Bmw x5 fuel pressure test

Bmw x5 fuel pressure test DEFAULT

Reasons Why High Pressure Fuel Pumps Fail in BMWs

Losing power when accelerating or going uphill

Accelerating, going uphill, or carrying heavy loads all require the car to burn more fuel. Burning more fuel necessitates the fuel pump to put in more work in order to keep up. Experiencing difficulty in these situations could be a sign of fuel pump failure.

Failure of the engine to start

When the fuel pump fails completely, it will not be able to inject fuel into the combustion chamber at all. This will automatically lead to a complete stop of the car since no fuel will be reaching the engine to run it.

Car jerking when accelerating

When the engine stutters in the process of acceleration, the pump is likely to be failing. This stutter or jerking is caused by the failure of the fuel pump to inject fuel into the engine consistently due to the irregular pressure in the pump. While the situation may only last a moment before going back to normal, this is a sign that you need to check the fuel pump in your BMW.

Surge in the engine

Surging in the engine occurs when the car accelerates even when you have not pressed the gas pedal. It happens because when the fuel pump starts to fail, the parts will wear out at different rates creating a mismatch that causes the pressure in the engine to be inconsistent. These inconsistencies can cause a surge, which can be very dangerous when driving.



Let’s discuss how to know if the vehicle problems you are experiencing are caused by the failure of the high-pressure fuel pump. Symptoms of a high-pressure fuel pump failure are:

  • Delayed start of the engine
  • Hesitation or sputtering in acceleration between 2000 RPM to 4000 RPM
  • High engine temperatures
  • Vehicle stalling due to exertion or temperature
  • Fuel pressure gauge reading low measurements
  • Poor gas mileage

What causes a high-pressure fuel pump failure?

The purpose of the high-pressure fuel pump, in combination with the low-pressure fuel pump, is to provide gas to the vehicle’s engine from the tank. A failure of high-pressure fuel pump can have significant impacts on your vehicle’s performance. Failure of the high-pressure fuel pump system translates to the following:

  • The fuel pump is struggling to supply a consistent stream of fuel to the engine.
  • The condition of the fuel pump is declining, negatively impacting its ability to supply fuel at the proper pressure.
  • The condition of the fuel pump motor is creating resistance in standard functions.
  • The fuel pump’s relief valve is failing to close, supplying more fuel than necessary, and reducing the vehicle’s overall fuel efficiency.

These conditions, and the resulting symptoms listed above, will ultimately result in your vehicle failing to operate or repeatedly stalling.

Inconsistent Fuel Supply to Engine

When the engine is not receiving enough fuel from the fuel pump system, or it is receiving fuel at the incorrect pressure, it cannot maintain engine combustion. This ultimately leads to engine failure: stalling or not starting at all. This can be a sign of damage to the fuel pump, aging of fuel pump, or even clogging of the mechanism. If you are not alerted to the problem by the listed symptoms first, your check engine light will power on and may be indicative of the described conditions.

Deteriorating Condition of Fuel Pump

The age of your fuel pump can ultimately manifest in any of the symptoms listed here, but one of the telltale signs of this is similar to sputtering in acceleration. However, instead of hesitation, the vehicle will surge suddenly, as if the gas pedal were pressed. This happens because, as the fuel pump system ages, different parts may be in better condition than others perform at different rates. While some parts are functioning properly and others are not, inconsistent engine pressures can result in sudden surges in speed while driving.

Open Fuel Pump Relief Valve

The relief valve is intended to play a part in regulating fuel pressure by closing and opening when appropriate. A failure of this relief valve, i.e. valve remaining open, will supply excessive amounts of fuel to the engine, damaging fuel efficiency and lowering pressure levels of the fuel pump system.

How to Avoid This

The high-pressure fuel pump is expected to last for about 10 years or 120,000 miles. Unfortunately, this is a problem that is inevitable over time. Still, there are a few things you can control that will extend the life of the high-pressure fuel pump:

Get regular oil changes

Many people tend to put off oil changes for as long as they can, since symptoms are not immediately observable. Yet, a lack of proper oil changes will ultimately result in degradation of your fuel pump. No lubrication from appropriate oil levels causes friction in key mechanisms, damaging the fuel pump and necessitating repair. A reduction in lubrication from the oil will also result in rising heat levels, a symptom that can lead to resistance of the fuel pump motor and ultimately, failure of the system.

