Ark breeding guide

Ark breeding guide DEFAULT

‘Ark: Survival Evolved’ Breeding Guide: Stats & Mutations Explained, How To Breed The Best Dinos

Ark: Survival Evolved is largely focused on getting getting the best possible Dinos for yourself and your tribe. One of the most effective ways to do that is through breeding. Between stats and mutations the process gets a bit complicated, but we’re here to offer an introduction to the art of love.


The purpose of breeding Dinos is simple. Not only does it offer more tames for your collection, but it’s also the primary way players can micromanage the stats of their creatures.

As most Ark players will know, Dinos have eight basic stats for heath, oxygen, stamina, food, weight, base damage, movement speed and torpor. Breeding has no real impact on torpor or movement speed, but it still allows you the chance to essentially birth Dinos with the stats you covet most. If you’re very lucky and patient, you can breed something that’s maxed out in all six areas.

Breeding Dinos also allows you to have Dinos higher than a server’s level cap too.


You need a male and female of the same species that have strong stats. In breeding, the offspring gets either the male or female’s base stat, with a 70 percent chance of getting the higher one. Because torpor and movement aren’t impacted by taming, focus on the other attributes. For example, breed your high-health Rex if you want another high-heath Rex.

The actual process can be done a few different ways. The idea is to get the male and female close to each other and setting them to wander. The issue with that, of course, is that once you hit wander, the pair will just ignore each other. Players have found a few ways to circumvent this.

  • You can spam U on your keyboard to manually disable wandering.
  • You can build a cage out of stone or metal and put both Dinos inside.
  • You can ride one Dino into another.

No matter which method you choose, you’ll know you’ve done something right when you see hearts spring up above their heads. This prompts a mating progress bar to fill up. Once it fills in the allotted time, an egg will pop out of the female unless it’s a mammal. Pick it up immediately.

Hatching The Egg/Pregnancy

The next step is to hatch the egg or birth the mammal. What you do in this particular stage is going to depend on what’s available to you. For eggs, the basic idea is to keep the egg health and egg temperature bars high until the egg can hatch. You’ll see those meters once you place the egg down in the environment. It’s best to keep the egg indoors away from players or predators.

  • Low-Level Approach : Just place the egg down and find a place where the temperature is right. Keep returning there and guarding the egg while the progress bar fills. This is pretty dangerous, but it’ll work if you’re extra careful.
  • Mid-Level Approach : One approach we like is to go to a cold area like the base of a mountain and build a structure there. Inside that structure, craft some fires and torches around the perimeter to keep the egg warm. You can light as many or as little as you need to keep the incubation meter where it needs to be.
  • High-Level Approach : Many high-level players have also built elaborate metal houses specifically designed for breeding. These include air conditioners to regulate temperature and refrigerators to keep eggs fresh if you’re not ready to hatch it. You’ll need to be leveled high enough to craft all of that assuming you’re not using cheats.

For mammals you have to be ready to commit a little more. Just keep the mother in a safe place and feed her through a trough until the pregnancy meter fills. You have a 10 percent chance of twins and a 2 percent chance of triplets. 

Simply put, you need to be there as soon as the hatch or birth so you can approach the Dino, look at its inventory and imprint it. If you’re not around to imprint, other players can steal your baby. After imprinting just keep feeding the baby berries or raw meat depending on diet. Eventually it’ll graduate to the juvenile stage where it can eat from a trough.


Breeding is a simple procedure, but the results of it are fairly complex. We’ll recap some of the stuff we mentioned earlier.

  • Breeding offers the base stat of either mother or father with a 70 percent chance of the highest value.
  • For wild Dinos the stats start out the same. This means every level 1 Rex is the same. However, as Dinos level, one of those eight base stats is randomly buffed. That means the higher you get from level 1, the more varied Dinos can be. A level 5 Dino might’ve gotten all of its boosts in speed, while another may be more balanced.
  • Good breeding targets are Dinos that are way skewed towards a any specific area besides speed or torpor. Some players like to limit themselves to certain base levels for breeding, but we think that limits the possibilities for what you might get.
  • Mutations : Mutations are random, and they currently only offer random stat buffs two levels higher than expected. They’re also usually paired with a color change. A Dino can inherit up to 20 mutations per parent. Ergo, Dinos with no mutations are technically of lesser breeding value.
  • To see which mutations a Dino has, access its inventory and hit Ancestor List. There, you’ll see how many mutations out of 20 exist on each side. Sometimes the counter will register as a mutation, but the stat won’t actually be inherited.
  • A bred Dino in its first generation acts as a perfect tame. That means it gets a melee stst boost.
  • Riding a dino you’ve bred gives it a boost of up to 30 percent in damage dealt and resistance to damage.


