E46 heater hose replacement

E46 heater hose replacement DEFAULT
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  1. ,  PM#1
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    Replacing M54B30 Heater/Coolant Pipes; Lessons Learned

    I'm not % done with this job yet, but I wanted to get a few notes down before I finish so that I don't forget these points. I can confirm that you can replace both of these pipes with the intake manifold in place. However:

    Lesson 1: Don't do it this way. Pull the intake manifold. I didn't have the parts on hand that I would need in order to pull and reinstall the manifold, but I did have the time to figure out how to do it this way, so I just went ahead and did it. Should you choose to ignore this advice, here are some other things I learned. (Some of this may be useful even if you decide to pull the manifold. Which you should do.)

    Lesson 2: You will need to pull the oil filter housing, so make sure you have a replacement gasket for that on hand.

    Lesson 3: The pipes will be very difficult to remove (mine were difficult to remove, and (I think) every single thread I read about this process mentioned difficulty in getting these to slide out of their homes. Penetrating lube was helpful here. Spray a bit into the ends where the o rings are; then tug on them to try and get them out; spray more; tug and wiggle them around; spray more; repeat. This took a while. I used a screwdriver to help pry them out. Be sure you aren't levering against something else that could be damaged.

    Lesson 4: Once they are removed, inspect the end of the pipe to make sure that all of the plastic was removed. I thought the whole pipe came out on both of mine, but there was actually still a small ring of plastic that had remained stuck in the engine. Carefully remove anything that didn't come out with the rest of the pipe. This will most likely be a complete pain.

    Lesson 5: Be prepared to remove a layer of crust that is left behind in the mounting surface for the pipe. I don't know this for sure, but I imagine that if this is left behind, it would prevent the o-rings from seating properly for one reason or another. I used grit sandpaper to sand this all down without leaving any deep gouges in the metal. It all felt smooth when I was done, even though the metal still had spots where it was discolored with crust-color. When I reinstalled my pipes, they slid in pretty smoothly with just a bit of water to help lubricate them.

    Lesson 6: If you decide to try and replace these without pulling the manifold (which you shouldn't), be sure to have something like this on hand: http://www.harborfreight.com/High-Rederhtml . I couldn't have done this job if I didn't have this to help me see what I was doing under the manifold.

    Lesson 7: This is a good image of the two pipes (notice the zip ties holding the wires to what I think are the knock sensorsthese zip ties will obviously need to be removed if you want to pull the pipes, and might be hard to see if you stupidly decide to not pull the intake manifold):




    Be sure to install the lower pipe first. The pipes will interfere with each other if you install the upper pipe first, and the lower pipe will have to get jammed in at an angle to get around the upper one. So, make sure to install the lower pipe first. I made a mental note of this interference when I was pulling the pipes.




    Venting: I love this car, and am a very happy ownerbut I can't for the life of me fathom why BMW would use a plastic pipe in this application. My econobox old Subaru had a somewhat similar set up, and even that had a metal pipe. For every instance of solid German engineering I find on this car, I find something else that has been completely mickey moused (like these pipes), or has been designed as a complete rat's nest (like the underside of the intake manifold). /rant
    Z3 Coupe--Sterling Gray/Sunroof Delete/5MT

  2. ,  PM#2
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    Is size and space the only reason why we can't use the metal ones from previous cars?
    -Abel

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  3. ,  PM#3
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    are you replacing all the rubber intake tubing and ccv with pipes while everything is out?

  4. ,  PM#4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Power 04View Post
    Is size and space the only reason why we can't use the metal ones from previous cars?

    The cooling system is a totally different design. The flow of the coolant is different. Very different.


    Spark plugs used to last maybe 6K miles. Now they go K plus. No one ever comments on this, they just bitch that plugs cost $6 rather than $2.


    /.randy

  5. ,  PM#5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfrkwView Post
    The cooling system is a totally different design. The flow of the coolant is different. Very different.


    Spark plugs used to last maybe 6K miles. Now they go K plus. No one ever comments on this, they just bitch that plugs cost $6 rather than $2.
    Oh yes, that's right, I remember you mentioning that the flow is different. Makes sense.
    -Abel

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  6. ,  PM#6
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    Thank you for the write-up, excellent work. Link saved for future reference.
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  7. ,  PM#7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZoOView Post
    are you replacing all the rubber intake tubing and ccv with pipes while everything is out?

    That was done a few months ago. Before I learned about the existence of these absurd plastic pipes. Which is why I'm now repeating almost all of that work.
    Z3 Coupe--Sterling Gray/Sunroof Delete/5MT

  8. ,  PM#8
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    I'm learning some of my own lessons

    Doing a complete hose job. It's not very pretty. I had to fight to get every hose off. Even the little eighth inch hose had to be cut out. I'm not surprised. The hoses are 18 years old

  9. ,  PM#9
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    I did this some time back. One of the pipes were leaking. Ended up in

    1) Replacing
    Both pipes
    Some hoses going to heater core
    All gaskets (intake, ICV),
    O-Rings (for fuel injector), since it is removed during the intake manifold removal
    Vacuum lines
    OFHG
    Coolant sensor (since it had more than k on it)
    CVV and its hoses

    2) Cleaned the
    Alternator vent
    Throttle body
    Side of the engine which was opened.

    One of the biggest projects i did.

  10. ,  PM#10
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    I had no idea replacing all the coolant hoses would be such a big job. Even with the intake manifold removed the heater core hoses put up a fight.
    The head gasket can wait for the winter

  11. ,  PM#11
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    I can't believe people do this with the manifold in place It's so easy to remove!
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  12. ,  PM#12
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    I don't see how its possible.

