes a lot less zip ties going everywhere so it looks cleaner.

The outdoor cages are 2x4' with the bottom covered in 1/2x1" wire. They are similar design with grids down the back, sides, top, and bottom with shelving panels that swing up spanning each level as the door. The center dividers are removable and we've since made the floors rest on metal L supports so the whole floor can be lifted out for cleaning without having to haul the cage system outside. We give 2x2' minimum for the mini rex and take the divider out to make 2x4' for the d'argent does which are about twice as big.

This is not the cheapest way to make cages but I've been reusing some of those storage grids for years. So long as you don't scrape them up or let the silver ones sit in wet ground too much they last forever. I've built guinea pig cages, chicken pens, quail growout cages, and now rabbit cages out of the same grids for the past 10 years. I think I counted that I had acquired 100 of them before I moved from the apartment with the guinea pigs to this house and land where I could keep more animals especially outdoor ones. If you want cheaper but probably not as long lasting or able to hold as much weight check out http://www.klubertanz.com/Catalog.htm stacked cage systems or cage building materials.
Sours: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/show-me-your-rabbit-cages-ill-show-you-mine.433080/
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The Perfect (Cheap) Bunny Cage

The idea here is to make one shelf of 3 panels by 1 panel, 6 squares up, and another shelf 2 panels by 1 panel, 12 squares up. This should work well for bunnies less than 7 lbs. If your bunny is bigger, you may need to eliminate the upper shelf and raise the bottom shelf. Or, if you're really dedicated, make the cage 3 squares high instead of two, and raise both shelves to about 8 squares and 16 squares, respectively, or more, depending on the size of the bunny.

Step by Step:

Make a grid of 3 panels by 1 panel, tying them together. Make another grid of 2 panels by 1 panel. Using a hacksaw or a box cutter (easier), cut your door skin into 2 pieces, one 14" by 42" or slightly smaller, the other 14" by 28"or slightly smaller, if it isn't already cut.

Using the electric drill, drill 8 holes in the first piece, 4 along each long end, evenly space, starting 1/4" from the corner, all about ¼" from the edge. Spacing is not crucial. Just make sure you don't split the wood by drilling too close to the edge. If you have an old phone book, you can use this to back up your piece of wood as you drill into it. When you're done with it, you can give it to your bunny for hours of shredding fun.

Now, take the other piece of wood and drill 6 holes in it, 3 along each side, so one in each corner, and one in the middle of each long side near the edge in the same manner.

If you haven't cut your dowels, do so now with the hacksaw. Now, about 1/2" from end, drill straight through the dowel so you can see down to the ground. Turn it around and do it again. Repeat with the other dowel.

At this point, you'll probably want to take off the roof of the cage to make it easier to maneuver. Nail clippers work great for cutting the tightened zip ties.

Now we're ready to assemble. Attach the 3 by 1 panel shelf 6 squares up on the side away from door. Use lots of zip ties, at least 1 every 2 squares, and use 2 per square at the very edge. Take your long dowel and run it through under the very front square attaching the shelf to the cage, right under the shelf itself. It should be resting on top of the fifth square from the bottom. This is to provide extra support for both the cage and the shelf. Take one zip tie and run it through the hole in one end of the dowel. Run one end of the zip tie around the metal where the shelf connects, then zip tight. This is a little awkward, but it works. The dowel should lift slightly off the bar it was resting on when you tighten the tie. Do the same on the other end.

Prepare the hot glue gun as it says on the package. The metal tip is the most dangerous part, as it can get extremely hot and burn you. Make sure this is not touching anything, and read the instructions.

Take your piece of wood and fit it onto the shelf. If it is too large to fit, trim it. Use the holes you've drilled in it to zip tie it to the metal directly underneath. It may bulge a little, but should be fine. Remember to trim the zip ties in the middle, as these will be dangling into your bunny's face.

Once the glue gun is heated, dribble some hot glue onto the wood and attach the carpet. There's really no formula to this — just don't get so caught up in using the glue that it dries before you can put the carpet on. You may want to glue it in stages, rolling the carpet up, placing one end on a pre-glued part of the wood and gluing under it as you slowly unroll it.

For the second shelf, repeat this process except attach it 12 squares up, 6 squares above the first shelf. The second shelf should be perpendicular to the first. To use the hot glue gun on this shelf, it will be easier to remove the cage roof first. I actually left the roof off the finished cage, as the dowels really stabilize it, but beware that intrepid bunnies might try to jump from the second shelf to outside the cage. You can always make it the sides higher.


