Audi a4 coolant

Audi a4 coolant DEFAULT

Audi B6 A4 1.8T Coolant Flange Replacement

The coolant flange located at the rear of the Audi 1.8T cylinder head is the source of several common coolant leaks. Made of plastic, it bolts to the head with two threaded studs. In addition to holding the coolant flange in place the studs support a pair of tubing brackets, including a stand-off bracket for the turbo oil line.

• The flange supplies coolant to two coolant hoses, and houses the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The Coolant Temperature Sensor is held in place by a u-shaped plastic lock clip and sealed with an o-ring.

• The lower coolant hose has an integral sealing ring. The hose slides onto the lower flange neck, and snaps in place, retained by a metal spring clip that engages mating grooves in hose neck and flange.

• Here’s a right angle view of the same coolant flange, showing the two mounting holes for the head studs. Note the elbow-shaped hose to the right. This hose connects the flange to a steel coolant tube.

• Spend extra time cleaning the mating surface at the rear of the cylinder head where the flange mounts. The flange o-ring needs a clean, flat surface to seal properly.

A spring clamp tool makes removing and installing spring-style hose clamps a breeze. Attach the tool and squeeze the handle until it locks in place to expand the clamp. That leaves both hands free to slide the clamp off and on.

A correct mixture of pure coolant and distilled water is essential for adequate freeze/boil-over protection and chemical protection against rust, corrosion, and harmful deposits. A refractometer is the most accurate tool for measuring mix ratios.

Refilling the cooling system can be accomplished without special tools, but we prefer a vacuum refill tool. Just insert the tool’s rubber cone into the coolant jug neck and connect the tool to shop air. Switch the valve to pull a vacuum in the system, then move the valve to “fill” and let the vacuum in the system suck fresh pre-mixed coolant into the system from a container.

 

Kit Contents

Your Coolant Flange Kit with Coolant (ES2602886) includes: a new coolant flange with o-ring; attachment studs; an engine Coolant Temperature Sensor with o-ring and plastic retainer clip, and two quarts of pure coolant.

We have listed related, optional items, available separately, and recommend them for a leak-free repair. These include the two hoses attached to the flange, and a bottle of cooling system flush. If you are replacing a coolant flange for a leak, expect to find one or both of the hoses at the end of their service life.

You may also find an unpleasant accumulation of sludge and rust in the system, as we did, so be prepared, especially if the system has been neglected.

Note: Depending on whether you car has been apart before, you may need to purchase one or more worm style hose clamps of different sizes to complete this job.

Under the car – Step 1

• Remove the expansion tank pressure cap.

• Raise the car and remove the belly pan.

• Drain the coolant.

• Open the bleeder at the base of the lower radiator hose (arrow) by turning it counterclockwise until the coolant flows freely. (see next slide)

Under the Car – Step 2

You may need pliers to turn the drain plug if it is stuck. If it is really stuck and feels like it might break, you can pull the clip on the temp sensor (arrow) and remove it to drain the coolant. Replace the sensor o-ring if you take this route.

To avoid spilling coolant all over, attach a length of flexible plastic tubing to the drain outlet nipple as you open the drain-cock. This will direct the coolant flow to a catch can, as we’re doing here.
Close the drain when the flow stops. Hand tight will do.

Under the Hood – Step 3

The coolant flange is located at the rear of the engine, on the rear vertical face of the cylinder head (location indicated by our arrow).
Clearly, we need to remove several items to reach it.

Under the Hood – Step 4

Turn each of the three cross-slotted beauty cover retainer clips a quarter turn to release them; lift off the cover.

 

Under the Hood – Step 5

Components to remove from the right side of the engine include: two metal tubes, a turbo oil line, and a metal heat shield.

We have highlighted their general location in blue.

Under the Hood – Step 6

• Loosen the hose clamps at either end of the crankcase vent tube.

• Using a 5mm driver, remove the hex head bolts holding the tube to the valve cover.

• Disconnect the valve from the hoses at either end and remove it.

Under the Hood – Step 7

Pull the oxygen sensor harness from the retainer clip on the heat shield.

Under the Hood – Step 8

Use an 8mm short socket and ratchet to remove the four retainer bolts from the underside of the heat shield.

Under the Hood – Step 9

Lift out the heat shield.

Under the Hood – Step 10

Remove the hex head bolts holding the combi-valve tube/purge line tubes to the valve cover.

