Menswear Redefined – DAMAN Executive Editor Paul Dela Merced Reports from Bangkok
Years ago, it used to be that pre-collection, an ‘in between’ collection that leads up to the main collections, is a mere afterthought. But not anymore. Such is the case with Virgil Abloh’s Fall/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection. The result is a capsule collection sufficient to overhaul a modern man’s wardrobe.
Louis Vuitton Men’s Collection by Virgil Abloh–Fall/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection A first of its kind for the heritage brand, Louis Vuitton men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh challenges the notion of trendless, timeless, and effortless garments and accessories. For the fall/Winter 2019 Pre-collection, the designer presented a futuristic leitmotif of boyhood. He debuted a three-dimensional extrusion technique across outerwear, tailoring, and harnessing. Accessomorphosis, a portmanteau for morphing garments with bags, as well as compressomorphosis, a term for garments accessorized with wrapper bags into which they can be entirely compressed for travel purposes are seen throughout the collection.
Staples Edition by Louis Vuitton Virgil Abloh defines the word STAPLE in two ways: one, a basic fashion necessity, and two (a literal definition), a twisted piece of metal that holds two elements together. The Fall Winter 2019 men’s Pre-collection marks the launch of the all-new Staples Edition by Louis Vuitton.
It is a modern, standalone collection of essential garments and accessories elevated through the luxury lens of Louis Vuitton. Basic textiles are perfected, and the materials and branding are well thought-out. A metal staple native to office supplies, which now bears the Louis Vuitton logo, is pinned into the materials. A leather label attached to a carabineer, with a visual manual on how to fold the garment, serves as a tag. A closer look would reveal the brands signature savoir-faire: contemporary cuts, artsy techniques, and superior cottons, leather, cashmere, and denim.
And in keeping with the idea of basics, colors are kept neutral and masculine. It ranges from off-white and taupe to grey, blues, and black. A must-have for the modern man!
Louis Vuitton menswear artistic director Virgil Abloh’s clout in the hype streetwear game is perhaps second to none. Find another fashion frontman who can hawk quotation-marked wares with as much panache and turn them into hype-worthy fashion statements that hook the same crowd as Supreme does. While the Off-White founder has designed items ranging from furniture with Ikea to crystal lighting fixtures with Baccarat to glass water bottles with Evian, the one segment he hasn’t really gave a whole-hearted shot in is jewellery design (though some can argue his recent UNICEF bracelets with Louis Vuitton count too). For those in the know, Abloh quietly showcased a few diamond-paved paperclip-shaped accessories during Paris Fashion Week in 2019 at an Off-White pop-up. Tapping on the simple idea of interlocking paperclips – think of them as the precursor to chainlink jewellery – this Office Supplies collection is fashioned in gold and optioned as earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. This time around, Kanye West-approved jeweller Jacob & Co. is throwing its name into the hat, helping Abloh with the expertise needed to produce these guilded pieces with finesse. But just because you have the means doesn’t mean that they’re selling them to those with the most greens. Because of its bespoke nature, Abloh and Arabo want to verify each request, ensuring that each piece lands in the right hands. In order to do so, all interested parties should email to: [email protected]
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Louis Vuitton shop in Hong Kong [1]
Louis Vuitton – part of the LVMH group – is the illustration of a French company that successfully managed to align its operating model with its business model. This example of effectiveness proves that adopting a modern operating system is not necessarily contradictory with the business of manufacturing hand-made luxury goods. On the contrary!
Louis Vuitton’s business model
Louis Vuitton is one of the largest luxury-goods firm in the world. Established in France in 1854 and specialized in leather luggage, their products were revolutionary at the time because of the combination of both lightness and storage capacity. They were recognizable with the famous “LV” logo and the monogram canvas. In 1893, the firm started its expansion by participating in the Chicago World Fair and promoting the brand in the US [2].
The expansion strategy continued in the 20th and 21st century with a focus on the Asian markets. Vuitton also expanded its product line with smaller leather goods such as purses and wallets and started creating limited-edition collections to refresh the brand from time to time.
Louis Vuitton bag designed in collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami [3]
Louis Vuitton’s success relies on a few key principles:
Stores located in the most prestigious locations in the world (e.g. on Fifth Avenue in New York or on the Champs-Elysées in Paris)
Glamorous brand image with an advertising strategy focused on travel, famous models and actresses with a recent shift towards celebrities in general
Quality products
Presentation of Louis Vuitton by CNN Money [4]:
Louis Vuitton’s operating model
In 2005, Louis Vuitton was still operating under a traditional operational model. It would usually take 8 days and between 20 to 30 craftsmen to produce a “Reade” tot bag.
Although this traditional process was synonym of quality and luxury for customers, it was not efficient nor adapted to the growing demand. New designs were often sold out quickly and the company was not prepared to speed up production in this situation [5].
With the help of McKinsey, a strategy consulting firm and inspired by the lean processes used in the Japanese auto industry, Louis Vuitton revolutionized its operating model. Under the new system, Louis Vuitton was able to assemble bags in less time and in a more efficient way.
Changes in the manufacturing procedures
In 2005, McKinsey measured lag time in the different production phases and realized that there was a lot of wasted time that could be eliminated:
Workers who were originally specialized in only one operation are now trained to be able to accomplish different tasks in the assembly process. For example, a worker who was specialized in stitching would now be in charge of cutting, stitching and finishing the edges of a pocket. Workers were also organized into small teams of 6 to 12 following the example of workers in the Japanese electronics industry.
