Chinese atv no power in forward

Chinese atv no power in forward DEFAULT

EPA, CARB Approved:
This ATV is EPA and CARB approved, it can be registered as an Off-highway vehicle in all 50 States including California (Red Sticker).

Optional 1 Year Extended Warranty:
$99.00. The extended warranty effective as soon as the manufacturer's warranty expires, so your warranty coverage would be a total of 18 months!

80% Assembled:
you will need to put on the wheels, handlebar, bumper, racks etc. Anyone who has some mechanical knowledge can uncrate this quad and get it up and running in couple hours. However, if you do not feel comfortable doing it on your own, you may take it to a professional mechanic and have them get it ready for you,it is your responsibility to make sure that the vehicle is assembled correctly and to pay for any additional fee related to assembly if needed. Negligence and improper assembly will void warranty. Be sure to tighten all bolts, check / replace engine fluids and fully charge battery prior to operation.

Adjustable Throttle to Control the speed for your safety:
An adjustable vertical bolt/nut is mounted on the handlebar to limit how far you can push gas controller. You can slow your ATV down to 10 mph if you want to, or allow the throttle to be pushed all the way forward for 40 mph or anywhere in-between. Your choice.

Full Size Frame

20" and 21" All-Terrain Big Tires with All-black 8" Rims

Extra Large Rear Hydraulic Disc Brake for better stopping power

125cc Air-Cooled 4-stroke, NO need to mix oil and gas!

Semi Automatic 3-Speed with Reverse (no clutch needed)

Solid Chain Driven Axle

Upgraded Suspension:
This quad is equipped with dual swing arms and dual heavy duty coiled spring shocks on front suspension. This upgraded suspension promotes a stable, secure, and very comfortable ride.

Headlights, Central light, Hi/Lo Beams, Taillights, Brake lights

Heavy Duty & Over-sized Protective Front Bumper (new feature)

Large Rear Luggage Rack

Protective Engine Covers All Around (new feature) !

Emergency Shut Off Switch:
This quad comes with shut off switch in case of any emergency. With one press of the button it automatically cuts the engine so the quad will stop right away.

Emergency Teeter Kill Switch:
Also comes with a rear teeter kill switch, with a comfortable string connecting to kids waist, if by chance kids fall, the ATV will immediately stop running. This is another great safety feature in addition to the Remote and Button Kill Switch.

Air Cooled:
The cooling system on this quad is designed to an incredibly high standard. It keeps the engine temperatures level while offering the perfect amount of power for a more reliable engine and quality go kart.

Safety Precautions:
Children should always ride this vehicle with adult supervision, always wear proper safety gear. Buyer agrees to be responsible for any unforeseen accidents that could result in use of our vehicles, regardless of cause. Do not attempt any of the dangerous maneuvers. We assume no responsibility for any property damage or to any person sustaining any injury or death as a result of purchasing or viewing any of the content on this web site.

For safety precautions, be sure to check and tighten all nuts and bolts prior to use. Also, be sure to check for appropriate engine fluid levels to ensure your vehicle is operating under the recommended conditions prior to use.

Displacement: 125cc, 4 Stroke
Horsepower: 8 HP
Cooling System: Air Cooled
Transmission: Semi Automatic with Reverse (3-2-1-N-R)
Drive: Chain
Starter: Electric
Ignition: CDI
Top Speed: Up to 40 MPH (adjustable by using Regulator)
Frame: High Strength Steel
Front SuspensionDual A-Arms w/ Dual Heavy Duty Coiled Spring Shocks
Rear Suspension

