Fuel injection pump - removal and replacement
1. Remove Injection Pipe/s
2. Remove Fuel supply connection
3. Remove inlet manifold if necessary
4. Stop Solenoids: On 05 models the stop solenoid is mounted on the cylinder block to the rear of the pump. This type of solenoid acts directly on the rear of the fuel pump rack. It is necessary to remove the stop solenoid prior to removing the fuel injection pump otherwise damage will result. Some 03 engine models have a stop solenoid mounted on the front of the timing cover which again extends through the timing case onto the end of the fuel pump rack. It is necessary to also remove this type of solenoid prior to removing the fuel injection pump. Stop solenoids that are externally mounted and pull on the stop lever are normally ok to leave in place.
5. Removing the fuel injection pump: Loosen the securing nuts/bolts in a progressive manner e.g one turn at a time as the fasteners are slackened the pump will rise out of the block but it will come to the point where the pump stops rising out. STOPif you have the urge to prize the pump out with a couple of large screwdrivers! DON'T do this as you will most certainly cause damage. Instead, press down on the pump and move the throttle and stop levers which in turn will move the fuel pump rack bar and should result in the fuel pump springing up and out because the rack pin has lined up with the cast slot in the block top face, leaving the pump free to lift off.
Look down into the fuel pump mounting and find the governor lever. There is an obvious slot in the governor level where the fuel pump rack pin engages into (left) by moving the stop lever moves the rack lever. Place the necessary fuel pump shims in place. Move the stop until the slot in the governor lever is lined up with the slot in the block. Hold the slot in position and offer the pump in, press down on the pump and start progressively tightening down the pump. Now operate the stop and throttle lever and check that the pump rack is moving freely. At this point you are now ready to check the spill timing. Click on the spill timing button now if you need further guidance.
Fuel injection pump - series removal
1. Remove injector
pipes and low
pressure fuel pip
2. Remove the two retaining screws and
lift out the start/stop
3. Prize out the
4. Unhook the
5. Remove the self-locking nut
9. Hold the rack link bar and light spring, then lift out the fuel pump from the governor casing.
6.Lightly hold the
and lift away the
8. Undo the fuel pump
housing nuts and
bolts until the pump is loose.
Lift the fuel pump
clear, leaving the
shims on the governor casing.
Removing the Injector Pump
Removing the fuel injector pump was a bitch! Wow. Here goes:
First off, shes a F Delphi Hydraulic Fuel Pump Ser #R mounted on the Perkins To get to her, you will have to drain the coolant, remove the coolant tank, move the exhaust manifold a few inches out of the way, remove all the high pressure injector lines and disconnect everything hanging off the pump.
- Drain the coolant and remove the tank.
- The only reason to drain the coolant is so you can remove the coolant tank. So pick anywhere below the tank and gravity will do the work.
- Then undo the two bolts holding the cooling tank down
- With the tank loose, its easier to unstick and remove the hose connections
- Thats it. Removing the cooling tank is fairly easy. Check the thermostat while youre at it.
- Move the exhaust manifold out of the way.
- To help reach the fuel lines where they connect to the injector pump, you will need more room. But you dont have to remove the manifold completely; Just enough to work around.
- Note that you will need new gaskets before reattaching the manifold.
- Slacken the nuts holding the manifold onto the engine block just under the injectors.
- You should now be able to move the manifold away from the block a few inches.
- Remove the high pressure injector lines
- Before this step, ensure your ignition is off. You will be working in close proximity to the starter solenoid which can provide a strong shock if you short it by mistake. Maybe even test it with a multi-meter first just in case.
- Also be careful not to drop any foreign matter into the fuel ports. Tiny specks matter. Block off the ports as you go with tape or something.
- Undo all four fuel line connections at the fuel injector side.
- Then undo the other end of the four lines where they attach to the fuel injector pump.
- To get to the hard-to-reach ends, it may help to remove the raw water cooling hose. Youll know the one. Its preventing you from getting both hands to the injector pump. Once its free you can move it the few inches to get your hands in there.
- Slacken all the fuel line fittings on the pump, then snake the four high pressure fuel lines out. Sounds simple, but this step was time intensive and frustrating! Not much room in there, and you may need to buy some shorter crescent wrenches. I went out and bought a set of cheapos just for this one job.
- It helps to label them 1 through 4 as well as top or bottom to hasten the reassembly, then lay them aside.
- There should be a total of six ports on the pump: Four high pressure lines, the low pressure in and the low pressure fuel return.
- Also disconnect the fuel cutoff spring and throttle linkages.
- And now, VERY IMPORTANT! Mark the alignment. If there isnt already, cut a fine line using a razor knife on the engine block directly beside the alignment mark on the pump. Pen wears off. These marks are used for fine-tuning the timing of the pump and you dont want to go through the alignment process. If the engine ran fine before, dont change the alignment!
- Now the pump should be completely free of hindrances and ready for the three bolts holding it onto the engine block.
- Two of the bolts use crescent wrenches, and one uses an allen wrench. The allen bolt was hard to get to and requires much swearing and creative tool usage. I used needle-nosed pliers, an L-shaped standard allen key and then stepped down to the metric allen once it was loose to speed up removal. The bottom bolt was easy. The bolt on the upper-port side was impossible until I bought a new crescent wrench with an off-set head angle.
- Note when pulling the pump, you will need to replace the mating surface gasket.
- It took quite a bit of turning and angling to get the pump out, but she was finally free!
- Now clean the mating surfaces to remove the old gasket. I used a paint scraper and acetone. Careful not to get anything inside the gearing. I took a photo with my phone to see in and was glad I did. Some of the old gasket had fallen in there!