Under the Hood – Step 11

Remove the clamps from the hose at the combi- valve and the hose in the purge line next to it (arrows). Our car has worm clamps already installed, yours may have a factory crimp-style clamps that must be cut off and replaced.

Under the Hood – Step 12

Disconnect the tubes and hoses.

Under the Hood – Step 13

Pull the vacuum hose from the combi-valve.

Under the Hood – Step 14

Using a 5mm hex key, unbolt the combi-valve assembly from the back of the head.

Under the Hood – Step 15

Note the location of the combi-valve bolts and thin stamped metal gasket. The gasket will slide off easily, so don’t drop it behind the engine as you remove (or reinstall) the valve.

Under the Hood – Step 16

With the combi-valve out of the way, we can see the flange at the rear of the cylinder head. There are multiple coolant leaks and everything is coated with coolant crust.
As you can see, it’s a tight fit back here, with a only a few inches separating the firewall and engine.

 

Under the Hood – Step 17

Rather than fight with the Coolant Temperature Sensor electrical connector in tight quarters, pop out the plastic retainer clip with a pick or screwdriver and pull the sensor out of the flange, wiring and all.

Under the Hood – Step 18

Pulling the sensor up makes it easier to unplug. Press on the release tab and pull at the same time to separate the black electrical connector from the sensor.

CAUTION: Inspect the electrical contacts inside the connector for signs of corrosion. Clean with a spray contact cleaner, if necessary. This is a high priority sensor, and the connection must be a good one.

Under the Hood – Step 19

If you are re-using the lower hose, reach down and slide the metal clip out of the plastic collar until it hits the stops. Wiggle the hose free from the flange.

Using a 10mm box wrench, remove the two 6mm nuts from the flange studs.

NOTE: The retaining nuts secure tubing support brackets at top and bottom. The flange will not move, even with both nuts removed. The studs must be removed separately.
(See next step for additional photo.)

Under the Hood – Step 20

Here’s a bank shot photo taken with a mirror so you can see the retainer nut on the flange stud. The lower bracket shown here supports the turbo oil tube.
There is another, similar nut on the top flange stud that holds a purge line bracket.

Under the Hood – Step 21

Before we can pop the oil tube bracket off the lower flange stud, we need to remove the two retainer bolts securing the oil tube to the side of the engine. Remove them both with a 6mm hex driver and ratchet (arrow).

When the tube is free, you can slide the tube rearward far enough to pop its support bracket off the lower flange stud.

Remove the upper nut and pull the upper bracket off its stud.

Under the Hood – Step 22

Move to the left side of the flange. Follow the long metal coolant tube rearward to the rubber hose (arrow) that connects the tube to the coolant flange.
Disconnect the hose from the flange.

Under the Hood – Step 23

The old hose is tired, and a squeeze with thumb and forefinger tell us it is mushy at the bloated spot indicated by our arrows.

Note: This is another case where you may need to purchase a new worm clamp to replace the factory crimp clamp after you cut it off (right arrow).

Under the Hood – Step 24

Now we can unbolt the flange and remove it. Using a 10mm wrench, we unscrew both threaded studs and pull the flange.

Note: The lower hose on our car was leaking so badly that we just slit the rubber and pulled it off, leaving the coupler on the flange.

Ugh. One look inside the flange tells us that this system needs to be flushed to remove these heavy deposits.

Under the Hood – Step 25

The coolant jug tells a similar story. We remove it from the car and flush it with a garden hose.

Under the Hood – Step 26

We will preinstall the lower hose on the flange. Working on the bench makes it a lot easier to push the new hose coupler onto the flange until the coupler clip snaps in place.

If you are reusing the old hose, you’ll have to make this connection after the flange is installed on the engine.

Under the Hood – Step 27

 

We will also preinstall the Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Slide the new o-ring onto the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Then push the sensor into the flange until you can slide the plastic retainer clip all the way in, as shown.

Slide the nutted-studs into the mounting holes.

Under the Hood – Step 28

Clean the flange mounting area.

Install the assembly. Hand thread both nutted-studs through the flange holes into the head. Alternately tighten both to clamp the flange evenly.

Plug in the sensor connector, until it locks in place.

Reinstall both brackets over the nutted-studs and secure them with the 6mm nuts.

Refer to the illustration of page 2 if you need a refresher on component locations.

Finishing Up

Now you can start re-assembling the parts removed earlier.
Here are a few additional suggestions that may make the job go easier, and prevent future problems.