Q. Is this difficult? Do I need any special tools/skills to make my bunny her very own palace?

A. Definitely not! The only thing you need to be able to do is use nylon ties, which are very simple and have instructions on the package (basically, stick long tail through little nubby opening at end and pull). For the "Additions," you do need to know how to safely use a hacksaw (not as dangerous as it sounds) and an electric drill. However, nothing needs to be extremely precise, so a basic skill is fine.

Q How much time does this take to set up?

With a friend, it should take you a little less than an hour. After disassembling and reassembling my own cage multiple times, I can make the entire thing by myself in about 15 minutes. The "Additions" take more time, about an hour and a half including all cutting.

Q. Won't my bunny chew through the zip ties?

A. Maybe. If your bunny is a dedicated chewer, try cutting the ends short and turning all the nubby ends out, where he can't reach them. Most bunnies will test their teeth on one or two ties, then get bored. If you still notice multiple ties coming off every day, you may want to get some telephone wire and wire cutters (Home Depot again) to replace the chewed off zip ties. You should still be able to use the ties on the floor, roof and upper reaches of the cage.

If you find your bunny is chewing the carpet, replace it with grass or straw mats from Cost Plus or Pier One that are totally edible.

Q. If the panels are made of wire grid, can't I just elevate the floor and put a pan underneath the cage, like all the other bunny cages?

A. The problem with the squares in the Creative Cubes is that they are 1" by 1", too big for even the biggest bunny to walk on without support. Besides, the cage is supposed to be a palace, and if your bunny is litter box trained enough to be indoors in the first place, as most bunnies are, he doesn't need the wire floor at all. If you still insist on making a wire floor, raise the Creative Cube floor up one square, and tie down a smaller wire grid onto the Creative Cube floor. Check out Home Depot or Lowe's or a similar store for smaller wire, preferably with squares a few centimeters. Put a sheet of curved plastic underneath to catch droppings/urine.

Q. Can I use this cage outdoors?

A. NO! This cage is not safe enough or sturdy enough to put outdoors. House outdoor bunnies in hutches with fly screen and a good latch or lock.

Q. But we have a covered patio/safe yard.

A. No, no, no, this is not an outdoor cage. Even though your bunny may not get rained on, he would still be prey to mosquitoes, flies, raccoons, stray dogs, and anything else that may wander into your yard. See our page on Myxomitosis for more information.

Q. I've built the cage, but it's too wide to fit out the front door/into our car and we're moving. What do I do?

A. Here's what I do: using nail clippers or scissors, cut the zip ties holding the roof to the walls and the floor to the walls. To save time, money, and a whole mess, cut ONLY those ties needed to remove the floor and the roof whole. What you should have if you lay everything flat are 2 grids of 2 panels by 3 panels, and 1 grid of 2 panels by 6 panels. You can fold them up, move them wherever you want and reconnect them. Just remember not to connect the door panel to the roof or the floor. If you've made the additions, it's the same principal. Just cut a few more zip ties and end up with a few more panels (the shelves).

Q. I've made the cage, but what do I do with all these extra panels?

A. You can build a shelf or two inside the cage, as explained in "Additions" in this brochure. You can make an exercise pen with zip ties. Or, you can make shelving units like it says on the box. :->

Sours: https://bunssb.org/bunnies/perfect-cheap-bunny-cage

Wire shelving cage...

I've seen the video before. He has a few other videos which are worth a viewing also.

macksmom98":12vb51h9 said:

Love this, thanks for sharing! Will need some types of covering to protect from rain, but I think tarps or something of that nature would work.....

Click to expand...

I believe this guy keeps his cages indoors in a shed/barn.

SarniaTricia":12vb51h9 said:

My research questions were:A. Is it any cheaper? B. Can I find these shelving pieces 2nd hand?C. Would the wire be ok for the rabbit's feet?

Click to expand...

A: It all depends. (Helpful answer, I know) After I saw the video awhile back I just did a quick pricing and the total was close to the price of actual real cages. (Your Milage May Vary) I looked up on Home Depot and the shelving to build a 2'D x 6'W x 16"H would cost $61. Plus you would need to buy tools and supplies for putting it together if you don't have any. In my area you can find actual cages for roughly the same price +/- $20.