Swing Arms w/ Heavy Duty Coiled Spring Shock

Rear BrakeHydraulic Disc
Front BrakeDrum
Front Tires: 21 x 7-8
Rear Tires: 20 x 9.5-8
Lighting: Headlights, Central Light, Tail Light, Hi/Lo Beams, Brake Light
Controls: Keyed Ignition, Headlight Switch, Emergency Shut Off Switch
Weight Capacity 250 Lbs
Net Weight: 286 Lbs
Shipping Weight: 350 Lbs
Fuel Capacity4.2 L
Ground Clearance: 11"
Overall: 65(L) x 42(W) x 45(H) inches
Size of Crate: 59(L) x 32(W) x 33(H) inches
Seat Height: 33"
Wheelbase: 42"
Age Recommendation: 14+
Free: Free Shipping, F/R cargo racks, Manual, Tool kit, Technical support
Government Certifications: EPA, CARB Approved for all 50 States.
Assembly: This Item comes 80% assembled. Be sure to tighten all screws, check for appropriate levels of engine fluid and fully charge battery prior to operation.
Warranty: 6 Months Manufacturer's Parts Warranty
Optional 12 Months Extended Warranty, $99
User Manual: 4-Stroke ATV User Manual
Starting Guide: 4-Stroke ATV starting Guide

Q9 PowerSports USA only provides Technical support from our service technicians to customers who have purchased a machine from our company. Full time PowerSports Service Technicians are expensive and they are here only to help our customers and work in our Service Centers.


If you didn't purchase your machine from us here are some resources.

(1) Call the dealer you purchased from and hope they answer and actually have technicians and support


(2) You could Drop Off your machine at one of our service center to be properly serviced by a service technician


(3)Below is a link for Paid NON-CUSTOMER technical support

Non Customer Technical Support


If you purchased your machine from Q9 PowerSports USA and need technical support, please call our toll free number 1-888-252-9250 and select the tech support option. Be prepare with order information to verify your purchase prior to speaking with one of our service technician.

Warranty Policy

Shipping Policy

Refund Policy



Here is an assembly of helpful troubleshooting and Safety videos that our service technicians put together for the TaoTao Brand Chinese Power Sports machines that we sell and service. ATVs, Four Wheelers, Go karts, Dirt Bikes, Go karts, Mopeds, scooters and enduro motorcycles. For more videos and Product assembly videos check out our YouTube Channel




















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In this post, we’ll have a look at some common causes if your ATV won’t move forward or backward when you put it in gear. Typical components that may need to be addressed to fix this are:

  • Brakes and bearings
  • CVT drive belt and clutches
  • Gear shift mechanism
  • Axles and driveshaft
  • Wet clutch system
  • Electric shift motor or gear position sensor

Are you able to push the bike when in neutral?

I recommend that you start your troubleshooting by making sure all four wheels on the ATV spin freely and that there’s nothing in the driveline preventing it from moving as normal.

To test this, all you need to do is to put the ATV in neutral (N), leave the parking brake off, and try to push forward or backward it by hand. Some of the larger ATVs can be a bit heavy to push, even for an adult, but on a flat smooth surface like asphalt or concrete, you should be able to make it move.

If the wheels spin freely, you know that the driveline and brakes are fine and that the problem is with your gearbox, transmission, or gear shifting mechanism. You may jump straight down to troubleshooting transmission issues.

If you cannot get the wheels to turn no matter how hard you push, the problem may still be with your transmission or gear shifter. But because it is far easier, you should start by looking into the bike’s driveline, brakes, and bearings to ensure there are no issues there.

Check if the wheel bearings are spinning freely and not seized

Wheel bearings may seize up completely if you let them wear too far before having them replaced.

  • Jack the ATV off the ground and put it on jack stands.
  • Check each tire for play. You do this by grabbing the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Wiggle back and forth top to bottom. 
  • If you feel excessive play, your issue may be with your bearing. Worn bearings need to be replaced. 

On solid rear axle racing quads, you should also inspect the carrier bearing as they may break and lock up.

Make sure the brakes are not seized

While you have the wheels off the ground, you should also inspect the brakes.