Yes, but only on PC. Navigate to steamapps/common/ARK/ShooterGame/Saved/Config/WindowsNo Editor.

Open Game.ini in Notepad and paste these scripts.





Increasing the multiplier value makes the above processes faster. That will help for single-player. Online, many servers have these multipliers active by default. It’s up to the individual to turn them on.

There are also special events on Valentine’s Day that often speed up breeding on all platforms.


  • Don’t breed Dinos for speed or torpor. It’s useless.Levels don’t necessarily matter if you have the best stats. 
  • Once you have a maxed-out male and female, protect them at all costs. Those parents, and maybe some of their offspring, can keep the bloodline going no matter how many ancestors you lose.
  • A male can breed with as many females as it wants. However, the more partners a male has, the longer it takes the female to be ready again after hatching an egg.
  • It might help to start naming your Dinos by featured stat so you can track them. That way, when you see “max health” and “max oxygen” for example, you know which stats you’re combining.
  • Some players also keep track of their Dinos through a mobile app called Dododex. It’s a free download for iOS and Android. It features tips, breeding stats, calculators and more.

Ark: Survival Evolved is available now on PC, Xbox One, PS4, OS X and Linux. Check out our Tek Tier guide and updated admin commands for even more help!

Which Dinos are you hoping to breed in Ark? Was this guide helpful? Tell us in the comments section!

Baby is born. Baby is killed. Baby is dinner. (Babies are good source of Prime Meat)...
~ Drake on Baby Creatures

Breeding is a feature of ARK: Survival Evolved that allows players to breed improved creatures through Eggs with non-mammals and gestation with mammals. Eggs do not have an owner, so it's possible to steal eggs laid by other survivors' creatures.

Newborn creatures are simply claimed (imprinted on) and do not require the usual taming processes associated with wild creatures. Anyone can claim a newborn. This must be done promptly, along with feeding it, as babies can die quickly from hunger.

Breeding Mechanics[]

Preparing Mating[]

The first step of breeding is having two opposite sex creatures of the same species for mating. Original, Tek, Aberrant, X, and R variants of creatures count as separate species, and as such, cannot be cross-bred. They must be bred with their own variant. Most creatures can be bred; those few that cannot are listed at the bottom of this article. See Sterile Creatures for more information.

Always be prepared for having more than one baby to be born upon incubation/gestation completion. There is a 10% chance of twins, and a 2% chance of triplets.[1]

It has been confirmed that there is no creature in the game capable of affecting chances of mutations, twins and triplets.[2]

Mating Requirements[]

For creatures to successfully mate, they must be:

  • of same species
  • of opposite sex (one male and one female)
  • within mating range of each other
  • wandering or set to mate (Enable Wandering or Enable Mating must be enabled on both creatures)
  • not following anything (Disable Following on both creatures)
  • unburdened (the creatures must not be carrying so much weight they are unable to move)
  • not mounted
  • not spayed/neutered
  • not having a mating cooldown (once mated females have a mating cooldown interval before they can mate again, the cooldown can also be triggered when transferring the creature between Arks)

Mating Range While Wandering[]

If using the Enable Wandering method to allow for mating, then steps need to be taken to maintain the mating range, which varies between species and is loosely based on the size of the adult creature. If the mating pair wander outside the mating range, then mating is stopped and mating progress is reset.

Building a pen of a suitably small size to keep the wandering creatures within mating range of each other is one common approach.

You can also use the "Whistle Stop (All)" command ( on PC). This halts all creatures within the area to stop moving, even ones that are enabled to wander. It's best to use the whistle every time the creature starts to move again, or to prevent the creatures from ever moving, whistle constantly. While this method doesn't need a pen, it does need you or a tribe member to stay there and constantly whistle. This may be more helpful if one survivor is constantly whistling not to move, and another survivor enables the creatures nearby to wander. In this way, you can achieve mass breeding in an area without ever building a pen, or moving creatures.