Now if you can get the supplies on sale, have supplies laying around, or if some fall off the back of a truck; you could build it way cheaper. Or maybe it's easier to get shelving like this than real cages or cage wire. Or maybe saving $10/$20 dollars is worth building these cages. Or your area has limited options for cages and you can't really get a decent deal on real cages. Or maybe you like DIY projects. Or the shipping from a cage supplier is just too much for you. There a plenty of reasons to go this route.

B: You might? There's a chance you could find anything. But in all honesty you would be extremely lucky to find what you need cheap. Essentially you would need to find someone who bought way too much shelving and can't return it to the store. Otherwise you're looking at pieces that were cut to length. As far as many people would be concerned it would be worth more as scrap metal than collecting a bunch and trying to resell it. Now that doesn't mean you can't get lucky and find a majority of the pieces you need. But I would bet that if you wanted to build that cage, you'd have to go out and actually buy the shelving at normal prices.

C: I think the wire on most shelving like that would be ok for a rabbit's feet. The wire is think enough to handle a shelf-load of items; so there should be enough support for a rabbit without the wire digging into its feet.


Sours: https://rabbittalk.com/threads/31540/

Rabbit wire cage shelving

Making a Cube Rabbit Cage

storage cube

Cubes cages first become popular as housing for guinea pigs but their flexibility can be used to great effect for rabbit housing too. The original product (available in the US) is Neat Idea Cubes (NIC) made by Fellowes are square wire frames which, when joined together, are designed to build cheap shelving. Similar products are also available from various other companies.

These grids can also be used to build excellent rabbit cages. They are very flexible and by combining multiple packs you can build very large cages.

large multi-level cube rabbit cage

Building Tips

The cubes come with plastic clips to fasten the individual grids together. If you find these aren't doing the job or are difficult to clip together then use cable ties (electrical ties) instead. You can buy ties in various colours so you can match them to your cage. If you expect to take your rabbit cage apart regularly then buy reusable cable ties, they are a little extra but make taking the cubes apart and putting them together again much easier!

To make a cage door use cable ties on one side as hinges (don't fix them too tight or the door won't open) and use a bull dog clip to latch the door closed.


There are several options for flooring depending on how messy your rabbits are. If your rabbits have impeccable litter training habits and don't chew your carpet then you could stand the cube cage directly on the floor.

For those with less well behaved rabbits, you can place a piece of lino under the cage, cut it larger that the base of the cage to leave several inches overhang outside the cage - this prevents your rabbit accessing the edge making it hard to chew. This is particularly good for cages that are an irregular shape or very large.

You can also build a tray for the cage using corrugated plastic. Cut the tray to the size of the cage plus the height of the sides you want. Then score along the folds and bend up the sides. A piece of tape on each corner will keep it in place. For extra protection you can add a line of marine sealant along the joints at each corner. If your rabbit chews then stand the cube cage inside the tray.

You could also build a wooden tray and line it with lino or tiles to make it easy to clean.

wooden tray


A second (or third) floor is a great way to give your rabbit more space without covering your whole room in cubes. Small shelves can be made by attaching grids horizontally with cable ties. Larger shelves may need extra support (particularly for heavier rabbits). To add support thread a length of wood through one of the grid squares from one side of the cage to the other and rest the shelf on this. You may need to replace the wood supports now and then if your rabbit chews on it. You can make wooden shelves to rest on the supports if you prefer these to using the grids.

Shelves MUST be solid so if you use grids cover them with wood, lino, carpet etc. A good option is hardboard covered with lino/tiles to create an easy to clean surface. You can add rubber or straw matting for extra grip.

wooden shelves covered in tiles with mats for grip


Young fit rabbits should be able to jump on/off a low shelf, but if you have high shelves or an less agile rabbit a step or ramp is a good idea. Ramps can be made very easily from a plank of wood. Drill a hole or screw in a eyelet to thread cable ties through to fix the ramp in place at the top. Grips on the ramp can be made with wooden batons, cube squares or, if your rabbit doesn't chew, by fixing a piece of carpet on.

wooden ramp with battons for grip

Where to Find Mesh Storage Cubes in the UK

Various brands of 'cubes' are sold and prices vary a lot. Here are some sources. The are also sometimes available from Wickes, Screwfix, B&Q or Argos.

