T04E Twin Turbo DIY Kit For Small Block Chevy SBC GM
SBC etc. Fits Many Older GM Vehicles, Camaros, Impalas, El Caminos, Chevelles, Novas, Mailibus, Pontiacs etc.
" Runner Tube, " Merge Cup with " V-band Flange Headers
Twin T04E Turbo, Supports HP Total
- Chassis: Many Older GM Vehicles
- Motor: SBC
- Turbo: Twin Turbo T04E, T3 Flange
- Wastegate: Twin 38mm 8PSI
Product Being Sold:
DIY Turbo Kit with Stainless Steel Performance Headers + Turbos + Wastegates + Oil Line Kit + " and 3" Stainless Pipes
Header Fits SBC Motor Perfectly, Offers Two Front " Vband Connections, You Can Fabricate the Rest with Single Turbo Setup.
This is CXRacing's Newest Products for the Application Stated Above. All Parts Are Developed from Ground Up in Our R&D Center in USA, Designed and Built for Improved Performance Gains, with Excellent Fitment and Easy Installation.
- Off Road or Track Use ONLY, NOT for Street Use
- Due to the Complexity of Swapping a Motor to Different Chassis, Please Make Sure that You Understand the Application Stated Here are the Right Parts for Your Project
- Parts Being Sold are the Kit Being Advertised ONLY. Other Parts Shown on Pictures are for Demo Only
- Performance Header, Vband Connection.
- DIY Kit with Many Parts for Single Turbo Application
- Headers (A Pair)
- T04E Turbo x2
- 38mm Wastegate (8PSI) x2
- " SS Pipe (90 x2), For Turbo Pipe
- 3" SS Pipe (U x2), For Exhaust
- " SS Pipe (U x2), for WG Dump Tube
- " Vband Kit x2
- 3" Vband Kit x2
- T3 Flange x2
- Oil Line Kit x2
- Turbo Exhaust 5-Bolt Flange x2
Below Are Installation Pictures:
Gale Banks Engineerings Twin-Turbo Small-Block Chevrolet V8: 1, HP @ OCTANE/ HP @ 91 OCTANE
Some say American Iron has its place…in the gun sights of an import. We’ve talked about displacement and how turbocharging can make a small engine “bigger.” Bigger is bigger so when a large-displacement engine like a V8 or V10 get the pressurization treatment, look out. This best of both worlds one-two punch is vividly illustrated by turbo guru Gale Banks and the Gale Banks Engineering liter ( cid) turbocharged small-block Chevy V8.
The engine used for this buildup is a crate engine that can be purchased pre-boosted and ready to roll. Banks also has bolt-on turbo kits for V8 enthusiasts who already have longblocks prepped and ready for the boost treatment.
Dart Machinery, Banks’ supplier, starts with a custom inch bore high-nickel content block with splayed, four-bolt main caps for added strength. Banks engineers spent several months developing the head porting on the huge 79cc degree heads.
After the ports were finalized, Dart Machinery digitized the heads and created CNC-machined versions that will be proprietary for Banks. The heads feature inch intake and inch exhaust stainless-steel valves, inch double valve springs, and degree chrome-moly steel retainers. Quality Jesel shaft-mounted aluminum roller rocker arms control the valvetrain motion.
For the reciprocating assembly, Banks uses a steel non-twisted forged crankshaft and H-beam connecting rods along with Banks-designed turbo pistons. The camshaft is a solid roller with /inch lift and degrees of duration on a degree centerline.
Banks chose Accel to work on the digital fuel injection, engine management and distributor for the twin-turbo program. The Banks engineers wrote the DFI twin-turbo calibration for air/fuel ratios and spark timing for the Accel Gen VII DFI unit.
ON BANKS ENGINE DYNO, THE BOOSTED SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET TWIN-TURBO V8 PUMPED OUT HP AT RPM WITH PROPER INTERCOOLING RUNNING OCTANE GASOLINE AND PUSHING 12 PSI. PEAK TORQUE CHECKED IN AT LB-FT AT RPM. ON OCTANE AND 20 PSI THE V8 GENERATED AN IMPRESSIVE 1, HP AT RPM AND LB-FT OF TORQUE AT RPM.