Workstations were re-arranged in U-shape, with the sewing machines on one side and the assembly on the other in order to minimize time to pass the work from one station to the other [6]. This led to freeing-up space in factories which allowed to hire more workers and therefore becoming more efficient thanks to a better use of assets.
Louis Vuitton also uses computer programs to help leather workers identify flaws in the skin they receive, reducing earlier the number of defects and the amount of faulty products returned. Similarly, robots are now smartly used to help workers focus on their core competencies: for example, in a shoe factory, robots are sparing workers walking back and forth from their workstations to the shelves [7].
Changes in the distribution procedures
Vuitton also redesigned its distribution system in hubs and spokes to meet customers demand faster: with a global distribution center near Paris, they are now able to ship products to six regional distribution centers in the world. Stores around the world send sales information to the French headquarter a few days after product launch in order to adjust demand appropriately.
Even in stores, the operating model has become more efficient and aligned with Vuitton’s business model: In the past, salespeople were going to the stockrooms to find the products, leaving their customers alone. Now, products are sent – wrapped! – with an elevator from the basement stockroom to the cash register [5]. Customers are therefore better served with the same number of employees.
The right balance between automation and “human-work” reinforces LV’s luxury image
Although scarcity is generally a good thing in luxury because it creates an aura around the product, this has a certain limit: you don’t want to frustrate your clients!
LV’s operating & business models work well together [8]: by being able to provide products to their customers on time, ramping up production if a bag becomes popular, LV does not exasperate their customers by turning them down.
Because workers are cross-trained, they identify defects earlier, which leads to fixing flaws more quickly and reducing returns of faulty handbags. This improves the quality image of the brand. Furthermore, the automation of the processes allowed to reduce costs and maintain jobs in France in order to keep the “Made in France” label, further contributing to the brand value.
Finally, less specialization enables workers to make more types of bags – you can shift workers more easily to producing a more popular bag when needed, depending on demand. This allows to create more collections every year and to ship them once every six weeks, twice as fast as before.
In conclusion, LV managed to reach a smart combination of automation and hand-made processes leading to a better ratio between quality and speed, enhancing the reputation of the brand.
Sources:
[1] LV Hong Kong shop, http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=132784241&size=l, kentwang
[2] Louis Vuitton in Japan, Richard Ivey School of Business, 2010-10-15
Disguised as ‘Office Supplies’ from China the U.S. Customs have seized $5 million worth of fake Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci and Fendi fashion accessories
View more inForeign Policy
By Neha Tandon Sharma
luxurylaunches.com
2020-10-01
News of U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) officers intercepting fake designer sandals, purses, scarves and wallets worth millions has become common news. Only last week US Customs seized $2.5 million worth of ‘super fake’ Rolex watches that were shipped from China and now nearly $5 million in fake designer goods are seized at LAX, by CBP. The counterfeit consignment of designer goods at Los Angeles International Airport had arrived from China in the month of July through express air cargo; it was a huge shipment of nearly 200 boxes under the guide of ‘plastic office supplies’. Obviously that marking was far from true and the authorities have counted as many as 2,175 counterfeit Louis Vuitton sandals, 475 Chanel counterfeit sandals; 450 Dior counterfeit sandals, 400 Fendi counterfeit sandals, 375 Versace counterfeit sandals, 325 Gucci counterfeit sandals. It wasn’t just sandals from luxe brands but also handbags and clutches from brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. The authorities seized a total of 572 Dior counterfeit cross body handbags, 625 Louis Vuitton counterfeit clutches, 357 Gucci purses and the equally popular Gucci wallets along with 1,100 Louis Vuitton scarves were also taken.
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Louis Vuitton’s CNY gifting collection has all the stylish stationery you’ll want at work now
Leather pocket mirrors. Photo: Louis Vuitton
For many of us, we spend more time at our work desks than dining or chilling at home so it makes complete sense to dress up our office tables.
And with the Chinese New Year just around the corner, injecting a touch of auspicious red colour into your work area may even help you in welcoming better luck for your professional and personal life in the year ahead. Who doesn’t want that?
Pencil holders in leather and monogram canvas and coated pencils. Photo: Louis Vuitton
So, if you’re thinking of updating your office desk with a new set of stationery, consider Louis Vuitton’s (LV) latest Chinese New Year gifting collection.
The luxury fashion house has introduced several red office desk essentials including notebooks, pencil cases, mouse pads and pocket mirrors (you know, for touching up your makeup or peeping at your office crush).
At the same time, the collection also features other small leather goods such as mini holders in LV’s iconic Monogram for storing game cards and dice.
Card pouches and dice holders in leather and Monogram canvas. Photo: Louis Vuitton
They are perfect for showing off to your friends and relatives, including those nosy uncles and aunties, when they swing by your house during Chinese New Year.
This also means that they’ll be too busy checking out your LV beauties instead of asking you rubbish questions like, “When will you bring your boyfriend home?” or “When are you getting married?”
Don’t wait; go get them now.
Related: Singapore celebrities and Louis Vuitton fans support #MakeAPromise Day
Leather pocket mirrors. Photo: Louis Vuitton