Safco Wire Cubes Storage System (20 x 14" panels)
Amazon £35 inc. delivery
Wayfair £37 inc. delivery

Wire Mini Grid Panel System from robertmay.co.uk
£35 inc. delivery (17 x 14" panels)

Modular Wire Cube Displays from displaysense.co.uk
Various size sets available plus individual panels (£2.30 each)

A similar product with plastic panel instead of mesh is available. A completely plastic cage would have poor ventilation but you could mix 'n' match eg use plastic panels for the back and shelves.

Where to Find in the US

Whitmor Storage Cubes from Amazon $19 + shipping or 6 cube set for $29 or from Staples at the same price. These sets are available in black or white.

Safco Wire Cube Storage from Amazon $29.

Variations are also sometimes available in Target, Wallmart, Office Max and Sam's Club.

More Info

You might also be interested in:

Sours: http://localhost/
Build and Mount a DIY Wire Shelving Rabbit Cage - Version 2.0 - New and Improved Design!

Are you thinking of getting a rabbit? Perhaps you’re wondering whether a rabbit can live in a dog crate? If you’re planning to get a rabbit, one of the most important considerations is where your new pet will live. There are many different cages and hutches available, but choosing one that is right for your home can be tricky. 

This article will look at whether a rabbit can live in a dog crate and tips on transforming a dog cage into the perfect home for your new pet. With a bit of DIY, you’ll soon have a fantastic new home for your rabbit. 

Can a rabbit live in a dog crate?

Actually, yes, a rabbit can live in a dog crate. A dog crate combined with a playpen type enclosure makes for a perfect housing situation for your rabbit when it lives indoors. It allows you to make a cozy den area and allows for plenty of room to run around and stretch their legs.

When buying a rabbit, the type of enclosure it will live in will be your top priority. The first thing you’ll need to decide is whether your rabbit will live indoors or outside. If you have a yard where your rabbit will live, you’ll need to either buy or build a hutch. There are many different types of rabbit enclosures on the market for rabbits designed for outdoor use, including hutches and runs. 

If you plan to keep your rabbit in your home, you’ll need to buy a cage suitable to house a rabbit. Alternatively, you could transform a dog crate into a home for your bunny. As long as you buy a large enough dog crate and make some alterations, a dog crate makes a great rabbit enclosure. 

If you already have a dog crate making it into a rabbit home is likely to be the most cost-effective solution. You can make adjustments to the base so that the rabbit can’t throw hay and poop into the room, and you can also add shelves to a taller dog crate that will create a multi-layered enclosure for your pet. 

Buying a dog crate

If you’ve decided that a dog crate would make the best home for your rabbit, you can purchase one from most local pet stores or online. Dog crates come in a wide selection of sizes and are generally wider and taller than cages specifically designed for rabbits. When buying a dog cage for your rabbit, choose one that’s meant for a larger breed of dog; that way, your rabbit has more room to run around, and if it is taller, it gives you plenty of space to add shelving.

The Benefits of using a dog crate for a rabbit

There are many benefits of choosing a dog crate for your rabbit rather than a hutch. Dog crates are usually more spacious than rabbit enclosures and can be transformed easily into the perfect home. 

  • Taller which allows you to add shelves
  • Can be easily transformed into the perfect home with a bit of DIY
  • Most dog crates fold flat for storage and transport
  • Would be best for indoor use
  • Easy to clean out
  • A cheaper alternative to pet shop cages
  • Customizable
  • Suitable for larger breeds of rabbit

DIY Tips 

The AmazonBasics Single-Door Folding Metal Dog Crate would make the perfect home for a bunny. It’s available in various sizes, but the largest would be best, especially if you’re thinking of getting more then one rabbit. This dog crate is sturdy and adaptable. 

Alternatively, you may like to buy a cat playpen from Amazon as it already has shelves; all you need to do is add ramps to make it suitable for a rabbit or other small animals. This cage is nice and tall and perfect if you want to create an enclosure spread over four floors. If you choose a very tall cage, make sure that it’s safe for your rabbit. You may want to create an enclosed ramp or a ramp with edges so that your rabbit can’t fall from it. 

Here are some DIY tips that will help you create the perfect home for your bunny using a dog crate.

Tip #1: Planning

It’s best to plan how you want your pets’ home to look before you go out and buy a dog crate. Having an idea in mind will allow you to get one that’s the correct size and is right for your home and new rabbit. Also, plan where you’re going to put the shelves and what type of materials you’ll need for the floor. That way, you’ll have everything you need before you start your project. 