Avoid running your fuel tank too low

Another common behavior that can cause permanent damage to the fuel pump is running the fuel tank low. Although it may seem like a minor maintenance concern, not enough fuel in the tank will expose your fuel pump to excessive heat and damage its functionality. Additionally, the fuel’s weight is an important factor in the fuel system’s capability to move the fuel from gas tank to engine, so, not enough fuel will impair this functionality.

Pay attention to fuel quality

Yes, the rumors are true. Your choice of fuel does affect the life of your vehicle and key mechanisms. Research has determined that “top tier” gas with detergent additives are best for your BMW‘s engine, helping it to not only run smoothly but to keep the engine clean as well.

Visit Das European Autohaus for Immediate BMW Service

If you are in the range in which BMW High-Pressure Fuel Pump Fix your fuel pump is recommended for replacement, 10-year-old-vehicle or 120,000 miles, or you have observed any of the above symptoms, contact your trusted local mechanic at Das European Autohaus in Spring, Texas. Our expertise lies in European vehicles such as your BMW. Our expert staff cares about top vehicle performance as well as the safety of our customers. If your vehicle is displaying signs of failure, contact our professional mechanics immediately. Das European Autohaus will diagnose the problem and the cause. We will provide high-quality service to ensure proper functionality and a long life for your BMW.

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Drives: 2011 E90 BMW M3 Silverstone

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Here are the findings

13268 Fuel pump faulty Test drove the car, engine ran fine. Checked fault memory, found faults 216117 Attempt to start engine with fault in fuel system, 1E0002 Idle speed control, engine speed too low, 120908 Charging pressure control 2, 120408 Charging pressure control, 11AD02 Fuel high pressure 2, too low during cold start, 11AC02 High pressure fuel, tool low during cold start, 11A038 Low pressure fuel system, electric fuel pump, 11A036 Low pressure fuel system 2, electric fuel pump, pressure too low, 11A031 Low fuel pressure , electric fuel pump pressure too low, 10FF01 Cylinder cutout, fuel pressure too low. Performed all the relevant test plans, low pressure and high pressure fuel system passed. The car sat overnight, test drove it in he morning for aprox 30 minutes, at the end of the test drive, the engine stalled, Was able to restart but it ran very rough and stalled several times. Rechecked fault memory, found fault 11B018 Electric fuel pump, speed missing. Performed test for low pressure fuel pump, the pump is faulty. Drained 25 liters of fuel from the right side of the fuel tank. Replaced the fuel pump. Cleared fault memory, test drove the car. After the test drive parked it and let it idle for aprox 2 hrs. Test drove it again and rechecked fault memory, no faults stored.
Job # C Total
Parts Total: No Charge


BMW Fuel Pressure Test – Fuel Rail/Schrader Valve Method

BMW Fuel Pressure Test Time – 30 Minutes

Repair Summary
The following article gives detailed instructions on performing a fuel pressure test on a BMW E46 3 series car. Even though we have used a 2004 BMW 325ci to perform this test, this article can be applied to any BMW vehicle with minor modifications.

If your BMW experiences a lack of power, hesitation during acceleration or poor fuel economy, you may be having an issue with your vehicle’s fuel pressure. A BMW fuel pressure test is a standard diagnostic procedure that is both easy and inexpensive to perform.

As complex as our BMW fuel systems may sometimes seem, they actually operate using very straight forward principles. Fuel is pumped from the gas tank through a network of lines and hoses to the engine fuel rail, where it is fed into the cylinders via the fuel injectors. Much like a simple garden hose, the fuel injectors spray the pressurized fuel in a fine mist into the cylinders, ensuring a complete and efficient ignition process.

BMW has very strict specifications on the fuel pressure that is supplied to the fuel injectors. Any variations in fuel pressure can cause a variety of symptoms including lack of power, hesitation during acceleration and poor fuel economy. If your vehicle is experiencing any of these issues, do yourself a favor and perform a quick BMW fuel pressure test before running any other diagnostics.

A BMW fuel pressure test requires attaching a simple fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve located on the engine’s fuel rail. Starting the car (or turning the engine over several times if the vehicle is not running) will immediately pressurize the fuel rail and give you a reading on your gauge. Most BMW engines require a fuel pressure of 3.5 bars (51 psi), with a deviation of plus or minus .2 bars (3 psi) allowed. High performance M engines require higher fuel pressures, usually 5 bars (73 psi) with a deviation of plus or minus .2 bars (3 psi) allowed.