Tried-and-true AirResearch T04 turbochargers with compressors and Inco turbines work well with the Banks-designed aluminum plenum atop an Accel throttle body. Banks’ plenum evenly distributes the pressurized air and features a trick pressure-relief shuttle valve that bleeds off excess boost when the throttle is closed.
A billet-aluminum serpentine belt drive tucks the A/C compressor, high-output alternator and power steering pump in tight and away from the heat generated by the turbos. It’s a well-engineered package that produces more horsepower than most applications can probably use.
Banks set an initial goal of hp, figuring that most hot rodders would be happy with that honest reliable number. Once the heads were developed and the combination of parts was finalized, the dyno engineers made some pulls on the test engine.
Banks’ hp goal was quickly surpassed. The engine made hp at rpm running on California’s crappy octane gas. Eventually, the same engine produced 1, hp on octane gas with the addition of an intercooler.
After more than dyno pulls to ensure reliability, the test engine was installed in a black Chevy ½-ton pickup which was sitting around the shop. The truck had low miles and Banks thought it would make a good test mule. Banks knew the stock tranny couldn’t handle the increase in power so a Richmond six-speed transmission was purchased and the engineers worked on getting the truck up and running.
With no traction aids and a bone-stock truck to work with, the engine had to be detuned a bit for street use. The engineers dropped the fuel injectors from 83 lb/hr to 55 lb/hr units and lowered the wastegate spring tension from bar to bar. With these minor changes, the truck still put down rear-wheel hp at rpm on Banks’ chassis dyno. It also lit up the super-sticky /45R Nitto NTR Extreme Drag radials like Christmas trees. It was perfect.
“Holy crap,” we thought as we continued to pick up speed on a small street in Azusa, a suburb north of Los Angeles known for its many industrial shops and businesses. We desperately tried to find something to hold onto.
Sheldon Tackett, our chauffeur and the Banks Engineering’s race shop project foreman, smiles as he notices our discomfort. We’re on overload, calculating how fast we’re going, how fast the truck is compared to other cars, and whether or not a taco truck is going to unexpectedly pull in front of us.
We’re still accelerating. The continuing forward thrust really has us planted into the seat now, but we still wish we had something to hold onto. The pull from this engine is amazing and seemingly exponential as the truck gains speed.
Finally, as we’re about to run out of road, Sheldon pushes hard on the brakes. He looks over at us with the face of a madman and laughs.
Off boost, the truck drives as smoothly as a stocker. Sheldon doesn’t say a word all the way back to Banks’ shop. He doesn’t have to. The truck did all the talking. Climbing out of the cab, our hearts are still racing. Yet we want more. This feeling hangs with us for several days. We want that kind of acceleration again. Every day.
The bottom line is that power is power, and the Gale Banks Engineering power-plant delivers on this promise. But now that we’ve been for a ride in that ol’ black magic truck, rear-wheel-drive American cars (and trucks) have a lot more appeal.
Just think of what Banks’ twin-turbo V8 would do in a Camaro, Firebird, or Corvette? Or a number of older, smog-exempt Bow Ties? Heck, even kit cars would be a great place to stick one of these thumpers.
Banks already has a couple of twin-turbo Firebirds going together, but for now, if you come up against any pocket-protector-wearing, engineer types driving a black GM ½-ton pickup truck, you had better think twice before racing them. Especially for money.
- Penn international 20 reel
- Rainbow backlit keyboard
- Mobile patrol app
- Cummins stock price
- Cherokee county birth certificate
eBay Turbos! Get rwhp from an Iron Chevy for $1,
Want RWHP For Around 1, Bucks? Learn The Secrets Behind . . .
Have you heard the legend about making 1, hp for $1, using eBay turbos? It's true. Well, parts of it are. We were able to buy a complete twin-turbo system that will bolt on to your near-stock small-block Chevy for very little cash and make more than rwhp. The problems lie in getting it to fit in your engine compartment and watching the tune-up so you don't scatter the parts.