Flushing

If the inside of your cooling system looks like this, take the time to flush it out with a chemical cleaner. (DEI Cooling System flush is available from ECS Tuning – ES2608077)

Mix your fresh coolant using distilled water, available at most grocery stores. Shoot for a final 50/50 ratio of antifreeze and water for best results.

Using distilled water helps prevent problems caused by minerals in tap or well water that settle out and reform as hard scale. Filling We mentioned the vacuum fill tool on page 4. See how it sucks the hoses flat as it pulls a vacuum inside the cooling system?

Filling the system this way eliminates the hassle of “burping” the system to remove trapped air pockets.

Filling and Bleeding Don’t have a vacuum fill tool? Then you’ll have to do it the old fashioned way.
Fill the system through the overflow bottle. Start the engine and set the heater to HOT. Crack the bleeder screw on the coolant tube (arrow) to “burp” trapped air from the line.

Run the engine at a slightly elevated rpm until the heater blows hot.

Let the car cool before removing the pressure cap, then top off the coolant bottle to the max fill line.

Audi B6 A4 1.8T Coolant Flange Replacement

The coolant flange located at the rear of the Audi 1.8T cylinder head is the source of several common coolant leaks. Made of plastic, it bolts to the head with two threaded studs. In addition to holding the coolant flange in place the studs support a pair of tubing brackets, including a stand-off bracket for the turbo oil line.

Sours: https://blog.ecstuning.com/audi-b6-a4-1-8t-coolant-flange-replacement/

Thread: What brand of coolant do you use on your A4 B8?

  • 12-11-2015 04:42 PM#1

    What brand of coolant do you use on your A4 B8?

    Hey everyone,

    My coolant level is low and has been low for some time and I was thinking of heading to the dealer to get it topped off, but figured I should look to see what brand you guys were using, if any, from your local auto parts store.

    I'm thinking of going over to AutoZone to check them out, but thought I'd post here. I did find this thread in AudiWorld when performing my search, but it doesn't really delve into aftermarket brands you can find at a local auto parts store.

    Looking forward to your suggestions. Thanks!

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-11-2015 05:14 PM#2

    Doesn't help your aftermarket brand search, but I ordered G13 from ECS when I changed my turbo. I knew I needed it, but didn't feel like driving to the dealer, so I ordered it. Curious to see what other members suggest.

    Current: 2014 S4 | MGM | 6MT | Sport Diff | MMI | B&O | CF Inlays | ADS | ACC | ABG | Side Assist | EPL Single Pulley | AWE Touring + Res DPs | ...pending


    Gone: 2011 A4 P+ QGM | Sport Package | 6MT | MMI | B&O | GIAC | Eurocode HFC & Alu Kreuz | Stasis Exhaust | H&R RSB | DV+ | CR-15 | ECS Intercooler w/ Piping & Street Shield | P3


  • 12-11-2015 05:18 PM#3

    I use g12(++?) Or is it G13 now?


  • 12-11-2015 05:27 PM#4

    I do believe G13 is the new standard, according to ECS tuning. But I'm wondering whether there's an aftermarket equivalent available at a local auto parts store.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-11-2015 05:30 PM#5

    Pentosin Pentafrost. Literally the same stuff at OEM. (Pentosin makes the OEM coolant) Available at basically any parts store. But to be honest, it's not that much cheaper than the dealer.

    Justin
    I have a major problem, I'm a boost addict and a wagon addict
    #toomuchboost#racewagon#becauseracecar
    B5 S4 Avant - Laser Red. 6-speed Manual. 1 of 18. Unleashed by STUKLR
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    #YEengineering


  • 12-11-2015 05:38 PM#6

    I just bought a gallon of G13 at the dealer for $20.


  • 12-11-2015 05:38 PM#7

    And yes...... G13
    Is the new standard


  • 12-11-2015 05:52 PM#8

    What brand of coolant do you use on your A4 B8?



    $9.25 for 1.5 liters at rmeuropean. Site has great prices and a lot of options for our car.



    Last edited by blbroo; 12-11-2015 at 07:24 PM.

    Collector of German things.
    “Whoever said laughter is the best medicine had clearly never tasted scotch.”


  • 12-11-2015 07:21 PM#9

    Thank you for your responses.