No parts are required

[Tools shortdescription=false description=false toolid=’26405,26572,24062,26606′]

Section 1 – Installing and using the BMW fuel pressure test gauge

In the following repair steps, we use a 2003 BMW 325ci to demonstrate how to perform a simple fuel pressure test using the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The test is the same on every model BMW…it just may be a slightly different procedure getting to the fuel rail than what we illustrate below. On just about every BMW produced, the fuel rail is located on the top of the engine below its protective cover. You will usually need to remove the cabin filter assembly to reach the engine cover mounting bolts.

  1. Remove the cabin air filter housing at the back of the engine by detaching its cover and removing the four T27 torx screws that mount it to the fuel pressure test - remove the cabin filter coverbmw fuel pressure test - remove the cabin filter housing
  2. Using a metal pick, remove the two small plastic tabs covering the mounting bolts on the right engine cover.Remove the mouning bolt caps from the engine cover
  3. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the right engine cover exposing the engine’s fuel rail and schrader fuel pressure test - Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the engine cover mounting boltsbmw fuel pressure test - The fuel rail and schrader valve
  4. Remove the cap off the schrader valve.Remove the cap from the schrader valve
  5. The fuel pressure must be released from the fuel rail prior to attaching the fuel pressure gauge. The simplest way to do this is to use a small flat blade screwdriver to press down on the valve stem inside the schrader valve (the same way you would release air from the schrader valve on a bicycle tire). Use your other hand and wrap a large rag tightly around the valve when pressing down the stem to capture the fuel that will be sprayed out under pressure. No need to panic on this step…the fuel will only spray out for a couple seconds…just be sure to wipe up any that escapes your fuel pressure test - Use a flat blade screwdriver to release the pressure in the fuel railbmw fuel pressure test - wrap a rag around the valve to catch any fuel that comes out while releasing the pressure
  6. Attach the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Use a pair of slip joint pliers to make sure the connection is fuel pressure test - Attach the test gaugeUse a pair of slip joint pliers to tighten the connection
  7. Make sure the gauge is clear of any moving engine parts and start vehicle. Let idle for about 15 seconds, then turn vehicle off and check the reading on pressure gauge . As you can see, our reading for this 2003 325ci is a little low at 2.9 bars. We should be at 3.5 bars (plus or minus .2 bars). The most likely culprit is a dirty fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator.

    bmw fuel pressure test - read the pressure gauge and document results
  8. Release the pressure from the fuel rail by wrapping a towel around the slip joint pliers and slightly loosening connection. bmw fuel pressure test - release the pressre from the test gauge
  9. Remove fuel pressure gauge, replace schrader valve cap, and reassemble vehicle by following steps 1-3 in reverse.


BMW fuel pressure test completed


Pressure fuel bmw test x5

Cold start problems : Bmw X5 4.8 L 350 hp Gas

Fuel Pressure Checks
Depending on the application, the fuel system may require anywhere from 30 to 80 psi of fuel pressure to start and run. Pressure specifications will vary according to the type of fuel injection system on the engine as well as the performance, fuel economy and emission requirements of that particular model year vehicle.

Static Fuel Pressure Test
With the key on, engine off (or with the fuel pump energized), fuel pressure should come up quickly and hold steady at a fixed value. Compare the pressure reading to specifications. If you get no pressure reading, check for voltage at the pump. If there is voltage but the pump is not running, you have found the problem: a bad fuel pump.

Residual Fuel Pressure Test
When the pump is turned off or stops running, the system should hold residual pressure for several minutes (look up the specs to see how much pressure drop is allowed over a given period of time). If pressure drops quickly, the vehicle may have a leaky fuel line, a leaky fuel pump check valve, a leaky fuel pressure regulator or one or more leaky fuel injectors. Low residual fuel pressure can cause hard starting and vapor lock during hot weather.
How To Check Fuel Pressure On A BMW, BMW E46 3 Series

BMW X5 2003 3.0 Diesel starting problems


I was wondering if anybody could advise?

I bought an X5 a few weeks ago, when I bought the car it had an issue with the expansion tank which I replaced straight away! The owners told me it had no other issues and tbf its a really nice model but unfortunately it has a start up issues they didn’t tell me that bit 😢.

I’ve read so much about these cars now and the issues but I just cannot figure out the problem. First of all I should describe what happens so... when I try to start the car it only cranks then after a while will fire up (turn over) when it’s running it’s sweet as a nut, doesn’t miss a beat and has full power.