When we hatched this scheme, we wanted to know the truth about the lowdown $ turbo. At Car Craft, we don't listen to speculation-we blow up parts ourselves so you don't have to. The following is a firsthand, actual test and fitment of the cheapest of eBay turbos. Since there are many variations of manifolds, turbos, and accessories, we tried to select parts that represented the average you can buy every day. Using an eBay gift certificate, we bought turbos, headers, piping, and all the other ancillary parts, and with the help of Ted Toki, George Diagne, and Eric Solomon at Westside Performance in West Los Angeles, California, we installed it on Toki's '55 Chevy for some testing. At the end of it all, we discovered that this is far from the best system you can buy, but it is a great way to get involved in the stupid power of a turbo system. When you do this, be sure to have fun and expect to make something explode in the name of science. We did.
You might have seen Toki's original '55 Chevy Gasser before. We used it to test a partial-fill inch small-block we built using a cheap stroker crank and a block ("Sleeper Small-Block Combo," Aug. '09). We drove it around The Valley to test the theory that a HardBlok engine on the street would kill all bystanders in an atomic mushroom cloud of boiling coolant. It didn't even ping. After that stellar performance, we decided to push our luck with the turbo scheme. We also like that the front end can be tilted or removed for quick engine swaps (two hours or less), and Toki has no problems with burnouts or door dings. Jealous? We are, too.
The engine in the '55 is a basic over iron small-block with compression forged Probe pistons and an Engle EP22 cam with / lift and degrees of duration at on a LSA. The heads are a set of factory iron castings fitted with a set of / valves and treated to a little bowl and short-side work. The manifold is a used Edelbrock Torker single-plane with a Holley double-pumper. We've heard you don't need crazy parts to make power with a turbo because of the relatively gentle application of cylinder pressure compared with nitrous or big static compression engines, so we wanted to use the simplest combo we could. The small-block makes about hp and can be found in just about any car guy's garage.
There were several new and used turbos on eBay when we went shopping. We skipped the used junk altogether and went straight for the lowest cost new unit we could find. That turned out to be the infamous T3/T4 hybrid. It has a T3-style flange attached to the A/R ratio turbine with a inch V-band outlet. On the cold side, it has a T04B housing and a 56 trim wheel. What that all means is they spin up hard because of their small size but ultimately create a lot of heat and backpressure. Larger, more expensive turbos, of course, would be better.
There are external wastegate versions available, but that added the cost of two wastegates to the total, and we wanted to spend as little money as possible. This is the same reason we didn't buy an intercooler. They're good-we just didn't want to spend the cash. We're going to tell you up front that the external wastegate design is a lot better. More on that later.
The exhaust manifolds were only $ They used all the parts that were advertised, such as a 1/2-inch flange and mandrel bends, were made of stainless steel, and included gaskets and hardware. That is the upside. The downside is the generic design. The primary tubes neck down into a inch collector before the flange, and the wastegate port is small and mounted at an inefficient degree angle to the exhaust flow. On the '55, Toki had to move the master cylinder to a floor design to clear the turbine housing. We're thinking it might fit a Chevelle that still uses the factory jam-jar nonpower brakes, but don't plan on installing these manifolds on your Corvette. For $99, it's worth trying on anything. You can always cut and paste as needed.
Eric Solomon at Westside only did a couple of things to the Holley double-pumper to get it ready. First, he swapped the brass floats for nitrophyl so the boost pressure wouldn't crush them. The next step was to mill off the choke horn and epoxy the small oval-shaped hole that feeds the choke rod to the top of the carburetor. The last step was to drill out the power valve channel restrictors on the carburetor. He used the large vacuum port at the back of the carburetor to operate the blow-off valve and left everything else alone. The fuel curve was stable at the power levels we saw in the test.
The Baseline RWHP/ LB-FT
We've stated previously that the small internal wastegates aren't capable of venting enough boost and subsequently risk overboosting the engine. After several safety runs to get the carb jetting and timing set, we made a full pass. The turbos began to make boost at 3, rpm and kept climbing to a maximum of 16 pounds. The '55 made rwhp at 5, and lb-ft at 4, rpm.