To initiate breeding of a pair by yourself, whistle both creatures to follow you, then enable wandering. Then, disable following on both. This prevents them from walking around in the meantime.

It is possible to use the Dino Leash (Extinction), to restrict the range for mating. Then no mating pen is needed.

If you do not want to build a pen, whistle or use a leash; then you can simply use enable mating instead, this will make the creatures stand still and then they will start to mate.


When the above conditions are all met, a small red heart icon appears over the heads of the mating creatures, and a mating bar appears on the female's HUD (look at the female to reveal the HUD). The HUD also indicates which creature they are mating with. Ensure the mating animals remain close together, as otherwise the mating stops. Due to server lag and game mechanics, the mating bar does not continuously update in real time. Additionally, mating multiple females to a single male at the same time can make this worse. Patience is advised as the bar moves in leaps and bounds.

Once the mating bar is completed, non-mammalian females drop a single fertilized egg , and mammalian females start gestating.

If there are too many tamed creatures in the server or in the tribe, the pair will refuse to mate until there is a free spot.

Special Conditions of Mating[]

Some of the creatures will only mate when certain conditions are given.

Mating Wait Interval[]

Females cannot mate again until a mating wait interval has passed (Cryofreezing them will still continue the mating interval cooldown). This interval is indicated on their HUD.

The mating interval starts after the creature has laid the egg or gestation has completed. The mating interval is also started for female creatures that are transferred between servers. Males can mate at any time.


Main article: Incubation

The fertilized egg itself only begins Incubation when dropped onto the floor/ground or placed correctly in an Egg Incubator (Genesis: Part 2). When incubating, a Fertilized Egg must be kept at a certain temperature range depending on the species (this also factors in insulation). If outside of this temperature range, incubation won't make progress, and it loses "Fertilized Egg Health" over time and is destroyed if this reaches zero. This is all indicated on the HUD when looking at a Fertilized Egg, along with its parents.

You can always "pause" the incubation by picking up the egg and putting it in a Refrigerator, Preserving Bin or other Inventory.

The following eggs are an exception due to the nature of how it is obtained (no health loss in inadequate temperature area):

If there are too many tamed creatures in the server or in the tribe, the egg will continue to incubate with no timer information, but letting it hatch will not yield a baby.

Managing Temperature[]

The best method to ensure eggs are at an appropriate temperature for incubation is through insulation. Use one or more Air Conditioner, Dimetrodon, Kairuku or Otter. Six Air Conditioner should work for all eggs but eight is ideal for when there is a heat/cold storm. You might need up to 14 or more Air Conditioners for larger eggs such as the Giganotosaurus, or the Wyvern in Scorched Earth or Ragnarok. The Rock Drake in Aberration requires at least 15 Air Conditioners due to its very cold incubation requirement. Whereas the Deinonychus from Valguero needs a rough 23 Air Conditioners in the snow because of its extreme heat required.

With the release of Genesis: Part 2, the introduction of the Egg Incubator (Genesis: Part 2) allows for yet another way to incubate eggs.

Another way is to tame a handful of Dimetrodon. These seemingly useless finned creatures are actually one of the best sources of insulation in the entire game. The higher their melee damage, the higher their insulation bonus is; at ~1000 melee damage, it can even raise Wyvern eggs. The insulation effect stacks with other Dimetrodons, so if one isn't enough to do the job, try two, or three, or more. Far cheaper to maintain than the expensive air conditioners, these guys are mobile and only need meat, compared to the stationary air conditioner that also needs electricity to run. However, everything has its drawbacks: the Dimetrodon is slow and hard to transport on foot; they are hard to tame due to where they spawn and their fast torpor drop. However, it is worth the risk, especially on Aberration, where Rock Drake Egg would normally require many air conditioners.

At the beginning of the game, when the Air Conditioner or Dimetrodon are not yet available, use a heat source to regulate the egg's temperature. Standing Torch, Torch, Campfire, Industrial Cooker, and Stone Fireplace.pngstone fireplace work well. However, they all have the downside of providing negative Heat Tolerance, making careful management necessary, or going to colder areas to make the gap between cold resistance and heat resistance bigger. You may need four or more torches, depending on the biome and the egg.