- I dropped my pump off at Precision Fuel Injection just down the road in Honolulu to get refurbished. They were recommended by my fellow slip neighbors and Ed was really helpful. He answered a lot of my questions and had some good recommendations on future trouble-shooting techniques. The pump was finished a few days later with some new parts, a good cleaning and a successful bench test. Total cost for refurbishing and bench testing: $
- Replacing the injector pump.
- Replacing the pump was just as hard as removing it, but in reverse. Dont forget to put in new gaskets:
- I used a thin paper gasket cut from a sheet of gasket material from Napa for the injector pump.
- And I used the same material to cut gaskets for the exhaust manifold.
- Oh, and one more tip for reassembly: Make sure you dont skip a step in reverse and be sure everything is tight as you go. If you forget to finish tightening that one fuel hose fitting and it leaks when starting the engine, you will have to tear everything apart again to get to it! Talk about frustrating! (Yes, that happened to me. Doh!)
- Replacing the pump was just as hard as removing it, but in reverse. Dont forget to put in new gaskets:
Injector pump removal
Has anyone here ever dismantled one of these for inspection / rebuild ?
I know cleanliness is of utmost importance. But, is this something a meer mortal can accomplish, or is it taboo, and only for the Injector Gods ?
Before I took it down, I remove my hard lines at the IP, and cranked the engine over. Two of the four ports were sperting fuel up about 1 1/2".
Nothing from the center two. I removed the caps from the center two, and
could not get the plungers out with a small magnet. I think they are siezed
by dirt , etc. Anyway, the two that are working don't seem to be sperting
far enough. I called an injector shop and asked how far these should "spert
up", and was told at least 6". Makes me wonder.
Hate the thought of giving someone over $ to do something I can do.
Not to mention the mile delivery drive.
RTVW6 Injection pump stuck
Some adjustment issues. But the tranny problems ultimately come from pulling the ramp system (Steep Hills)while over loaded in to high of a gear. Secondly brakes dragging, due to mud and cement building up around the brake lever shaft where it enters the case, and brake cylinders getting sticky from mud sand and cement. They appear to be clean but small amounts of mud works it way past the seals hanging them up. Then the operators continue to run them until they overheat, and stop moving, they pull out of the way let it idle to cool down, them go some more. Pretty much smokes the oil and brass slipper plates, and cylinder faces. Like working for a demolition derby. The water down there eats holes right through the tranny cases. Unbelievable some of the chit we see. Heads cracking due to overheating.
are the tranny performance problems related to improper adjustment or wear? also what causes the heads to crack?
Click to expand
Pump kubota removal injector
Kubota Diesel Engine Troubleshooting
If your Kubota diesel engine does not start, begin by confirming that your electrical and fuel delivery systems are performing properly.
Electrical System Check
Electrical issues are among the most common reasons for engines not starting.
Defective or dirty battery cables are the problem more often than you might think. Use a cleaning tool to remove dirt and grime from the battery posts and the cable ends. Carefully clean connections or replace cables as necessary.
Use a digital voltmeter to check your battery. A reading of fewer than 12 volts indicates that the battery requires charging or replacing. Always determine whether recharging is the solution before replacing the battery!
If you’re getting an volt reading or better on a charged battery, check the safety switch with an ohm meter or continuity tester. Unplug the switch and check whether it conducts electricity with the plunger in the two positions. Sometimes the switch is conducting, and it is just out of adjustment.
Fuses and fusible links
If your electrical system is completely dead, it is possible that you’ve blown a fuse or the fusible link, which is a loop of wire found near the starter. Keep in mind that a fusible link most commonly blows only when battery cables are hooked up backward.
Fuel and Fuel Delivery
Let’s start with the basics. Is there fresh, uncontaminated fuel in the tank, and is it the right type? When gasoline somehow gets into a diesel tractor, it is necessary to purge the fuel system of contaminated diesel fuel. Drain and refill the fuel tank with fresh diesel, install new fuel filters and bleed the lines.
Also, check to see if fuel lines or primary/secondary fuel filters are clogged. Air in the diesel fuel system will also prevent an engine from starting. When this happens, find out how to bleed a Kubota diesel engine or get professional assistance.
White smoke and difficult starts are often signs of degraded diesel fuel. Fuel breaks down more quickly in humid conditions or hot-cold cycles. Black smoke may suggest restricted air intake usually due to a dirty air filter.
Finally, any water in the fuel system that freezes will prevent engine starts. When this happens, thawing it out is the only option.
Injection pump problems will also prevent successful engine starts. Once you establish that fuel is making it to the injection pump, it’s time to start troubleshooting a Kubota injection pump. Determine whether the fuel control lever is stuck. If it is not moving freely, apply some penetrating oil to the mechanism.
Also, check for air leaks in the fuel lines on the suction side of a Kubota fuel pump. When applicable, it is also important to check whether the electric stop solenoid is operating properly.
Sometimes your engine will still not start when electrical and fuel systems are operating properly. When this happens, it is possible the engine is locked up. This can happen if a child playfully jams a water hose in the exhaust pipe! As the cylinders and crankcase fill with water, a hydraulic lock will keep the pistons from moving. Remove the glow plugs and hand-turn the engine to get rid of the water. Change the oil and filter and put the glow plugs back in.
Once the engine starts, you’ll need to replace the oil twice during the first couple hours of operation to ensure that no water remains.
Contact Bobby Ford Tractor & Equipment Today
Bobby Ford Kubota is your source for sales, parts and service. Select from new or pre-owned tractors at our convenient Kubota dealer location in Angleton, Texas, location right on Highway .
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