Those boost numbers may seem like a good thing, but they're not. Too much boost forces the boost-referenced regulator to add equal amounts of fuel pressure, stressing the system. It also required us to back down the timing to 18 degrees total, a move that kills power and driveability completely. That much boost without enough fuel to feed it and not enough octane to prevent detonation is the fast way to blowing up everything.
Another problem with an inadequate wastegate is the overspeeding of the turbo itself. We're going to argue that buying inexpensive turbos and spinning them to their maximum speed is asking for trouble. Since the untouched baseline for these turbos spins them hard, we're going to say that part of the reputation for flying parts and flameouts comes from too much rpm, so the first thing we did was slow them down and keep the engine below 6, rpm.
Sadly, if you look at this in terms of the system as a whole and the ultra cheapness of the parts, it was a failure. The only way to make this base system work is to run race gas and virtually no timing and risk overspinning the turbos and destroying the engine. The combo is also going to create a lot of exhaust temperature and crappy driveability.
Wastegates RWHP/ LB-FT
The fix cost us $ for a pair of good wastegates. We wired the integral wastegates closed and added a pair of TurboSmart Ultra-Gate 58 wastegates to control the boost. We were looking for 6 to 8 pounds from the turbos, so Marty Staggs from TurboSmart USA supplied a 7-pound spring. On the next run, we were able to add 5 degrees of timing to a conservative 23 degrees, and we saw a decrease in boost to about 10 pounds, allowing us to run the engine to 5, rpm. We made almost the same power with less boost. The relatively small size of the wastegate tube and the way it was welded perpendicular to the exhaust primary still prevented us from properly venting all the boost. The inch exhaust pipe from the back of the turbine also was too small, causing backpressure that was holding the wastegate valve closed.
Boost Controller RWHP/ LB-FT
Now that we had a little more control, we decided to find the limits of the setup using octane pump gas and a dial-in wastegate controller. The device simply creates a metered vacuum leak in the actuator signal, slowing down the opening of the gate or cracking it earlier in the rpm range. This netted us the best number of the day, using a maximum of 13 pounds of boost and 23 degrees of timing. But we wanted more.
High-Octane RWHP/ LB-FT
The enemy of the engine is boost combined with detonation. Up until this point, we were listening closely and watching for signs that appear as pepper in the plug's porcelain. The last run showed signs of both. To prevent problems, we added Rockett Brand octane fuel before we twisted a handful of boost dial. The result was a scary 22 pounds of boost and a whopper torque number for a cast-crank, iron-head The Fear also forced us to abort the run at 4, rpm when we saw all the numbers were still climbing rapidly.
We didn't care how much power we were going to make. We simply set out to see what you get for your dollars with an eBay turbo kit. If anything, we were impressed by nearly rwhp and the crank-snapping lb-ft, and you should be, too. We learned that you shouldn't buy the turbos with the integral wastegates; buy the external gates instead. If you are going to run this on the street, get an MSD BTM controller that retards the timing as the system sees boost so you can run some initial on the street.
The next steps for the '55 are a larger-diameter exhaust pipe to kill some of the backpressure, an intercooler, and a set of upgraded turbos to give us a cooler charge with less of a chance of grenading parts due to overspeeding. It will also give us more power, which is always a good thing.
Who You Gonna Call?
What you are going to get is . . . erm . . . what you are going to get. The reason reputable companies such as Turbonetics and Precision and smaller outfits such as Hellion and Wrenchrat get a little bit more money for their products is because they want their parts to last a long time and make you happy. They also don't want a mob of angry customers at the door. On the other hand, the address for our turbo was in the middle of the L.A. River and the phone number was / They might not be so concerned with customer service. Caveat emptor, dude.