Since temperature gradients can be very extreme between regions, easily reaching 20 °C or more, you can try and find a nearby biome where the temperature is closer to the eggs' ideal point; this is usually in the biome that spawned the creature. Early in the game, it is easier to find a biome that is too cold (e.g. near the coast) and heat the egg with torches, rather than trying to cool down a hot biome.

As Fertilized Eggs don't lose Egg Health in an inventory, and spoil incredibly slowly, you can keep them in your Inventory or in a preserving bin/refrigerator until able to achieve the appropriate temperature needed for Incubating. This can be very useful if you settled in a region with extreme temperatures as it's especially difficult to cool an egg in a hot biome without an air conditioner when it gets too hot.

Glued Eggs[]

While most creature's egg can be moved to its suitable location if the required temperature for incubation is not suited at its current location, some of the eggs cannot be moved once laid due to its glued nature. As such, females of the following eggs must lay their eggs at locations that allows incubation without causing complications:


During gestation, females can consume up to twice the amount of food they would normally. Ensure the expectant mother has access to plenty of food during gestation to avoid losing the baby.

The baby will need immediate attention to survive, so be sure to be there at the time the gestation ends.

Trying to put a gestating mother into a cryopod will terminate the pregnancy.


Babies are hatched/born unclaimed, so a survivor must "claim" them immediately after birth by getting close to them, looking right at them, and pressing the "use" key (, Y, Triangle) to imprint them, otherwise they can be claimed by other survivors. The only exception is the Reaper King, which can only be claimed by the survivor who "gave birth" to it; no other survivor including the birthgiver's tribe mates can claim it.

Warning: Pets set on aggressive attack unclaimed creatures as soon as they are hatched/born. Whistle "Passive" or claim babies quickly to avoid this. Also Tek Shields will 'shunt' unclaimed babies out of their radius.

As of 264.5, Auto Turrets and Plant Species X set to "Players and Tamed Creatures" will NOT attack unclaimed creatures after they are hatched/born. You can safely place turrets inside a hatching pen without fearing for babies' lives.

If babies are not very promptly claimed and then fed they can quickly die from hunger.

You can control the hatch timing of fertilized eggs using a Preserving Bin or Refrigerator. This is not an option for live birth creatures, so make sure to time the mating and gestation appropriately.

Caring For Babies[]

Young animals take significant time and intensive care, especially during the "Baby" stage; if you're busy, don't breed your creatures right away. Alternately, you can just put the newborn baby into a cryopod for later. Most creatures will require the better part of a weekend to raise.

New babies follow the nearest survivor if one is within a reasonable range, so survivors will probably want to disable these settings. New babies have extremely low health, carrying capacity and food, so survivors need to carefully feed and take care of them in their first moments of life, or they'll soon die. The creature must be fed by adding food to their inventory. Once they reach Juvenile phase of their maturation (10.1%) they can eat from a Feeding Trough or Tek Trough to ensure the creature has a sufficient food supply. The maturation progress and phase is shown when looking at the creature.

Babies dynamically gain more HP, food capacity, and carrying capacity as they mature over time. They need lots of food because the babies eat very quickly, so stock up beforehand while the mother is pregnant/the egg is incubating.

Babies are not mountable and flee from fights. Mounts that can carry creatures (e.g. the Argentavis) can carry babies, which allows you to quickly reposition the little ones if needed.

The Procoptodon and the Maewing are two creatures that can help with raising babies.

It takes a long time for babies to mature; breeding should only be attempted if you or your tribe have the time. As the baby grows, you will be able to leave the baby alone for longer and longer periods of time. One good use of a survivor's time at this stage might be crafting kibble for imprinting. If you will be imprinting, the baby might request any of 6 different kibbles (on PC and Console) or 15 different kibbles (on Mobile), so make sure you have them on hand.

Caring for Baby Carnivores[]

Baby carnivores are especially difficult to raise as it takes a minimum of 48 real hours to mature them, and a stack of meat spoils every 26.6 real hours (40 x 40 mins) in the feeding trough. Therefore their feeding trough must be topped up every 26 hours to continue their development. Failure to do so could result in starvation to death. By using Fish Meat, this time is doubled to 53,3 hours (40 x 80 mins), although Raw Fish Meat is only half as nutritious as Raw Meat, so babies will need twice as much meat. Creatures* will eat food with the lowest food value first (see food table below), thus fish meat before raw meat, so mixing the two will result in the longer keeping fish meat being eaten first. After progression to Juvenile phase, the creatures can eat from a trough, but will starve if not fed.