  13. ,  PM#13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim95M3View Post
    I can't believe people do this with the manifold in place It's so easy to remove!

    the M/S52, yes. Have you ever done a M52TU? It's even worse than a M


    /.randy

  14. ,  PM#14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfrkwView Post
    the M/S52, yes. Have you ever done a M52TU? It's even worse than a M
    Having a M52TU with k miles it sounds like: don't think twice, pull the manifold, don't even think about trying to do it with it in place

  15. ,  PM#15
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    There are sections of vacuum line and vacuum caps under the manifold that you will never find with it in place. The CCV is cake once the manifold is upside down in the driveway. The water pipes are right there. Heater hoses are a lot easier, though getting to the core clamps is still a challenge. And you can actually see the starter.

    How big a snowball do you want?

    When I first started doing this job as a package a few years ago, the pipes had to be ordered in. Now my local Worldpac keeps six of each in stock.


    /.randy

  16. ,  PM#16
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    Screen Shot at PM.jpgScreen Shot at PM.jpg

    Just finished this job last week on my S Did the 3 heater-related hoses and 2 throttle body hoses. (Other hoses are more accessible and were done a few years ago). None of the 16 year old hoses showed obvious problems, but it's for sure time to change them. Also changed the CCV components, motor mounts, and did a preventive cam sensor replacement (probably not necessary) for good measure. Sent off the injectors for cleaning/testing also. Intake valves were impressively clean though. (I did cover the ports after taking pics).

    I was thinking of doing the vanos seal replacement at the same time, but decided to delay that due to no symptoms yet, plus that just adds more potential error/failure points if things don't work quite right after putting it all back together.

    These engines look pretty uncluttered from the top. It's all hidden under the manifold.

    - - - Updated - - -

    One thing that might be of interest for those draining coolant from multiple locations under the engine is a LARGE drain pan to keep garage floors etc. clean. I looked for quite a while on Amazon and found what is intended to be a pan under a washing machine. Adequately flexible/tough so it won't crack easily and will hold quite a few gallons. http://www.amazon.com/CamcoWa/dp/BPS8J64 (Free prime shipping toothey are probably losing money on that deal based on the very large box.)Screen Shot at PM.jpg

    There was still some splashing out of the pan, but not a lot. A drain pipe or hose could even be rigged up with the included fitting, but I didn't bother with that.

  17. ,  AM#17
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    Washing machine pan. What a great idea.

  18. ,  AM#18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfrkwView Post
    the M/S52, yes. Have you ever done a M52TU? It's even worse than a M
    I've done several M52TU's and M54's. I can understand doing these hoses on the M/S52's with the manifold in place But replacing the hard pipes on the M52TU or M54 with the mani in place, AND trying to clean all the leftover crap out of the holes? No thanks.
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  19. ,  PM#19
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    I'm wondering if these pipes are even worth replacing? I removed the intake manifold to see if anything was in a bad condition.
    The pipes appear in great shape, no cracks or leaks. I wonder if they even too to be replaced at all?
    All the hoses look good as well

  20. ,  AM#20
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    If you're already there, replace them IMO. They always look fine from the outside. They rot at the ends where they meet the block.

    Mileage? Mine were gone at kends resembled hard peanut butter texture and actually did leak. Of course I found the leak after I swapped my TU manifold with an M54 version.

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    Last edited by s8ilver; at AM.
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  21. ,  AM#21
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  22. ,  AM#22
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    The pipes rot from the inside out. You're not going to get a good indication on the health of those pipes without pulling them.

  23. ,  PM#23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchreierView Post
    The pipes rot from the inside out. You're not going to get a good indication on the health of those pipes without pulling them.
    Look at Post #10 here:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/snstall-problem
    The plastic pipes do not rot; they become brittle and break or disintegrate, either spontaneously or when pulled on for removal.
    What can rot (corrode) is the aluminum head the pipes fit into, as shown in the post.
    Last edited by Vintage42; at PM.
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BMW Coolant & Radiator Hoses for BMW 3 Series E46 ()

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We offer replacement hoses from several OE brands that we trust, along with performance silicone upgrades for those who want increased wear resistance compared to factory rubber.

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This is the Genuine BMW plastic heater inlet pipe that connects the cylinder head to the heater inlet on cars with the M52 or M54 engine.The plastic on this hose becomes brittle over time and eventually leads to failure.

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Thread: How to reach/replace heater hoses?

I just replaced all of the hoses on my ix, which is the same engine-wise as your car you can do it yourself, WITHOUT taking off the intake manifold.

First tip, jack the car up some, so you don't have to bend over so much, for you'll be bent over it for a while the difficult ones are the ones way in the back. You need to release the bracket that holds all the engine wiring to the engine way down under the intake manifold, and pull those back and forth to get as much slack as you can in the wires. Also, I released all of the wire ties that were holding the wiring along the back of the engine compartment pull those out of place too. It was physically a challenge, to get your hands in there at one point I was sitting on the engine but mechanically, it is only a hose clamp. It just takes tons of patience.

BavAuto sells a bendy tool for this purpose, to get to those back ones. I was able to do it with a long screwdriver, and also universal joint on a 1/4 drive ratchet.

One thing to keep in mind, when you put them back on make sure you position the hose clamps so that NEXT time you have a better angle on each one.

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Hose replacement heater e46

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HPS HEATER HOSE INSTALL BMW E46

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