Weaving dish towels on a rigid heddle loom

Weaving dish towels on a rigid heddle loom DEFAULT

Rigid Heddle "Colour and Weave" Towels by Ali Hurlburt - PDF Pattern Only

This is the perfect rigid heddle project for weavers starting to use cotton. Cotton can be more challenging to weave with than wool because it has less stretch. This pattern is a great way to dip your toes in and get a feel for all the amazing things cotton can do. 

These towels get progressively more complex with their colour interactions. We recommend you start with the most simple towel, and progress towards the most challenging one. In the image to the left, the progression is from left to right. The patterns will be displayed in that order in this handout. 

Designed and woven by Alison Hurlburt, these towels brighten up any kitchen. Happy weaving!

To use this pattern you will need access to a rigid heddle loom (or any loom with two shafts) and a 10 dent reed with a width of at least 15".  

Difficulty: Beginner

This is a PFD Download only, Check out the full kits HERE

Sours: https://gathertextiles.com/products/rigid-heddle-colour-and-weave-towels-by-ali-hurlburt-pdf-pattern-only

Waffle weave is usually woven on four or more shafts but you can make these smart and useful towels on your rigid heddle loom with Ashford Yoga Yarn. This yarn is so easy to weave - the best of both worlds - the strength and elasticity of nylon and the natural comfort and beauty of cotton! A great gift idea!

This pattern, by Kurt Payne of Auckland New Zealand was featured in Issue 31 of The Wheel magazine and will be in the Holiday Edition of Little Looms. There is nothing better than hand woven tea towels - for yourself or to give as gifts and waffle weave gives you that little extra something special! I do hope you will try this pattern out. 

Happy weaving!


Waffle weave tea towels on a Rigid Heddle Loom

Size: Makes 3 towels measuring 42 x 68cm (16½ x 27ins)
Weave structure: Waffle weave

You will need:
Loom: 50cm (20ins) or wider rigid heddle with second heddle
Reed: 2 x 50/10cm (2 x 12.5dpi)
Warp yarn: Ashford Yoga yarn #42 Honeysuckle 100gm, #54 Freesia 100gm 
Weft yarn: Ashford Yoga yarn #42 Honeysuckle 100gm, #54 Freesia 100gm
Other: Waste yarn for header and ties, sewing machine and thread to match your towels

Here’s how:
Total warp ends: 454 (yarn is used doubled throughout)
Total warp length: 2.85m (3yds)
Width in reed: 45.5cm (18ins)

Using the direct warping method, warp the back reed first working from the right to left. This first loop in a slot, will be one of the floating selvedges.  Continue warping following the diagram carefully. The yarn will be doubled through the slots and eyes. The pattern is a 10 double thread repeat. Click here to download printable PDF draft.
Finish with the final doubled warp thread loop through a slot to make the other floating selvedge.
Wind on your warp, placing cardboard warp sticks at regular intervals.
Place the front reed in the neutral position, starting from the right, pull the first loop through the slot directly in front (floating selvedge). Follow the diagram for the rest of the front reed threading.
Hint: After every repeat of 10 warp loops, hook a loop of waste yarn around the finished group when you are sure it is perfect. This makes it easier to count back and check your threading later.
Tie onto the front warp stick, either directly or leash on.

It is important to use a selvedge because the pattern sometimes requires you to weave two picks in the same shed. When weaving always go over the selvedge thread as you take the shuttle into the shed and come out under the selvedge thread on the other side.
For headers at each end of the warp, use the following sequence using waste yarn:
Back reed up, weave one row, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Back reed down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
For each towel weave 75cm (29½ins) in Yoga yarn doubled. Use two ends of the same or different coloured yarns, changing colours for stripes as desired.
Follow this sequence for the waffle weave:
Back reed down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Front reed down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Front reed down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Back reed down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Back reed up, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Both reeds down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Both reeds down, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed
Back reed up, weave, return to neutral and beat with the front reed 
There is no need to leave a gap between towels, just continue weaving.