Tip #2: Size

Dog crates are available in a selection of shapes and sizes. It’s a good idea to get the largest dog crate available, choose one designed for a large breed of dog, such as a German Shepherd. A larger crate will provide your rabbit with plenty of living space and room to run around. 

A crate designed for a large breed will also be taller, which allows you to put in shelving or an extra floor to create a multi-layered cage. Creating a multi-layered cage is particularly useful if you’re thinking of keeping more than one rabbit. 

Large dog crates usually measure about 48″ long by 30″ wide by 36″ high (120cm by 76cm by 90cm). A crate of this size is perfect for a rabbit. 

Tip #3: New versus Used (Secondhand)

Dog crates of all sizes are widely available and can be purchased easily from Amazon or similar online stores. The benefit of buying a new dog crate is that you’ll be able to measure the space that you have available in your home and then get one that’s the correct size. You’ll also be able to easily order one straight away, rather than having to trawl online auction sites or go to car boot sales. 

You may decide that second-hand is best, and this will also save you some money. Many second-hand dog crates are available as people often only use their dog cage while training their puppies. Once the dog grows up, they don’t use the crate anymore. You’ll often see dog crates for sale in second-hand shops, online auctions, or yard sales.

Tip #4: Disinfect before use

If you decide to buy second hand, make sure that you clean the dog crate adequately before transforming it into a rabbit home. Clean the crate with a disinfectant suitable for use with animals; these types of products will be available from your local pet shop. 

Tip #5: Consider the bar spacing

The bar spacing will also vary slightly on dog crates. It’s essential to pay attention to this, especially if you have a smaller breed of rabbit or plan to buy a baby rabbit. If your dog crate has spaces that are too wide, your rabbit could escape. Another problem is that a rabbit could get their head stuck between bars if the gaps are too wide. 

This problem can be rectified easily by covering the bars with a wire mesh, which will stop the rabbit from putting its head through the bars. If you have baby rabbits, you may then remove the mesh in the future when they’ve grown a bit. 

Mesh can be purchased from DIY stores and is very easy to attach to the cage using cable ties. Ensure that there are no sharp edges or pieces of wire that your rabbit could hurt itself on. 

Tip #6: Door Position

Different dog crate brands will have different door positions. In general, crates either have their door on the short or long side. Some crates have a door on each side for easy access. 

Before deciding which type of crate you need, you should consider where you will position the crate. You’ll need to have easy access to your rabbit’s home to quickly let it out to play, feed him, and clean the cage out. 

For easy access, choose a crate with a door that’s positioned on the long side. Having a dog crate with a door on the long side will give you better access to the cage to reach your rabbit and clean the entire create easily.

Tip #7: Choose the flooring material

Dog crates usually come with either a metal or plastic tray at the bottom that provides a solid floor for your rabbit’s home. You can choose either plastic or metal as both are fine for rabbits.  

Before making this decision, there are a few things to consider; plastic is often best as it will make less noise when your rabbit runs around or throws stuff about. It is also less slippy when wet. The downside of a plastic tray is that your rabbit could gnaw at it. As rabbits are rodents that have continually growing teeth, they will continuously chew on things. It’s not a good idea for a rabbit to chew on plastic as this can create small beads that could block their intestine. 

A metal tray may be safer for your pet. If you find that it’s noisy, you can cover it with a newspaper, straw, or a fleece blanket. Some dog crates have wire covering the floor, which isn’t suitable for rabbits as they could get their paws stuck in the gaps. If you have a crate with a wire floor, this will either need to be removed or could be covered.  

Tip #8: Add depth to the floor

The main problem with using a dog crate as a rabbit cage is the depth of the tray. The trays on dog cages are likely to be very shallow compared to enclosures specifically designed for rabbits. Most dog crates have a tray that is about an inch deep, which doesn’t work very well for containing hay and rabbit litter. A shallow tray will result in more of a mess on the floor outside the crate. Rabbits are also known to throwing things around. Unless you want to be continually cleaning up after your pet, you’ll need to modify the cage’s flooring to create greater depth that will contain the mess more efficiently. 

You can make a frame to surround the base of your rabbit’s cage using wood, acrylic plastic sheeting, or corrugated plastic. Wood is often the best solution as it will be safer if your rabbit starts to chew the cage’s side. Another option would be to use a deep tray, such as a storage box, and put this inside the crate to contain the litter and bedding. These tips will help to reduce the mess made by your rabbit.