This is less of an issue for herbivores, because a stack of 100 berries lasts 66 real hours (2.7 days) before spoiling, a much more manageable interval. Remember not to try and feed the babies with stim or narcoberries because they won't eat them.

*Few creatures, like Baryonyx and Pelagornis will eat Raw Fish Meat before Cooked Fish Meat and they only eat fish meat. Similarly, their offspring will only eat raw fish meat until reaching adulthood.

The use of a powered Tek Trough that can store more items and acts like a refrigerator extending the spoil time is recommended.

Caring for Babies from Egg-only Tames[]

Babies hatched from Egg-only taming (with the exception of Deinonychus) only takes a specific food until they fully matures. While their food drops down slower than other babies, feeding them with their usual food will not replenish their food.

Special Caring[]

Some babies require special caring. Effects can be disastrous if not cared for properly.

Reaper King[]
Aberration DLC.jpg This section is about content exclusive to the DLC:Aberration

For details on taking care of baby Reaper King or how to obtain them, check its own article. Reaper King babies will attack any dino and any survivor around if it is able to reach towards them and will be constantly on wander (with no options to stop wandering or follow target). It will not attack the birth giver with Reaper Pheromone Gland (Aberration) effect. Once it reaches Juvenile however, it will stop randomly attacking and can be ordered like every other baby.

Whenever the baby attacks an entity, a portion of its food will be lost.

Royal Griffin[]
Logo Mobile.svg This section is about a feature exclusively available on Mobile

Baby Griffins prefer to be secure to feel safe. While it feels insecure, it will refuse to eat food from inventory or trough. For it to feel secure, it must be close to its mother based on the current ancestor, or a female griffin with the same surname as the baby.


Until adulthood maturity, Beelzebufo babies must always be kept inside water. Any attempt to pull it out even as Adolescent will easily kill it.

Food Values[]

Carnivores will only eat meat, while herbivores will only eat berries. During the baby phase, you have to hand feed the baby until it reaches the juvenile phase. This can take quite a long time so be prepared and have time to sit around feeding a baby.

* Brontos only gain 53.33 food points from their preferred Kibble (Carbonemys Egg)
** some creatures have different values for raw meat, e.g. the Bloodstalker gains only 10 for each raw meat.
*** only for Scorpions, Vultures and Mantis.

Maturation Phases & Food Consumption[]

Maturation Progress Phase
0%-10% Baby
10%-50% Juvenile
50%-100% Adolescent

Food consumption by babies is very large and varies by the maturation progress dynamically

FoodPerSec = 2.7 - 2.6 * maturationRatio

Note: This formula is an estimation and may not give exact numbers. `maturationRatio` is the maturation percentage divided by 100.

Some Perspective: For only one baby Rex (remember you could have twins or triplets) on an unmodified server, it will take roughly 450 stacks (almost 6 refrigerators) of raw meat to reach adult phase, so be sure to have plenty on hand before the baby is born!

Use a calculator to determine the needed food and time, e.g.[3]


  • The food consumption rate appears to change with each stage of the maturation progress (at least for wolves and Dodos).


Imprinting is a way to improve the stat-values of a bred creature. It requires one of three interactions (giving specific kibble, cuddling or walking) every 8* hours. Only a single player can imprint a newborn baby (whoever claims it first). There is no penalty for not imprinting, but no gain either. Any imprinting done is permanent. Accumulated imprinting values will not be lost if you miss an imprint.

If this player manages to care for the baby during the entire maturation, the creature's base stats before modifications will be increased by 20% and, when ridden by the imprinter, it will also gain 30% increased damage and damage resistance.

* The time between imprint and the amount of imprint gained per imprint can change if an event is happening. Keep an eye out on the HUD for when the next imprint is required.

Sterile Creatures[]

All tameable creatures are breedable except for:

Despite in-game showing the Reaper King as breedable, it is impossible due to how they are "tamed", with the added fact they are shown as genderless.

In ARK: Survival Evolved Mobile, Royal Griffin has gender and can be bred. However, they will only mate with members of the same house (they must have the same 2-3 last letters in their names).