Remove weaving from the loom.
Secure the ends of each towel by sewing a narrow zigzag stitch along each edge to be cut.
Cut each towel off close to the stitching.
Fold each end over 6mm (¼in) then 12.5mm (½in) to form a hem then edge stitch in place.
Finish with a warm wash then trim any loose threads close to the fabric surface.

To choose your yoga yarn colour combinations click here!

Sours: https://www.ashford.co.nz/blog/double-heddle-waffle-weave-kitchen-towels
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How to Weave Great Towels with a Rigid-Heddle Loom

There persists a myth about rigid-heddle looms: that while they’re great for weaving scarves and pieces with thick knitting and fashion yarns, one can’t weave fine fabrics using traditional weaving yarns on them. Fortunately for us all, weavers the world around are proving this false by weaving beautiful, fine fabrics on these versatile little looms. Susan E. Horton is one such weaver.

Susan began weaving around twenty years ago on a multi-shaft loom, and through the years, she has made a name for herself in the weaving community with her keen eye for color and technical prowess. In 2013, Susan was asked to teach a class on weaving with the rigid-heddle loom. She agreed, even though there was one problem: she had never actually used one before. She borrowed one from her guild, taught herself using videos, and was instantly smitten. “For me it’s the flexibility—the ease of it,” Susan explains. “You have so much less time invested in the beginning start-up, more freedom for experimentation—I will even sample things that I don’t think will work just to see what will happen.”

Go-To Cotton Yarn: 8/2

One of those experiments included designing and weaving towels using traditional weaving yarns. “I wanted to see what its capabilities were,” Susan said. “It bugged me that no one ever seemed to use weaving yarns on the rigid-heddle loom. I have this whole closet full of weaving yarns. Why can’t I use some of it?” Since those first experiments, Susan has designed and woven many towels on the rigid-heddle loom and has plenty of advice for other weavers who wish to do the same.

Jodi Ybarra’s Down by the Lake Towels use 8/2 cotton doubled in the warp and weft.

Jodi Ybarra’s Down by the Lake Towels use 8/2 cotton doubled in the warp and weft.

One of the most important aspects of any weaving project is picking the right yarn. Susan prefers 8/2 cotton, a weaving yarn commonly used for towels, napkins, and other table linens. She loves 8/2 cotton because it’s durable, absorbent, and inexpensive, and comes in a rainbow of colors. It’s a finer yarn and is typically sett at 18 to 24 ends per inch, quite a bit higher than most rigid-heddle reeds. Getting the sett right for towels is important: if the sett is too high, the towels will be dense, stiff, and less absorbent; if the sett is too loose, the fabric will have holes and threads that move around and can get easily caught (also known as “sleazy” fabric).

Susan gets past the problem of sett by using a trick she learned from a friend and fellow weaver: she uses two threads of 8/2 cotton in each slot and hole of a 12-dent reed to get a sett of 24 ends per inch. She says that although she has only tried this with 8/2 cotton, she thinks an 8/2 or 22/2 cottolin would also work at this same sett and could even be paired with 8/2 cotton.

For the weft, rather than doubling up the 8/2 cotton, Susan often uses a single thread. This not only gives her a better hand, it also lets her create bold stripes in the warp that would normally be obscured when weaving balanced plain weave. For those who want to weave a color-and-weave pattern that requires a balanced sett, doubling up the 8/2 cotton in the weft works just fine, too. The fabric will be slightly denser, but not too much.

Since publication of this article inEasy Weaving with Little Looms 2016, _Susan E. Horton has taken on the post of editor of Handwoven.