Tip #9: Create a shelf

If you choose a large dog crate with extra height, you can create a shelf by putting pieces of wood through the cage to support a wooden board. Ensure that any shelf you build is stable, doesn’t have sharp edges, and is made from wood that’s safe for your pet. 

Remember that rabbit will chew everything, so make the side of the shelf from untreated softwoods. Plywood contains glue and has often been treated with substances that will be toxic to rabbits. It’s ok to use these woods for the shelf, but make sure the edging is built from safe wood. 

A good tip when making a shelf is first building a crossbar which the shelf will then be attached to. This can be made from long, thin pieces of wood. You can cut small grooves in the crossbars’ ends, which will allow them to sit over the cage’s bars. This will stop the shelf from slipping, which could cause injury to your rabbit. Ensure that the grooves are all cut at the same depth as this will make the shelf level.

After making and fitting the crossbar, you can put a piece of wood on top to make the shelf. Wood can be purchased from your local hardware store and can often be cut to the right size for you. If you’re cutting the wood yourself, always wear a face mask and goggles to avoid breathing in sawdust. Make an edge for the shelf by nailing on a small piece of untreated softwood. Ensure that you sand all the edges so that there is nothing sharp that could injure your bunny. 

If building a shelf proves too tricky, you can buy a ready-made shelf from Amazon or a local pet shop that can attach to your cage’s corner. Shelving such as this platform is made from natural wood, which is safe for your pet to gnaw, as it’s made from pine wood. You may also like to buy a rabbit hammock, as this will provide extra space for your pet. 

Tip #10: Build a ramp

To build a ramp for your rabbit, you’ll need a thin piece of wood, which is about eight to ten inches wide and some beading to make steps. Attach the ramp to the shelf at an angle of about 45 degrees. About 45 degrees is a good angle, as it means that the ramp won’t take up too much room. It also won’t be too steep for your rabbits. 

You’ll also need to cut the ramp’s top edge at an angle so that it fits snuggly against the shelf. Make sure no gaps or pieces are sticking up as this could be dangerous for your bunny. 

Cut the beading into small length wide enough for the ramp. It’s a good idea to make the steps a few millimeters narrower than the ramp at each side. You can nail the beading to the ramp about four inches apart. Sand the beading before attaching them with small nails or with glue. It’s a good idea to use hardwood beading, which is flat on one side and rounded on the other, as this is the right shape for steps. 

Tip #11: Encourage your pets to go upstairs

It may take a little while for your rabbits to get used to their new home and go up to the second floor; this seems to be particularly true for baby rabbits. If you find that your pets live on just one level, put treats at regular intervals on the ramp steps, encouraging them to explore the second floor. Once they get used to their no home, your pets will likely go up and down their ramp regularly. 

Tip #12: Add a den

If you find that building a shelf is too challenging, you could add a wooden box or a cat carrier to your dog crate. You’ll then be able to attach a piece of wood to the top of this, ensuring that it’s secure. Then make a ramp so that your rabbits can climb on top. A cat carrier is an excellent option as it allows you to create a den for your rabbit as well as an extra floor. 


As you can see with a little thought and a bit of modification, a dog crate can be transformed into a fantastic home for a rabbit. Get creative and build a home that is spacious and has everything your pet needs. Be sure to include a den, shelving, and ramp so that your rabbit has different areas to play and explore. A den is crucial as it will help make your rabbit feel secure and give it somewhere to hide if it needs to. 

Using a dog crate will allow you to build an enclosure that is functional and more spacious then ready-made cages that are available in the pet shops. Ensure that any changes you make to the dog crate are safe for your rabbit and that they won’t be able to fall from a height. 

Sours: https://www.crittersaplenty.com/can-a-rabbit-live-in-a-dog-crate/

Similar news:

How To Build an Indoor Bunny Cage A 3-level rabbit condo with open top and bottom

Mopsy's 9 simple steps to build a comfortable and roomy bunny condo

There are many different bunny cages on the market. Some are roomy with solid bottoms; others are tight with wire bottoms that can injure a rabbit's foot. Mopsy* prefers a high quality multi-level condo, like the ones made by Leith Petwerks, or a lovingly crafted home-built condo, which he'll show you how to make now.