    After further research on the Pentosin brand, I came across two Pentosin products that can be used on our B8's (and any Audi 2006+)


    Pentafrost E - (Violet) This one is the latest Pentosin product that can be used in our B8's.
    http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_E.pdf

    Pentafrost++ - (Pink) This can also be used but has been replaced with Pentosin E.
    http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_++.pdf

    Both can be found at your local auto parts. I found both of these for under $15 online and in stock, so I'm planning on driving over and picking one up.

    I had called the dealer before 6pm, which is when they close) and asked for a quote and they quoted me $30 but didn't mention the size. I imagine it's for a gallon. Since I only need to top off, i plan on simply buying the 1.5 Liter container for under $15. The parts associate said that I wouldn't need to dilute with water if I was simply topping off.

    What do you guys think?

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-11-2015 07:22 PM#10

    If you go dealer coolant, you can knock a few bucks off by getting it at VW. Why is your coolant low?


  • 12-11-2015 07:24 PM#11

    QuoteOriginally Posted by MacFadyView Post

    If you go dealer coolant, you can knock a few bucks off by getting it at VW. Why is your coolant low?

    It's just under the "Min" mark and I read that it naturally evaporates over time, so I imagine that is why. I guess I should check for leaks, but I don't think I have any.

    Last edited by doowopaudi; 12-11-2015 at 08:34 PM.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-11-2015 07:26 PM#12

    QuoteOriginally Posted by doowopaudiView Post

    It's just under the "Min" mark and I read that it naturally evaporates over time, so I imagine that is why. I guess I should check for leaks, but I don't think I have any.

    Mine was the same at 96000 miles. Took about a 1/3 of a liter to top it off.


    Collector of German things.
    “Whoever said laughter is the best medicine had clearly never tasted scotch.”


  • 12-11-2015 07:51 PM#13




    Fixed.
    Last edited by doowopaudi; 12-11-2015 at 08:44 PM.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-11-2015 11:02 PM#14

    There are a variety of options as multiple people have posted for *replacing* the coolant in the engine during a drain/fill.

    If you're topping off - I would use only the OEM fluid or distilled water. I don't have a great reason for this except then you're guaranteed to have no problems and a single bottle is not very expensive.
    If you stay out of the mountains I imagine you can get away with significantly more DI in your coolant system being in California - so you could just fill up with DI water and not buy any coolant.
    Default 50/50 mix is good to -37C, and the back of the bottle says 40/60 G13/Water is good to -24C (-11F)

    Another interesting page:
    http://www.cabby-info.com/cooling.htm


  • 12-12-2015 07:24 AM#15

    QuoteOriginally Posted by doowopaudiView Post



    Fixed.
    Nice transmission!

    2016 S3

    2004 S4- 2.7t, Shaved bay, wire tucked, PTE5858 single turbo full build.

    Instagram- @Thisisastickup


  • 12-12-2015 10:06 AM#16

    Prestone "any make, any model", $8 at Walmart. Been using it for over 15 years in all my VAG cars.


  • 12-12-2015 10:08 AM#17

    OP, look under your intake manifold, the leak is probably coming your water pump assembly.


  • 12-12-2015 12:37 PM#18

    I use whatever Audi uses lol.

    Sent from my Nexus 5


  • 12-12-2015 04:39 PM#19

    Just remember there's some coolants you can't mix with the OEM.

    - Richard

    2017 Audi A4 Allroad - Mythos Black - 034 Dynamic+ Springs - Volk Racing TE37 Ultras

    2021 Lexus NX300 - Ultra White - BBS Evo X Wheels

    2017 Honda Civic Touring - Lunar Silver - Sold
    2018 Volkswagen Golf R - Oryx White Pearl - Sold
    RIP - 2010 Audi A4 - Monza Silver - Apparently not resting in peace anymore.


  • 12-12-2015 07:16 PM#20

    QuoteOriginally Posted by Spike00513View Post

    Curious to know how, since it's a closed system kept under pressure.

    Good question. It doesn't make sense to me either how that can happen. I found this thread that suggests the dealer believes it's normal for the level to go down without any leaks.
    See post #14.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-12-2015 07:19 PM#21

    Pentosin G12 Coolant For Aluminum Engines (1.5 Liter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GRNS6Y..._9noBwbA42A819

    This is what i plan on ordering to top off my reservoir.