Times for Breeding[]

  1. Va 1099 g
  2. Thumbs down clipart
  3. Best building clash royale
  4. Ark how to spawn tamed dinos
  5. 08 mustang seat covers

ARK Breeding & Mutations Guide

Hello! My name is Psychopation, and I am a part of the Dododex Team on Discord. I have been a "professional" ARK breeder for quite some time now and I would like to share and explain proper breeding techniques. The mutation system in ARK is incredibly confusing to an unexperienced breeder, and from my experience and others, it takes time, knowing the proper techniques, and sometimes it just "clicks" for some people after a certain point. Why am I making this guide? Because you can go past 20/20 mutations legitimately and breed literal super dinos.

This extensive guide will include everything from searching for stats, explanation on the point system, min-maxing your dinos, how to properly breed and stack mutations, and probably more! So sit tight and enjoy!


All stats in ARK are based around a point system. This is the allocation to each stat from its current level. The easiest way to see and understand this is on Dododex. The picture below is a wild 150 Giga that I knocked out. I input the wild dino's stats and you an see just to the right, it says how many points are in each stat. The reason I love using Dododex is that I can pull up the app on my phone and quickly input stats as I'm looking at the dino.

If you add up all of the points, that equals 149 (+1=150 because level 1 doesn't have stats)

NOTE: Dododex stat calculator is for wild stats ONLY. Tamed dinos have a different point system that we will cover a little later.

So as you can see, this Giga is pretty exceptional. On a Giga, the only stat that matters is Melee. All other stats have such minor increases with tamed levels that it does not make a difference. Once I tame it, the stat points will increase randomly by the amount of levels it gains. So on a 150, that comes out to 224 with kibble taming, meaning there are 74 more points that will randomly allocate. It is SUPER important to remember that the highest stats have a higher chance of getting more points added to that stat. So thats why we like that 27 melee. Below I have a screenshot of the Giga's stats once it tamed.

This is a great giga to start with. (Ignore the 82% damage and note the 37 points. My binocular mod is incorrectly showing the damage percentage)


The basics of breeding is pretty simple. You find a male and female of a dino, breed them, and get babies. Simple enough. However the reasons for breeding goes deeper than just getting more dinos. 

  1. Raising a baby lets you get an imprint bonus. This bonus increases the dino's stats by 20% with 100% imprinting (assuming vanilla settings). Not only do you get that stat increase, but when you ride a dino that YOU are imprinted to, it gains 30% extra damage and 30% damage resistance.
  2. Breeding allows you to combine stats. For example, if you have a Male Rex with 37 points in HP and 24 points in Melee, and a Female Rex with 31 points in HP and 45 points in Melee, you can breed them together and you have a 55% chance for each stat to roll in favor of the higher stat on the babies to get the 37 HP AND 45 Melee. Note: This is not a guaranteed chance, so you may need to breed several babies to get the stat you want.


Alright. Now for the bread and butter of the breeding system. I will be explaining using the point system, so if you skipped over it, you may want to read the section on that.

Min-Maxing and Why You Want to Min-Max

The process of min-maxing is simple, but time consuming. You are quite literally minimizing your useless stats while maximizing your useful stats. There is a reason for this. On official, the max level is 450, and there is a stat cap of 255 for an individual stat. If you have 150 levels in useless stats, you just lost 150 possible points, so you want to reduce those to make room for the important stats. Note: X-Dinos have a max level of 500 (they do still keep the 255 point stat cap)

I will be using my current breed line of X-Ankys as examples. There are two stats that matter on an anky. Melee and HP. Melee to get more resources per hit, and HP to not die if you're dropped while being carried or if you're attacked. 

This means you want to minimize Stamina, Food, Oxygen, Weight, and Speed.

So I tamed several X-Ankys until I got an anky with 37 points in melee, and another with 38 HP. I also tamed several Level 5-15 X-Ankys that had 0-5 points in ANY of the minimized stats (make sure you punch the low levels to get a minimal taming bonus).

Once I got all of this, I bred together the low levels until I had a low level anky with the low points in Stam, Food, Ox, Weight, and Speed. Then I bred that with the 37 melee, breeding it until I kept all of those low stats PLUS 37 melee. Then I did the same with the 38 HP. So the final result was a male and female level 89 X-Anky (37(melee)+38(HP)+13(wasted)+1(base)). And thats how you min-max. Note: You don't necessarily have to do 0 points like I didn't in this example. Anything 0-5 points in a stat is acceptable. 0 points just looks cleaner. 