I had it MOT last week (told the machanic not to switch the engine of but a young lad did by accident 😂 although they fired it back up with abit of lynx) passed flying colours. Before the MOT I took it to a garage who put it on his computer and the fault code was rail fuel pressure (don’t know the code) he told me to change the fuel filter (sits to the right of the engine block) (the old one was full of fuel is that normal?) which I did and hey presto it started first time without missing a beat!! It was okay for about two days then started to take longer to fire up!

I thought I’d try something’s ive read on line so I swapped the fuel relay switch (green under glove box) with the CD one (same code and colour) and it was still taking a while to fire up! I then changed the inline fuel pump (under the car passenger side near the fuel tank) and still nothing!

Today I have changed the crankshaft sensor (sits on top of the engine just under the black plastic trim) and still nothing! (It’s still taking its time to fire up). I have yet to change the camshaft sensor because I have no idea where that is but that’s my next step unless advised differently.

I’m not a machanic nor can I afford expensive garage bills that is why I’m trying my best to fix the problem DIY style 😂 the MOT machanic told me its not the injectors because it starts perfect when it fires up and doesn’t miss a beat when running? It’s an automatic and like I said has plenty of power! I’m tempted to buy another fuel filter just to see what happens but I dunno as the one in is pretty much brand new. It seems to fire up better when not run for a while but struggles when the engine is warm. I hope someone may know of a way to repair it (I’m hoping I’ve missed checking something) also I don’t think the fuel pump is an issue because when I take the fuel line of the filter and put the key on 2 it spurts out loads.

The art of deduction is costing me pennies 😂 but I’d rather do that then take it to a garage for them to charge me loads of money I don’t have.

So please comment and give me some ideas if you need anymore info please ask! I’ve taken some advice from this page so I know you guys love to help out!

It’s a beautiful car I love it I just hope I can get it running!

I’ve heard something about a fuel rail pressure sensor but have no idea where or what it looks like that obviously could be my next step too?

Thanks in advance


Rail pressure sensor is at the bulkhead end of the fuel rail. There is a fuel pump in the tank too.

helix402 said:

Rail pressure sensor is at the bulkhead end of the fuel rail. There is a fuel pump in the tank too.

thanks for the reply Helix,
I know where the fuel pump in the tank is as you can get to it from the back seat but I don’t think that’s the issue. (Bulk end is that front or back) do you think that could be the issue?

Again thank you for your reply

Pre 2007 x5 I assume?

Rail pressure sensor is at the front of the engine on the front of the common rail. Volume control valve is at the rear of the common rail. Both could be cause of issues but so could injectors - when cranking it needs to reach 200 bar pressure and if the injectors are leaking off internally then it will struggle tonreach that setpoint so will never start. Spraying lynx lets the engine fire up on that and then engine turns over quicker allowing fuel pressure to be reached.

You need to get a leak off test done and it will confirm it

The pressure sensor is at the rear on the M57 and the front on the M57tu. According to realoem a 2003 3.0d could be either.

helix402 said:

The pressure sensor is at the rear on the M57 and the front on the M57tu. According to realoem a 2003 3.0d could be either.

Aha you are correct sir! I missed the 2003 bit in the title

Had the exact same issue, turned out to be injectors, they were leaking and causing pressure to drop and the car wouldn't start. Started fine with easy start and ran without issue.

Best advice would be to get it to a diesel specialist and get the issue looked at, replacing random parts will be a waste of money.

Elliot2000 said:

Pre 2007 x5 I assume?

Rail pressure sensor is at the front of the engine on the front of the common rail. Volume control valve is at the rear of the common rail. Both could be cause of issues but so could injectors - when cranking it needs to reach 200 bar pressure and if the injectors are leaking off internally then it will struggle tonreach that setpoint so will never start. Spraying lynx lets the engine fire up on that and then engine turns over quicker allowing fuel pressure to be reached.

You need to get a leak off test done and it will confirm it

Hmmm it seems logical to go ahead and have the injectors checked, but the car does start it just takes ages, it doesn’t really need the lynx, it was on that occasion because they wanted to start it up quickly. The problem is, if it’s cranking for too long it just flattens the battery.

The machanic in the garage was convinced it isn’t the injectors but it wouldn’t hurt having them checked.

Thank you fir your reply

Wayne0o said:

The machanic in the garage was convinced it isn’t the injectors but it wouldn’t hurt having them checked.

Without him doing a proper diagnosis, he can't come to that conclusion.

Yeah fair play, I just presume it would be something they see often and would know from experience. I’m going to book it in for a leak test for Monday if I can and see if anything comes from that.

Thanks for your replies.