|AN oil drain-back flange (2)||eBay||$|
|to degree intercooler intake silicone (2)||eBay|
|inch straight intercooler silicone coupler kit (2)||eBay|
|to turbo intake reducer silicone coupler||eBay|
|3-inch V-band flange kit (2)||eBay|
|50mm blow-off valve||eBay|
|Nissan Sentra 92 to 95, inch intercooler piping||eBay|
|T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger (2)||eBay|
|Twin-turbo exhaust manifold||eBay|
|T-bolt clamps (14)||eBay|
|Blue fuel pump||Holley|
|Boost-referenced regulator PN||Quick Fuel|
|AN oil drain-back fitting (2)||Summit Racing|
|bulkhead fitting (2)||Summit Racing|
|Spectre Universal modular air intake plenum||Summit Racing|
|ACCEL spark plugs (8)||Summit Racing|
|-3 oil feed (brake) lines (2)||Westside|
|-4 threaded oil feed flange (2)||Westside|
|-4 oil feed coupler (2)||Westside|
|4 feet of AN line||Westside|
|Base System Cost||1,|
|Ultra Gate 38 wastegates (2)||TurboSmart|
|Total System Cost|
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You Can Buy a Small-Block Turbo Kit for $! But Does it Work?
Cheap turbos are nothing new. The thrifty, yet potent, snails have been on the market for quite some time. You've read about them before, probably seen one at your local dragstrip, and have maybe even pondered buying one. Before you do, HOT ROD brings you the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth about cheap turbo kits.
A few years ago, eBay was the place to go for dollar-store turbochargers. It still is, with plenty of bargain performance parts, but the cheapest turbo kits we found came from another website: Amazon. The kits, sold under the brand Auto Dynasty, come in five tiers based on the amount of pieces included—you know, like ordering fried chicken. The base kit (five-piece) includes the turbocharger, exhaust manifolds, gaskets, wastegate, and some assorted V-band flanges and oil fittings, all for the pocket-friendly price of $ (Amazon Prime members even get free shipping). On the opposite end of the spectrum is the piece kit ($1,), which includes a plethora of electronic gadgetry: a turbo timer; gauges for temperature, boost, and so on; oil coolers; and a few pieces we really couldn't tell you what they did.
We bought the big kit, but now know the piece kit is the sweet spot for most hot rodders, as it includes all of the necessary parts, without some of the highly questionable components we suggest avoiding. Basically, you get all of the hot-side/cold-side plumbing, the oil lines for the turbo, an intercooler, a blow-off valve, and a wastegate (in addition to everything in the five-piece kit). In theory, this is all of the parts to build a functional turbo system. The piece kit will set you back an entirely manageable $ Without a degree in global business economics—is that a thing?—it is truly difficult to comprehend how this much "stuff" costs so little. More so than anything, it brings up the question of, "Do you get what you pay for?"
To resolutely answer that question, we packed up our freshly delivered boxes of Amazon-sourced turbo parts, grabbed a tired, old small-block out of a C10 truck, and drove to Westech Performance to put the rumor of the cheap turbo to the test.
Piecing the Puzzle Together
Steve Brul, the brains behind Westech's engine dyno, loves when we bring him boxes of mismatched cheapo parts to assemble in his degree dyno cell. It truly is a credit to his good nature and—um—patience that he lets us come at all. At least the water bubbling in the water-brake dyno's reserve pool adds to the humidity—a personal sauna of sorts to ease the stress of what all of us thought would be a challenging test.
Before the turbo assembly/torture testing began, we bolted our run-of-the mill, ci small-block Chevy up to the dyno. It was given a baseline pull to assess not only its health but its horsepower before boost. The result was good oil pressure, a steady idle, and an output of a whopping hp and lb-ft of torque, via a loaner Holley HP carb and open inch dyno headers. With a staggering output of horsepower per cubic inch, it wouldn't be breaking any records in NA trim.
Queue the dramatic music: It was time to bolt on the turbo—there are no instructions, by the way. Andproblem. Our first move was to install the passenger-side turbo manifold. We almost instantaneously found the No. 8 tube wanting for spark-plug clearance—really, really wanting. We actually couldn't fit a spark plug in at all, let alone a plug wire, in the allowed space. Out came the torch and several hammers to massage the renegade manifold into compliance.
After about an hour of hammer, heat, repeat, we had the hot side of the kit in place. The crossover tube does require welding. If you aren't that savvy with a torch, most muffler shops can expand the tubes for a slip fit and exhaust clamp or, if nothing else, double the thickness to weld to.