    2010 B8 2.0T 6spd K04 + [HPA Motorsport, Rays, APR, Eisenmann, Bastuck, Eurocode, KW, OSIR, StopTech, ArmaSpeed]


  • 12-12-2015 07:21 PM#22

    AutoZone should have it for about $14. By the way, read above. Pentosin++ has been replaced by Pentosin E.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-14-2015 12:42 AM#23

    I use this stuff in my MK4 R32:



    http://www.hstuning.com/product_info...oducts_id=3709

    Is it equivalent to G12 or G12+. Concentrated so all you do is add distilled water to get to the ratio you need. There is a G13 equivalent also made by Motul but I haven't found it yet stateside.

  • 12-14-2015 04:51 AM#24

    If you were just topping off you could of saved yourself the headache and just used distilled water. 1 gallon is typically under $1.00.

    |2011 S4|Premium Plus|Meteor Gray|6MT|Sports Diff|Nav|B&O|RS4 Grill|Bilstein PSS10|SPC Adj. Control Arm|Eurocode AluKreuz|Eurocode USS sways and endlinks|APR Stage II+|APR CPSv2|APR Exhaust|20x9 TSW Nurburgring|


  • 12-14-2015 05:24 AM#25

    I know the manual does not call for a coolant flush, but are any of you all completing this and if so what interval? I would imagine it would be good practice but did not see much when I searched.



    Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk


  • 12-14-2015 08:31 AM#26

    QuoteOriginally Posted by o1turbo30vView Post

    Prestone "any make, any model", $8 at Walmart. Been using it for over 15 years in all my VAG cars.

    Correct. That's all I've used in bikes and cars for years. I even called Prestone to be certain if it was ok in the Audi and he said it's totally fine.

    QuoteOriginally Posted by integroidView Post

    If you were just topping off you could of saved yourself the headache and just used distilled water. 1 gallon is typically under $1.00.

    This is the route I would have gone.

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  • 12-14-2015 08:45 AM#27

    QuoteOriginally Posted by integroidView Post

    If you were just topping off you could of saved yourself the headache and just used distilled water. 1 gallon is typically under $1.00.

    Darnit. Wish I had known. I was under the impression that the mix ratio had to be exact, but in the event that it couldn't be exact, topping off with coolant would be the best thing.

    Oh well, at least I didnt blow $30+ on a 5 liters of that stuff.

    Thanks for the input, nonetheless.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-14-2015 08:48 AM#28

    I just noticed I'm at the low coolant mark so I ordered 1.5L of Pentosin 8113106 Pentofrost E Multipurpose Antifreeze Concentrate which I assume I need to dilute 1:1 in distilled water.

    Click: B8 Quartz Grey Metallic A4 2.0T quattro | 18" Peelers et35| APR stage 1 | aFe | eurocode | H&R | 3.0 TDI FMIC | PowerStop | PODI
    Sold: B5 Silver A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT GIAC KO4 | B5 Santorin Blue A4 2.8 Quattro 5MT | B6 Caribic Blue A4 3.0 cabrio


  • 12-14-2015 08:50 AM#29

    QuoteOriginally Posted by booostView Post

    I just noticed I'm at the low coolant mark so I ordered 1.5L of Pentosin 8113106 Pentofrost E Multipurpose Antifreeze Concentrate which I assume I need to dilute 1:1 in distilled water.

    Cancel your order! Simply add distilled water. No need to have the exact ratio mixture when topping off. Save your money.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-14-2015 08:55 AM#30

    QuoteOriginally Posted by doowopaudiView Post
    Cancel your order! Simply add distilled water. No need to have the exact ratio mixture when topping off. Save your money.
    IDK man, water boils at just over my coolant operating temp, also it can get below freezing here in the winter. Why not just do a 50-50 ratio?

    Click: B8 Quartz Grey Metallic A4 2.0T quattro | 18" Peelers et35| APR stage 1 | aFe | eurocode | H&R | 3.0 TDI FMIC | PowerStop | PODI
    Sold: B5 Silver A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT GIAC KO4 | B5 Santorin Blue A4 2.8 Quattro 5MT | B6 Caribic Blue A4 3.0 cabrio


  • 12-14-2015 08:58 AM#31

    Ah ok. Then do what I did. Top off with the pentafrost e. Dealer told me there was no need to mix for top offs. Try giving your dealer a call and see what they say.