Mutations manifest in two different ways. A color mutation, and a stat mutation (+2 points in that stat). A dino that gains a mutation will ALWAYS pop with both. Note: you may not see the color mutation because it can roll in any of the 6 color regions, even if a dino does not have that color region.

The base chance for a mutation is 7.31%. It is possible to gain a double mutation (+4 in a stat at a 0.184% chance), and it is incredibly rare, but I have also seen a triple mutation (+6 in a stat at a 0.00156% chance). These extra mutations will usually be in two (or three) different stats, but they can also go into one stat.

Mutation Stacking

Now in order to efficiently breed for mutations, you want a TON of females. My rule is to have at least 50 females. More females=more chances for a mutation. Here is where many people mess up in their breeding. NEVER CHANGE OUT YOUR FEMALES.Your females will ALWAYS remain the base level. You only want to change out the male with every new mutation, which means all of your mutations have to be on a male. 

Note: You can absolutely keep a female with the mutation, you'll just want to breed it with the unmutated male to switch the mutations to a male.

I like to hatch in mass amounts, as it takes less time than just hatching a few at a time. 

The reason you want to have a matching male and female anky is so that you can easily determine if there is a mutation just by looking at the baby's levels. Notice how most of the ankys in that photo are either level 89 or 125. Thats because I'm on my 18th mutation. So all of the babies come out either with NO stat increase or with the melee stat increase. The only variation is with new mutations, which mostly will be level 91 or 127. I will check each 127 to see if I have a new melee mutation only. Everything else will be killed.

Here is a picture of my V.18 male's stats. Note every stat is identical to the level 89 from earlier except for the melee.

Now once you reach 20/20 mutations....keep going. Don't change a thing. You should be seeing 20/20 mutations on the patrilineal side, and 0/20 mutations on the matrilineal side. You will continue to get mutations that will be born on the Matrilineal side, but will switch to the Patrilineal side when you breed it with your base level females. You are now 'cheating' the mutation system. As long as one parent has less than 20 mutations, you can continue to get mutations and with this process, they will keep stacking to the male's side. Note: once you reach 20/20 on the Patrilineal side, your chances of getting a mutation reduces to 3.7%, so you will continue to get mutations, but it will be slower.

You just continue to repeat this process until you get to 253 or 254 points in the stat you are working on. When you hit 255 you will no longer be able to add levels to that stat.


  • What if I want to mutate multiple stats? I like to utilize separate breed lines for each stat. If I wanted to mutate health on my ankys, I would get another 50 females and breed them with an HP mute male. You would then breed your Melee mute with an HP mute when you need an anky.
  • I was told to get a level 5 female so its cheap to clone a bunch of females. This is a viable method. However like I mentioned earlier, having both the base male and female the exact same level makes it incredibly easy to notice mutations, whereas if your level 5 has 2 levels in a stat, it could confuse you and then waste your own time checking its stats. I'm all about efficiency! And as a bonus, raising females just costs some time instead of valuable element!
  • So I have my newly mutated male, I can kill my old one right? I highly advise not. You never know when you may make a mistake and need to go back to a previous generation, and if you kill the previous male, you have to go back to even earlier generations, wasting more of your time!

Feel free to ping me in the Dododex Discord channel if you have any further questions!

Be on the lookout for more guides coming soon! You can find myself and the rest of my content creator team at

Sours: //

The alcohol was doing its job. In one of the jerks, the member jumped out of the vagina and easily burst into the moistened anus. Completely different, but no less voluptuous sensations seized Alina's genitals. She bent over, let out a moan of pleasure, and with force pulled her husband to her, so that the member entered her sweet ass to the very balls.

Breeding guide ark

I am much younger than her, nevertheless we easily found a common language and quickly agreed to meet - the next first time was planned for me. I have long wanted to surrender myself into the powerful hands of an experienced woman, and to do this in the form. Of total submission, fulfilling her every desire or whim.

ARK For Dummies - Mutations

Hmm. I study their proposal, and soon I dial the phone number. The next day Christina and I appear at the office of this agency. I then announced to them that I wanted to make a gift to my wife, and their condition was that both of us visit the office.

You will also like:

Will have you in the back, just like I fluttered and goggled my eyes and coughed. A nasty pause was hanging. After what the ladies burst into flames.

32468 32469 32470 32471 32472