The next major problem occurred on the cold-side piping. The blow-off valve is mounted on a pipe that sandwiches via two silicone couplers before the carburetor. Well, someone's tape measure must have broke because the diameter of the blow-off valve mount spec'd in at inches while the rest of the system measured inches. Rather than create a bottleneck right before the carb, Curtis Mowery, the engine's owner, opted to simply TIG-weld the valve onto one of the intake pipes. This worked fine, but if you can't weld aluminum, expect to add this to the tab.
Another sizing issue—no doubt the result of the kit being pieced together from so many manufacturers—came at the air filter, which was too small to slip over the turbo inlet. Either a reducer or a new filter will be required.
After fighting some issues and coming up with the above quick fixes, we finally had the entire kit assembled on the dyno. It was frustrating at times and took some problem solving, but it was far from impossible.
But wait, "The turbo is backward," you say? Yup, it sure is. No, we aren't that thick. That's the only way it would mount. "If you tried to reverse it, the turbo would be exactly where the brake booster/master cylinder is in any car," said Westech's Joe Trujillo. We even tried reversing the turbo on the flange, but that caused it to interfere with the valve cover. Even a stock valve cover still hit. While this setup will work on the dyno, in a car, having the exhaust come out the front would be a hurdle to route and would look kind of goofy. Our thought was to weld a spacer to the turbo flange to raise it enough that it would have room to clear the valve cover. So far, we keep taking off points from the turbo kit's score, but would we be adding them back once the engine fired?
Fuel to the Fire
A turbo kit is just about useless unless you have a way to fuel it. To that end, we pieced together a Holley double pumper converted to blow-through spec. With only less than $50 invested in the carb, it was a mystery whether or not it would be able to keep up with the turbo or provide the correct mixture under boost. Surprisingly, it would turn out to be the most turnkey component of the test.
To duct boost to the engine, Mowery bought a Spectre carb hat for $—again, from Amazon. We used a rubber air-cleaner gasket and O-ring on the air-cleaner stud to seal in the boost. The kit includes a fuel pressure regulator that is vacuum referenced. Short answer: We didn't trust it. The thing uses tiny hose barbs supposedly capable of supplying hp worth of fuel—we weren't going to chance it. Running lean under boost is more-often-than-not catastrophic, and it simply wasn't worth the risk. An Aeromotive regulator took its place and was referenced off a brass fitting we tapped into the carb hat.
The vacuum routing diagram, which feeds the blow-off valve and wastegate could double as a Neolithic cave drawing, but it gets the point across—kind of. The kit also comes with feet of vacuum tubing, so shortages shouldn't be an issue.
We stood back, sweaty and a little frustrated, to admire what was now about four-ish hours of assembly work; bear in mind we were working in the confines of a dyno cell and not in the much tighter parameters of an engine bay—it could be worse.
T-Minus 3 2 1 Houston, We Have a Problem
You could practically touch the anxiety in the dyno cell as Brul lit the engine for the first time. Mowery and I were giddy kids at the back of the classroom waiting for the first pull—Brul, not so much, with his years of engine-tuning experience subconsciously warning him of the impending oil slick on his pristine dyno cell floor.
Since the ignition timing was already dialed during the earlier pulls, the engine was already good to go. Brul called up the test program and leaned back on the throttle. It was quiet, far quieter than any dyno I'd ever heard, the turbo and exhaust piping covertly exhaling exhaust gases toward the back of the cell. The calm, however, was only momentary as the turbo spooled and the needle on the SuperFlow readout raced toward lb-ft of torque before Brul could wing the throttle back closed.
Ecstatic shouts and hollers reverberated around the room. Did we really crack lb-ft at 4, rpm on what, only minutes ago, was a tired hunk of iron? We did!
Our excitement was short-lived as Brul pointed to a graph of boost pressure. Like the slope of Mount Everest, the pressure curve rose rapidly at a daunting angle. It had pegged 17 pounds at 4, rpm and was still on a lunar flight path when Brul aborted the pull. This kit would easily make 20 pounds of boost if someone winged the engine to redline.
As cool as the big number is, it's downright dangerous. A kit that makes 20 psi of boost out of the box is going to ruin someone's day—and, worse yet, their engine! Our scenario had everything going right for it: an expert tuner, octane race gas, cold coolant, cold spark plugs, and ignition timing that had already been retarded to 25 degrees. Change any of those variables and any internal-combustion engine could become external real quick!