Materials Needed

  • 2 boxes of wire storage cubes (a typical condo requires 30 panels)
  • 2 packs of 100 Cable Ties
  • Plywood to make the levels (not shown in picture)
    • Width: 28" wide each to extend the entire width of the side wall
    • Length: Mopsy chose the lower level to be 13" long and the upper 24" long, but you can choose differently
  • 4 wooden dowels (only two shown in picture)
    • Diameter: 11/8"
    • Length: Depends on the layout; Mopsy's required two 46" and two 32" dowels
  • 3 small spring clamps
  • a bun

* Sadly, Mopsy is no longer with us, but his spirit, enthusiasm, and sound building advice live on.

A Wall

Step 1: Make two large walls

Lay out the wall on the floor, making sure that the grid portions of all of them are the same side up. Secure with cable ties. Don't pull the cable ties fully tight just yet; leave a slight give to them (see photo below). You will tighten them later. Repeat to make the second wall.

Although Mopsy has no difficulty consuming a good novel—or lamp cord for that matter—like most rabbits, he has no interest in cable ties. To be safe, you can put a cable tie onto your rabbit's current dwelling place as a test. If it turns out to be scrumptious, try switching colors (try black) or use another kind of fastener.


Side Wall

Step 2: Make two side walls

Secure the grids together with cable ties as in step #1. Repeat to make the second side wall.

Step 3: Connect the four walls together

After you use the cable ties to connect the four walls together at each square grid, you will find that you can manipulate the cage to be various shapes, e.g. triangle, pentagon, etc. Decide on the shape that you want at this time. Mopsy chose a rectangle.


Step 4: Add dowels

Slip two dowels through the grids along the length of the cage. The dowels will prevent the bun's shelves from falling through. Where you put them depends on the shelf layout and door location. Mopsy contemplated a larger lower level and high door, but ended up settling on the layout shown in step 9.

Plywood on Dowels

Step 5: Add plywood for shelf

Place the plywood on top of the dowels. Bunny is optional at this stage.

Mopsy likes to hop between levels in the condo but doesn't care to go up, over a wall, and then back down all in one jump. Since your rabbit is likely similar, your condo won't need a top if you plan your floor and wall heights with surrounding furniture in mind.

Clip Cable Ties

Step 6: Tighten and clip cable tie strands

Secure Dowels

Step 7: Secure dowels to cage with cable ties

You're almost done. If you want, take a moment to relax with a snack. Mopsy recommends the handle of a wicker basket.

Clip Cable Ties

Step 8: Clip off cable ties around the door opening

Use the small spring to clasp the door shut. It's okay. Mopsy and Julius get along.

Finished Cage

Step 9: Furnish the condo

For better traction, Mopsy likes cushioned-surface solid non-adhesive shelf liner. His paws like the softness, and the room-service crew likes the water resistance. Carpet works, too, but only on levels that tend to stay clean.

Congratulations! You will have a happy rabbit in a spacious, homemade condo for under $60! Remember to give your bunny plenty of exercise outside his cage in a rabbit-proof room. Mopsy says he loves to do binkies (happy jumps) in the living room.

Hay Tray

Optional luxury addition: Hay tray

If your rabbit's appetite is on the messy side like Mopsy's, you may want to consider a hay tray designed to keep your rabbit (and his droppings) in the rabbit zone and the hay in the hay zone. Place a small litter pan inside a high-walled plastic container. In the remaining space, place inch-thick boards with protruding bolts (about 6 inches long and ¼ inch or more in diameter, spaced every 3 to 4 inches). The bolts won't hurt a rabbit, but they aren't comfortable, either, so the hay can go on the boards while the rabbit stays in the litter pan.

Fill the litter pan about an inch deep with an absorbent material such as hardwood fuel pellets. Mopsy sits right on the pellets while he eats. When the litter pan gets soiled, empty it into a compost bin and refill with new hardwood fuel pellets. You'll have a tidy condo and a tidy bun.

Hay Tray

Another condo luxury: Floor and casters

Mopsy's residence was first located in a room with a wood floor, which meant that the condo didn't need its own floor, just a covering like one suggested in step 9. Relocation to a carpeted room, however, quickly led to hay-cleaning realities that called for a more self-contained solution.

If your condo needs its own floor, one option is to buy a large tray, such as the Petco 800 Series Dog Crate Replacement Tray. If you want wheels or an exact size, another option is to make your own floor: Cut a piece of plywood to the shape of your condo and nail baseboard molding around the edges. This forms a large tray for the storage cubes to rest within. To ease cleaning behind the condo, screw caster wheels to the bottom of the plywood—also good for bunny rides.

Sours: https://breyfamily.net/bunnycage

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