  • Make sure the parking brake is disengaged. 
  • Remove the tire. You should be able to spin the wheel hub by hand. If not, you can try turning the wheel hub by putting a pry bar between two of the wheel lugs. 
  •  Inspect the brakes. Look for corrosion, dirt, or ice.
    • If you’ve been riding in wet conditions and it has now gotten cold, they may be frozen solid. A hairdryer will thaw them if needed. 
    • Riding in mud may pack your brakes with dirt so that they stick. Proper cleaning should fix your issue. 
    • If your ATV has been sitting for a longer period of time, the brakes may have corroded, preventing them from releasing properly. Corroded brakes can usually be fixed by disassembling, cleaning, and lubing the caliper glide pins and pistons. Service kits that include replacement brake caliper pistons and glide pins are available for most ATVs. In more severe corrosion cases, you may need to replace the complete brake caliper and brake disk for the brakes to disengage properly.

If you still haven’t found a definite indicator that something is wrong with either the wheel hub assembly or brakes, you should isolate them from the rest of the driveline. This way, you don’t waste time troubleshooting parts of the ATV that may be working as normal.

  • Disconnect the driveline and try rotating the wheel hub again. 
  • If the hub is still not moving, you know that something is seized in the hub or brake assembly. Address these areas before moving on to other parts of the bike.

Do you have a stripped or broken driveshaft or axle?

You usually don’t break an axle without noticing. The most common scenario for broken axles is your front axle popping when struggling in a mud hole at full throttle, and the tire suddenly finds traction. “POP,” and the ATV no longer moves.

An axle may strip if it pops out of place. The C-clip that holds it in place may come loose so that the axle starts moving out until just a small portion is still gripping and the splines stip. You will likely hear scraping noises if the axle has been stripped.

When a driveshaft or axle breaks, your bike will no longer pull on the wheel that the stripped or broken axle goes to. The remaining wheels will likely still pull as normal. 

When installing bigger tires, you will add more strain on your bike’s driveline. Consider upgrading your axles to heavy-duty aftermarket parts that don’t break as easily. 

The drive belt is shredded

The drive belt on CVT transmissions may break due to old age, wear, or misuse. An old belt that is pushed hard may explode in an instant, leaving the bike stranded.

If your bike stopped moving instantly, you should remove the belt cover to inspect the belt. You may find your belt in a thousand pieces or just worn so bad that it is slipping.

Related: ATV belt slipping – symptoms and causes

Water has gotten into the drive belt housing

If you get water on the drive belt and CVT clutches, it will break the friction that makes your ATV move. The drive belt housing is sealed and should normally protect the drive belt from splashing water.

But if the cover fasteners are not properly tightened or the seal is not in place, it may not be sealed properly. And if you have been riding in deep water, it may enter the belt housing through the belt housing vents.

Related:16 Steps to Repair an ATV Submerged in Mud or Water

If you suspect that water in the belt housing is your cause, there is a drain plug at the bottom that will drain any water that has entered.

atv belt housing drain plug location

After you have gotten all of the water out, the bike should start moving again. Go gentle for the first few miles so that the belt and clutches can dry completely before applying too much throttle, or the belt will slip, causing premature wear.

When you get back home, it’s a good idea to remove the belt cover to see if you can find the cause of water entering.

In addition to loose bolts and a seal that has popped out of its place, you should look for damage to the casing itself. It is not unusual that the cover gets damaged by hitting rocks or branches.

Are you sure the bike is fully in gear? Gear shift mechanism issues

See if you can hear or feel if the gears inside the transmission are shifting when you put the AVT in gear. The gear shift indicator may indicate that the bike is in gear even if the internals have not shifted completely.

If the shifter feels loose or not to be shifting all the way, it may need adjusting. Try setting the bike in gear with a bit more firm motion than normal. You can even gently hit the lever to make it “pop” into gear.

Do not use excessive force; you are only trying to find out if it needs a bit of convincing to pop into gear. If this helps, you will likely be able to fix your issue by adjusting the gear linkage.

Also, make sure none of the visible components in the gear shifting mechanism have come loose or are broken. Some ATVs use a plastic clip that sometimes pops off. And where the shifter rods connect to the transmission, you will find a bell crank that is well known to strip or crack.

On manual clutch setups, you need to make sure the clutch cable is adjusted correctly.

If all of the externals seem fine, but you can still not make the ATV shift completely, you may have a bent or broken shift fork, broken drive chain, or stipped pinion inside the transmission. 