    ::2010 A4 Premium+ Quattro::6SMT::Meteor Gray Pearl Effect::35% 3M tint all around::Vag mods::debadged::RS4 replica grille w/ fog grilles::LED interior lights and lic. plate lights::ST Coilovers::19x9 OEM A5 Peelers::245/35/19 Achilles ATR Sport::Underseat Storage Bins::Zubehor Diffuser::Door Handle storage bins::LED reverse Lights::
    Former: 2008 A4 S-line::2007 Mazdaspeed3::1991 VW Cabriolet


  • 12-14-2015 11:12 AM#32

    My local Advance Auto Parts has quite an array of Pentosin products now.

    NAPA also sells Pentosin but a lot of times they don't know it...


  • 12-14-2015 11:19 AM#33

    i've always used OEM coolant ever since I read that certain coolants could possibly harm rubber seals, gaskets, etc. IMO, it wasn't worth my time to research and figure out which off name brands would work.

    I typically check on the fluids here and there so I've never had to "run to the store" in an emergency to get the car up to levels.

    I think we're talking a $20-$30 for a container of OEM VAG coolant?


  • 12-14-2015 11:39 AM#34

    QuoteOriginally Posted by booostView Post

    IDK man, water boils at just over my coolant operating temp, also it can get below freezing here in the winter. Why not just do a 50-50 ratio?

    a 49-51% ratio wont make any noticeable difference in freezing temps or boiling temp. Water is evaporating to begin with so if anything, the ratio of coolant is to high if you are barely below the low mark.

    |2011 S4|Premium Plus|Meteor Gray|6MT|Sports Diff|Nav|B&O|RS4 Grill|Bilstein PSS10|SPC Adj. Control Arm|Eurocode AluKreuz|Eurocode USS sways and endlinks|APR Stage II+|APR CPSv2|APR Exhaust|20x9 TSW Nurburgring|


  • 12-15-2015 05:56 AM#35

    Yup....gotta be careful when mixing coolants. I have been told by a few mechanics that if you mix coolants together they can seize. I felt it best to stick with OEM for top offs but if I was going to do a full coolant flush....you could use any of the above mentioned. Adding distilled water is fine provided that you're not in deep freeze temps.
    You should check your water pump for leaks (Known issue)....I had three water pumps on my 2009 A4. From 2009-2011, seemed like everyone who had a drop in coolant level had a pump replacement.

    '15 A4 S Line Q Tip Monsoon
    '09 A4 Premium Q Tip Meteor (Gone)


  • 04-13-2017 04:04 PM#36

    QuoteOriginally Posted by doowopaudiView Post
    It's just under the "Min" mark and I read that it naturally evaporates over time, so I imagine that is why. I guess I should check for leaks, but I don't think I have any.

    mines on the same level. can i just pour g13 in there?

    2012 BB A4 P+ S-line Exterior |FBSW RS Paddles/Pedals|CR-15|AFE Filter|ECS inlet|S4 Dual Exhaust|Ace Convex 19x8.5|ECS 10mm rear|Solowerks S1


  • 06-29-2017 09:03 AM#37

    Bringing this back. Anyone have a process or tips on completing a coolant flush and the refill process to remove air from the system?

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  • 06-29-2017 09:25 AM#38

    You can just drain the coolant from the lower drain on the drivers side and then re-fill with fresh coolant from the tank after closing the drain. That's what I did. Probably not complete but got fresh stuff in there.

    Black B8 A4 Avant S-Line Prestige Package, CPMB Engine, Tiptronic 8 speed, JHM K04-R, V1 & Beltronics, Eurocode HFC, APR FMIC, Alu Kreuz, Vogtland Coilovers, Stoptech 380mm BB Kit, H&R Swaybar, APR K04 Tune, Rev. "d" DV, R8 Coils, Folding Mirrors, S5 Rear Brakes, 034 Street Density Mounts, OEM Facelift LED Brake lights, 19x9 BBS CI-R, and more mods to come!

  • 06-29-2017 09:59 AM#39

    QuoteOriginally Posted by JeriQoView Post

    mines on the same level. can i just pour g13 in there?

    sure can.

  • 06-29-2017 10:03 AM#40

    QuoteOriginally Posted by JBAeroEngineerView Post

    sure can.

    should i do 50-50 distilled?
    i have a gallon of G13 and i dont feel like running to the store and getting a gallon of distilled water

    2012 BB A4 P+ S-line Exterior |FBSW RS Paddles/Pedals|CR-15|AFE Filter|ECS inlet|S4 Dual Exhaust|Ace Convex 19x8.5|ECS 10mm rear|Solowerks S1


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