Susan’s Towel Tips

  • Warp: 8/2 cotton, doubled in 12-dent reed
  • Single strand for weft
  • Keep floats short (¼" or less)
  • It’s all about the ends
  • Of course—sample!
Sours: https://handwovenmagazine.com/towels-rigid-heddle-loom/

Rigid Heddle Dish Towels Pattern

rigid heddle dish towels pattern

About the Rigid Heddle Dish Towels Pattern

If you're just getting started on a rigid heddle loom, or are simply looking for a quick project you can weave in a weekend, these rigid heddle dish towels using our organic cotton are just what you need. Although this pattern was designed with beginner rigid heddle loom weavers in mind, it can easily be made on a 4-shaft loom too. The Rigid Heddle Dish Towels are woven with three colors of Beam Organic Cotton, a soft, hardy, 100% USA-made cotton yarn perfect for weaving dish towels, home textiles, apparel, and more. Designed by Sarah Resnick.

Download the Free Pattern
rigid heddle dish towels pattern woven with beam organic cotton

Weaving Yarn Needed for Rigid Heddle Dish Towels

Weaver Project Notes

How to Weave the Dish Towels on a Rigid Heddle Loom

Warp Yarn

  • Color A = Natural
  • Color B = Lemon
  • Color C = Dandelion
Warp Color Order:Warp the loom using your preferred method for a total of 216 ends, 2.5 yards (90”) long following the warp chart. Center for a weaving width of 18” and sley 1 end per hole and slot in a 12 or 12.5 dent reed.
  • 36 ends Color A 
  • 6 ends Color B
  • 24 ends Color C
  • 6 ends Color B
  • 72 ends Color A
  • 6 ends Color B
  • 24 ends Color C
  • 6 ends Color B
  • 36 ends Color A 

Weft Yarn

Weft Color Order:  Weave the first towel with Yarn B and the second towel with Yarn C. Each towel should measure 26” long in loom. Weave with scrap yarn for 1” in between the towels. 

How to Wet Finish the Rigid Heddle Dish Towels

  1. Zig zag stitch the unfinished edges.
  2. Machine wash cold and hang to dry or tumble dry low.
  3. Cut the towels apart at the center of the scrap yarn divider.
  4. Finish with a hand or machine sewn hem - if this is your first hem, check out our tutorial on hemming handwoven fabric.
rigid heddle dish towels

Adaptation to Weave Dish Towels on A Multi-Shaft Loom

On a 4-shaft loom, you can thread your project for plain weave. This means warping your yarn 1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4 across the width of your warp. Then thread a 12-dent reed with one yarn strand per dent. Follow the weft color order and the rest of the project pattern as written above.

What to Weave Next

Featured Rigid Heddle Loom Patterns

Tone on Tone Scarf Pattern for Rigid Heddle LoomsTone on Tone Scarf
Get the Pattern or Kit

Color Field Scarf Weaving Pattern for Rigid Heddle Looms
Color Field Scarf
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Confetti Runner Weaving Pattern for Rigid Heddle Looms

Confetti Runner
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Resources and Tutorials for Rigid Heddle Weavers

Whether you're a beginner or an expert, we've compiled a list of our most helpful tutorials and guides for rigid heddle weaving.

About the Designer

Sarah Resnick is the Founder of Gist Yarn. She learned how to weave in Toronto in 2009, and was hauling a loom from Craigslist up to her apartment two months later...she’s never looked back since! Sarah manages Gist Yarn’s finances, works to keep our team happy and thriving, and builds partnerships with mills and dyehouses to bring new lines of yarn to life. 

You might also like:

Sours: https://www.gistyarn.com/blogs/journal/beginner-cotton-towels

Rigid heddle loom weaving towels dish a on

One of the best aspects of being a weaver is working with cool fibers.  By “cool” I mean, cotton, linen, hemp, and other cellulose fibers. During the hot summer months, we need not have a pile of wool on our laps or run it through our fingers. Warp your loom with some lovely cellulose and weave yourself a set of towels during your summer vacation. Here are my best tips for tackling the towel.