Before splitting the case, you can try this:

  • The engine should be off.
  • Remove the belt cover and drive belt.
  • Shift the ATV into gear.
  • Try turning the secondary clutch by hand.  
  • The bike should move. If it doesn’t, you likely have a transmission issue and will need to split the case. Do not attempt such a job if you are not confident you are capable. You will need a service manual. 

This post goes more in-depth on possible causes when an ATV won’t go into gear or won’t shift gears. 

The primary or secondary clutch in the CVT transmission not working properly

If one of the clutches is not working properly, they may not engage to move your ATV forward. 

Listen if you hear any abnormal or weird noises from the belt housing area while in gear and applying throttle.

To further investigate, you need to open the belt cover and inspect how the clutches behave. Keep your hands and any loose objects clear of the clutches any time the motor is running.

  • Put the bike in neutral.
  • Apply some throttle until the clutches speed up.
    • The primary (drive) clutch is the one coming from the engine.
    • The secondary (driven) clutch is the one coming from the transmission.
atv cvt transmission primary secondary clutch
  • The belt should not turn on idle but should start turning when you apply throttle. 
  • The clutches behave differently on different types of ATVs:

On belted ATVs that also have a centrifugal wet clutch, none of the dry clutches should spin on idle, even when in gear. When you apply throttle, the wet clutch engages, which engages the primary clutch, that turns the belt which then spins the secondary.

On belted ATVs without a wet clutch, the primary clutch is spinning all the time, while the secondary clutch only spins when throttle is applied. When idling, the belt rests on a bearing on the spinning primary, but as soon as it speeds up, it grabs onto the belt so that it starts turning. 

If your ATV does not behave as described above, you may have issues with the clutches that need to be addressed.

Locked up rear differential

Differentials are another possible culprit if your ATV won’t move. A range of things can go wrong, but here are some of the more common:

  • There may be debris or metal shavings constricting the gears. Flush all the old fluid out and add new according to spec.
  • The mechanism for engaging or disengaging the diff may be broken. Visually inspect and repair if you see any signs of damage.
  • Bearings inside the diff may be worn out or sized. It is not uncommon that dirt and water enter the diff, creating perfect corrosion and premature wear conditions. 
  • The gears inside the diff may be stripped. Listen for grinding noises. Rebuild kits are available for most ATVs. This job requires above-average mechanical skills. 

Wet clutch systems, oil-related issues

Some ATVs have internal wet clutches that sit in an oil sump. The same issues listed here also apply to the Hondas with hydrostatic transmissions.

Make sure you are using the right type of oil

Wet clutch systems require that you use a specific type of oil for the clutches to be working properly. If the oil you are using is not wet clutch safe, it will prevent your wet clutch from engaging and prevent your four-wheeler from moving.

Please refer to your service manual to learn what type of oil your ATV needs.

Make sure the oil level is correct

Another common issue that will prevent your wet clutch from working properly is running with too little oil.

Adding oil to the specified level may, in some cases, be enough to bring your ATV back to full working order.

But if you’ve been running too little oil for too long, you may be looking at expensive repairs such as transmission rebuild, oil pump replacement, or at worst case, a complete engine rebuild.

Your service manual will tell you the correct oil level.

Other wet clutch-related issues

Here are a few issues it may be worth looking into if you suspect that your wet clutch is not working properly:

The clutch may not be adjusted correctly

Some, if not all, wet clutches have an adjustment screw for proper alignment. If not adjusted correctly, the clutch pack will stay disengaged all the time.  A service manual will tell you where to find it on your ATV.

Many owners report that they find this adjustment screw very hard to move.

The clutch plates may be hung up or jammed

If the adjuster screw is turned too far, it may push the pressure plate back too far, where it may get hung up. Other components like the clutch plates may hang up or somehow get jammed as well.

To find out, you need to remove the clutch plate cover on your wet clutch. Replace the clutch plates if you see any sign of damage. 

Electric gear shift motor not engaging completely 

On Honda ES models, you may find that the shift motor is not fully shifting the transmission into gear. It may lurch or make a noise as if it is going into gear, but in reality, it bumps back out of gear as soon as you apply throttle.