Just to rule out the obvious (unlike my ex), it's not your first diesel is it?

Are you waiting 3-4 seconds before starting?

You don’t need to wait with an X5.

Ha ha no I’ve had a few diesels it’s booked in for Tuesday I’ll post the outcome thank you

It won’t be the glow plugs.

I've got a 58 plate 7 series, not sure if the engines are the same but mine had warranty work to fix a cold start problem. Turned out to be the manifold and EGR valve getting replaced.

Recently had a similar issue on my 2001 E39 530d which I think has the same M57 motor, reluctant starting but fine once running. Turned out to be one of the camshaft position sensors. Both inlet and exhaust sensors are at the front of the engine and close to the front of their respective camshafts, one above and one below the camshaft I think.

This would be my approach. I do this all the time, and like to think I know a bit about diesel common rail engines. (yeah yeah, I know).
1) Fault code read shows fuel rail pressure issues.
2) Measure fuel rail pressure via the sensor - base volts of 0.5v. Does it rise slowly with cranking, or is it a step change before starting - first is likely to be a mechanical leak, second is likely to be an electrical issue.
3) Stall the engine and look at the pressure decay - fast (< 3 seconds) is a mechanical leak. Long decay = electrical issue and no mechanical problem.
4) Assume it's a mechanical issue for now - check the injectors. If high leak off (hard to specify rates), replace all 6. (Check out Darwen Diesels - I buy loads from here, and they are cheap and reliable). Remove the fuel tank, and look for debris, as it may be a pump breaking up - depends on the severity of the pressure decay. you'll need to clean the tank in this case, blow the lines out, and change the hi pressure pump too. (but not likely on a BMW)
5) If it's electrical welcome to a world of pain - but have a look at the pressure regulating valve - that's the most likely.

Thank you guys for all your suggestions,

I ended up taking it into a garage and left it with them. It turns out it was 2 injectors one was really bad the other was on its way but thought it best to have them both replaced. Car now runs and starts first time every time.

If anyone is interested it wasn’t that bad at all it cost £115 +VAT for the injectors each and £170 labour charges at the garage! I wish I had have taken it in to start with as I spent over £600 on parts after reading other people’s problems online, although my X5 is like brand new smile

Again thank you guys

magnum555 said:

Had the exact same issue, turned out to be injectors, they were leaking and causing pressure to drop and the car wouldn't start. Started fine with easy start and ran without issue.

Best advice would be to get it to a diesel specialist and get the issue looked at, replacing random parts will be a waste of money.

Best advice!

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Notes on fuel pressure check (reference pressure: environment)

Feature of this version with ambient pressure:

The connection for the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator is located between the throttle and the air
cleaner or on the air cleaner.

Test precondition:

The correct fuel pressure regulator is fitted.


Using the EPC, check whether the fuel pressure regulator suitable for the car is fitted:

Connect test adapter.

Description of operation:

The control function of the fuel pressure regulator must be guaranteed under all operating conditions. The fuel pump
must always be able to generate a higher fuel pressure than the pressure regulated by the pressure regulator.

The injection rate is adjusted by means of the injection time; the injection time is controlled by the DME.

Description of operation: fuel return line

When the engine is at a standstill and the ignition key is in position 0, the fuel return line after the pressure regulator is

at zero pressure.

Description of operation: pressure retaining function

The pressure regulator closes when the engine is at a standstill and the ignition key is in position 0. The fuel pressure
in the delivery line is retained over an extended period. A non-return valve closes in the fuel pump. These measures
help to retain the fuel pressure in the fuel system. Extended starting times are thus avoided.

Complaint: drive characteristic faults, lack of power 


Run engine at idle speed and measure fuel pressure.

If the measured value is less than the nominal value - 0.2 bar:


Line cross-sections in fuel feed are constricted or fuel filter is clogged, 



Fuel pump voltage supply is not O.K.: e.g. as a result of high contact resistance (corrosion) in plug
connection between wiring harness and fuel pump.

If the measured value is greater than the nominal value + 0.2 bar:


Turn off engine stop and then observe measured value.


If measured value drops to nominal value, then line cross-sections in fuel return are constricted or


Check the fuel lines for kinks. 

If no kinks are visible:


Replace return lines

If measured value remains too high, then pressure regulator is in all probability faulty. 


With less likelihood, the return line may be completely blocked. When the pressure regulator is removed, fuel could

RA  Notes on fuel pressure check (reference pressure: environment)


08.02.2013  02:54

Issue status (12/2007) Valid only until next DVD is issued


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