Choose Your Fiber Wisely

It is tempting to grab that inexpensive bulky cotton off the big box store shelf, but be warned that not all cottons are alike—some are great and some will fade and shred. To test the yarn, take a little bit in your hands and scratch your thumbnail back and forth across the yarn and see what happens. If little fibers easily start sluffing off, this is what is going to happen with repeated washings. Easily is the operative word, all short-stapled fibers, such as cotton, will sluff a little bit, but they shouldn’t do so excessively. Please be respectful of your yarn seller, a good shop owner should be able to direct you toward the best yarns to use for your project. Cotton likes to be spun fine, tight, and smooth. The most hardwearing bulky cottons are ones made of multiple plies of fine, tight, and smooth singles.

For more info on the different kinds of cotton available to weavers, check out one of my most popular blog posts on the different types of cotton.  Linen is also an awesome choice for heirloom quality towels, but it can be tricky. My most recent Get Warped column in Knitty is packed with tips on weaving with linen.


Use a Guide

It is a big bummer to weave off a set of towels only to have them end up in different sizes. To weave multiple objects of the same size, use a paper guide. To make a guide, cut a narrow piece of paper the length of your project. I save the strips of paper left from trimming kraft paper to size for packing my warp. Pin the guide to your work as you weave, starting and ending according to the guide.

Paper Guide

Make Friends with Long Warps

I love putting on a long warps and weaving off multiple towels, making each one slightly different from the next. If you are using the direct method, you can use a warping board or other peg system to consolidate a long warp so that it isn’t strung across the room. Please note, I’m not exactly using good form in this photo. It is best to line up your warping board with the middle of your loom so your warp isn’t coming to the loom at such a steep angle. This will foreshorten your warp on one side. I find it is easier to use the indirect method for long warps, but it might not be easier for you.

I also recommend that you use a loom wider than your project.  It is tempting to use up every inch of width your loom offers you, but give yourself and your warp some breathing room. When you add packing paper or sticks, you need to leave room for your hands and fingers to work on either side of the warp. No matter how careful you are, if you are working right up to the edge of your loom and you have a long warp, you are going to introduce tension problems.

If you are using fine threads and long warps, tension problems may happen anyway.  It’s not a sign that you are a bad warper, it just comes with the territory.  I keep S-hooks handy to weight pesky threads that become loose while weaving. To weigh the naughty warp end, slip an s-hook over the yarn and let it hang off the back side of the loom.

Cut It Out

If my mistake is more than a few rows back, I cut them out instead of weaving back.  This saves time and wear and tear on my warp. I keep a pair of sharp embroidery scissors and a tapestry needle handy for this reason. With your loom under tension, carefully snip the weft down the middle of the warp. With the weft loops at the selvedges loose with the needle or your fingernails instead of your fingers to keep from pulling on your selvedges too much. Once you have a loop worked free of the edge, then you can pull the weft out with your fingers.

Cut out mistakes


Fringe in towels is almost always a bad idea, it gets ratty over time. Some of that ratty is boho chic, but unless you are using extremely fine high-quality yarn, it is mostly boho bad news.

I love hand hemming hanwovens. I spent all this lovely time with my towels and this gives me the opportunity to spend a little more. I’m often found at knit-ins with my hemming in my lap. I find the look of a hand-sewn hems more appealing than machine sewn, but I perhaps stare at my towels more than most. If you are handy with a sewing machine you can also machine sew, you hems easily.  You may need to fiddle with your stitch length and tension to accommodate the bulkier fabrics.

4-whip stitch

If you are looking for a towel pattern, check out Yarnworker’s two towel patterns or Cotton Clouds towel patterns as part of their kit club—you can also buy them separately.  The Dealer’s Choice towels on the cover of the revised edition of Weaving Made Easy also work up quickly and offer a lot of experimentation with color.

Weave On!


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Categories blog, techniqueTags tips, towelsSours: https://yarnworker.com/tips-for-weaving-the-perfect-towel/
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