The grease used inside these motors may be too heavy, or it tends to gum up over time. Cleaning out the old grease and adding white lithium grease may be all that is needed to bring the motor back in working order.

The gear position sensor is bad

Gear position sensors may go bad from shorting out or due to internal corrosion.

If you know your ways around a multimeter, check for continuity in the different gear settings. If there is no continuity in any of the positions, you know that the sensor is toast or needs replacing.

Haavard Krislok

I'm an ATV and offroad-enthusiast, an engineer, a farmer, and an avid home-mechanic. I'm also the owner and editor of If you have any questions or suggestions regarding this article, please feel free to contact me.


Join Date: May 2009


Posts: 1,142


I have to laugh when people say it is new.... new is 1-5 minutes old... not a couple of months old or a year old... I have a customer who bought a 125 atk dune buggy,,, F -N - R MOTOR... 1/2 hour later the clutch piles up... the plates were shot.. this was new stock .. not old stock.. a new clutch fixed it.. warranty for replace it... check your clutch.. he adjusted it .. no diff... drain the oil check for lining material ... pull the side cover off and see.... somehow it works in reverse the odd time.. there is no diff about the air inlet screw on the carb for forward or reverse drive,... the motor runs the same way.... take apart your cover and see.. it is the clutch....



Power in atv forward chinese no

If you are experiencing issues with your engine bogging under throttle, then you are not alone. If you take a look at various ATV forums, you will find other ATV owners with the same issues. Experiencing an engine bog under full throttle can be a frustrating issue.

This is why resolving the issue is the priority for most ATV owners. If you are wondering why your Chinese ATV bogs under throttle, and what causes engine bogging, this article has some helpful answers, read on!

Types of Engine Bogs

Before you get to understand why your Chinese ATV bogs under throttle, you need to understand the three types of swamps.

Lean Bog

A lean bog occurs when the air to fuel ratio in the engine is imbalanced. Lean bogs come about when the amount of fuel in your engine is less than the amount of air. This mostly occurs when your ATV runs out of fuel. It can also happen if the air boxes are opened, thus allowing in too much air.

Rich Bog

On the other hand, a rich bog occurs when there is too much fuel and not enough air in the engine. A rich swamp often feels like a bubble, and the throttle can sometimes feel slow.

Gear Bog

A gear bog occurs when you are riding your ATV on high gear. The throttle response is sluggish and slow.

What Causes Engine Bogging?

There are many reasons why your Chinese ATV bogs under full throttle. Below are some of the primary reasons why your engine bogs under acceleration.

A Dirty Air Filter

A dirty or clogged air filter is one of the most common reasons for an engine bog under acceleration. A clogged engine air filter causes an inefficient and polluted air and fuel mixture, thus bogging down the engine.

A Dirty Carburetor

Another common reason for an engine bog is a dirty carburetor. If dust gets in the carburetor, it clogs the jet or the main pilot, causing fuel flow issues.

Old or Dirty Gas Tank

It’s not often that most people remember to clean out their gas tank, which causes some problems with the ATV. A dirty gas tank mostly means that there is a gasoline clot in the gas tank. The clot prevents or slows the fuel from reaching the engine, causing it to bog under throttle.

Evaporated Emission System

When your Chinese ATV is new, the Evaporated Emission System starts instantly and works amazingly. However, with time the system gets warmer and begins causing issues. Some of the problems caused by a warm evaporated emission system include a torn front intake boot and the internal pump sticking out.

A Dirty Transfer Pump Screen

A clogged transfer screen is also one of the reasons why your engine could be bogging.

How to Tell if Your ATV Is Running Lean or Not

Vehicles and other automobiles are often described as running lean or rich depending on their air and fuel consumption. Gas engines burn both fuel and air to function correctly. As this mixture gets into the combustion chamber, it gets ignited by a spark to produce enough power to get a vehicle functioning efficiently.

So how are you able to tell if your Chinese ATV is running rich or lean?