Inarguably, the kit works. The turbo makes boost and the engine makes power. But that's only half of the equation. Being able to control the turbo, manage the boost level, and create a safe tune-up is paramount. Changes had to be made.
Originally, Brul and Eric Rhee, Westech's chassis dyno brains and resident turbo expert, figured the wastegate spring was too stiff, allowing too much boost to build before it opened. The wastegate's job is to vent exhaust around the turbo, reducing flow to the turbine wheel and allowing the turbo to slow down. The duo tried switching to lighter springs, chopping springs, yelling at the springs, all to no avail. The wastegate still wasn't doing its job and the boost kept climbing to unsafe levels.
As a last-ditch effort, Brul made a pull with no wastegate at all. The result was 1 psi of boost; we realized the wastgate wasn't able to move enough exhaust even when it was open. We pried on it with a screwdriver and realized that, even when it was fully open, the valve was no more than inch off the seat. The solution was to add a second wastegate on the opposite bank. Trujillo handled the TIG-welding chore and spliced a second Auto Dynasty wastgate into the mix.
The original wastgate springs were reinstalled, and it was time to make yet another dyno pull. To everyone's relief, the second gate did the job. We could finally manage boost! And for an even tighter element of control, Rhee plumbed an electronic boost controller inline with both gates.
With the boost set at 12 pounds, we wound the motor up one last time. The turbo did as it was told and held the forced air right at the designated mark—12 psi was worth hp and lb-ft of torque. The powerband had a beautiful curve with tons of torque down low and a smooth, graceful climb to peak power. This mill would make for a killer street car!
At the end of the day, we'll say this: Cheap turbo kits are not for the faint of heart. They require a seasoned car veteran who can handle elements of basic fabrication, engine tuning, and problem solving.
We were impressed at the power the kit made, but also concerned at the potential for disaster in box-stock form. Massaging this into the confines of a vehicle would be a challenge, but is certainly not impossible.
As for the components, the turbo gets an A+. It had no issues over the two-day test and the clearances still seemed tight after our abuse. Power potential is clearly not an issue with it. The exhaust manifolds get a worse grade (we'd say a D) as spark-plug clearance was not checked, nor was turbo mounting position. They will take massaging at the minimum. The wastegate was the biggest loser, having been clearly inadequate and the main culprit behind what could have been an engine-destroying problem. For that, it earns an F. As for overall fit, finish, and compatibility, we'd have to give the kit a C. About 75 percent of the components play nice with each other, but the variance in tubing size and incorrect air filter prove that quality control is an issue. There were also tons of random hardware bits, fittings, and other stuff that didn't seem to have a designated use.
Is this the cheapest way to make horsepower? Inarguably. "I remember when you used to have to build engines to go fast," Brul chided us. But it's the truth; bolt one of these on, work out the bugs, and you're on your way to highsecond passes—with plenty of reengineering required, of course.
|What's it Cost?|
|Turbo kit||Amazon||Auto Dynasty||$|
|Fuel pressure regulator||Summit Racing||Aeromotive||$|
Things You'll Also Need
The kit doesn't include a carb hat, so that will be an extra expense. We used this Spectre hat (PN ) with good results. It sells for $ Also, a boost-referenced fuel regulator is a must. Without one, boost pressure in the float bowls will slow (potentially even stop) fuel from flowing into them. This Aeromotive unit (PN ) can easily handle the task and adds $ to the overall cost. In fairness, the piece Auto Dynasty kit ($) does include a regulator, but it looked pretty sketchy and utilized small hose barbs as inlet/outlets. Chancing fuel problems wasn't an option for us.
Auto Dynasty (sold through Amazon)
Westech Performance Group
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Chevy engine 350 turbocharged
Its evening, and you and I will have dinner. You are probably very hungry, out of the way. No, not really, - feeling awkward in front of her, I muttered gloomily.Turbocharged Small block 350
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For the meeting. - picked up Candice and there was a ringing. Candice, you excite me. - I said, taking a sip.