Running Rich

If your ATV is running rich, it implies that your engine is getting too much fuel and less air. Your ATV will still be able to function, but you are likely to encounter signals such as a strong gasoline smell, especially if it’s idling, slow acceleration, and low gas mileage.

If not checked on time, running rich can damage your ATV’s catalytic converter by clogging it with some of the residue produced from burning the excess fuel. There are several reasons why your engine might run rich such as the fuel injector getting stuck in the open position. However, the most common one is a dirty air filter.

The engine air filter is meant to trap any dust and debris and prevent it from getting into your engine. It also helps your engine breathe clean air. If the air filter is clogged, air won’t pass through the filter, thus not reaching the engine. A black colored plug is also a sign of running rich.

Running Lean

When your ATV is running lean, it means that your engine is getting too much air and less fuel. A sluggish throttle is some of the ways of identifying that your ATV is running lean. Alternatively, you can warm up your ATV and drive with the choke on. If there is no bog, you’re likely running lean. A white spark plug is also an indication that your engine is running lean.

Much like a running rich engine, there are various reasons why your ATV’s engine might be running lean. Some of the reasons include a vacuum leak, a bad fuel pump, or a dirty fuel injection.

To be sure of whether your engine is running rich or lean, use a scanning device to check the engine control unit. After plugging the scanning device to your ATV’s engine port, the tool will scan for any fault codes.

Most of the devices trigger a check engine light code when your engine either runs rich or lean. The only downside is that the device doesn’t reveal the reason why. Always note that running rich can hurt your engine while running lean can blow it.

Therefore, it is crucial to ensure that your ATV’s engine has the appropriate fuel to air mixture. Otherwise, this can cause severe issues with your ATV.

How Do You Fix A Bogging Engine?

Clean Your Air Filter

As mentioned above, a dirty air filter is one of the primary reasons for a bogging engine. To fix the issue, check if your engine air filter is clogged or dirty. To ascertain this, check for a grey coating on the screen. Try cleaning out the air filter and check whether the problem goes away or not. Alternatively, you can replace the air filter altogether.

Check and Adjust the Carburetor

If your engine is bogging, try adjusting the needle on the carburetor slide. To adjust the needle, unscrew the carburetor top and pull out the slide attached with the needle. Move the needle to the top and put it back.

After that, you can unscrew the carburetor at the bottom and clean out the bowl. To clean out the carburetor effectively, you can use a cleaning spray. Alternatively, disassembling the carburetor can go a long way in ensuring that it is thoroughly cleaned.

Clean Out the Gas Tank

Drain out the gas tank and inspect it for rust or gasoline scale. If there is any gasoline gunk in the gas tank, clean it out using a cleaning kit or other equipment. If you are unable to clean out the gas tank effectively, it would be wise to replace it.

Clean the Transfer Pump Screen

To effectively clean out the transfer pump screen, you would need to pull it out and dip it inside a half-full bucket of water. You must check the pressure before you embark on this exercise. Regularly check the transfer pump screen while it is in the water.

The next step would be to check the fuel level. Drain the fuel inside and fill it anew. Lastly, put the transfer pump screen back and see the difference.

In Conclusion

Any of the reasons revealed above could be the cause of your Chinese ATV bogging under throttle and also what causes engine bogging. If your Chinese ATV has been running efficiently and begins bogging, there could be a problem with the components or the assembly.

Fixing bogging in an engine is a simple task provided you know what to do. If you are unaware of the adjustments needed, take your ATV to a certified automobile expert to resolve the issue.

Fixing ATV Blown Fuses, Intermittent Short CIrcuits, No Lights or Power to Starter!

I began. To move, putting my booty on the finger, then on the leg with my mouth, while terribly shameful sounds were made when I sucked Alina's leg, because of the large amount of accumulated saliva, she squelched. From below, my penis poked into her foot, she no longer moved her lower leg, realizing that this brings me great pleasure.

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I proudly threw up my chin and wanted to pro-plan past the sitting guy with the words: "I'm waiting for you in the car, take me home and you. Can forget about my existence for a month. " But I failed to slip to the exit.

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