Outboard motor starter

Outboard motor starter DEFAULT

A starter has only one job, To start the engine. It can be a nightmare for many who packed all the things and traveled 20 miles to the lake to have fun (boating), and all of a sudden, the boat engine won’t start due to a bad starter. So, what are the symptoms of a bad boat starter?

The Symptoms of a bad boat starter are either boat won’t start (starts after turning the key multiple times), gives grinding noise, or buzzing noise like an alarm clock while starting the boat motor. However, some other elements also pose similar signs, but the starter could likely be the culprit.

By turning the ignition key, the battery sends power to the solenoid (fancy name for a replay). Solenoid sends power to the starter motor to spin and then, in turn, spinning the flywheel. That, in turn, spins the crankshaft since the flywheel is bolted and fixed to the crankshaft.

Once the crankshaft spins, the combustion begins and will continue to run the engine without the need for a starter. The whole process won’t happen with a bad starter, making a boat not to start. OK, relax, a bit less (no) technical stuff from now on. That being said, we will now see the symptoms of the bad boat starter in a detailed way.

Related post –Boat Won’t Start And Just Clicks? Check this article to know why sometimes you hear a clicking noise while starting the boat and some easy ways to troubleshoot it.

What Are The Symptoms Of A Bad Boat Starter?

Buzzing Noise While Starting The Engine

When you hear a buzzing noise like an alarm clock near the starter while starting the engine, it indicates a bad starter. A whirring, grinding, or even high-pitched noises are the usual sounds of a bad starter.

The buzzing noise is a result of a low electrical current flowing to the starter motor. This means that electrical power is getting to the starter but not enough to make it actuate and engage with the flywheel.

If it’s a louder grinding sound, the teeth on the flywheel or starter gear are most likely worn/broken, and so the starter gear is slipping on the flywheel teeth, indicating us to fix something.

Boat Won’t Start At All

By turning the ignition key, the battery sends power to the solenoid (fancy name for a replay). Solenoid sends power to the starter motor to spin and then, in turn, spinning the flywheel. That, in turn, spins the crankshaft since the flywheel is bolted and fixed to the crankshaft.

Once the crankshaft spins, the combustion begins and will continue to run the engine without the need for a starter. The whole process won’t happen with a bad starter, making a boat not to start. However, a bad battery can also make a boat not start, so you need to look at all other problems as well that are discussed below.

TIP – Don’t use a car starter in your boat. They may look the same, but they don’t have the shielding necessary for marine use. In fact, the starter for a car looks exactly the same as the one you just removed from your marine engine.

Don’t be fooled by the fact that an automotive starter will set well onto your marine engine. A marine-approved starter has better seals and gaskets to keep water out. It also contains more corrosive-resistant materials, which a car starter will not have.

Troubleshooting The Bad Boat Starter Problem

1. Some Of The Basic Actions To Do First

First things first, there are some basic actions you can do yourself so that you can fix the problem right away within minutes without needing an expert or taking the boat near the mechanic.

Tap The Starter And Check The Working

The starter motor will have brushes made of copper and carbon alloy, which are in housings on the endplate of the starter. Most starter motors have to be removed and partly dismantled to inspect or replace brushes.

These brushes wear out, which results in inadequate electrical contact. By gently tapping on the back of the starter with the rubber hammer or any, the brushes can be knocked back into place so they can make contact one more time.

However, if you find yourself having to do this to start the boat, book a starter service (replace the starter on your boat) because eventually, this method will not work. It can occur again at an inappropriate time (in the waters while boating or at the launch).

2. Check All The Wires & Connections (Clean Them If Needed)

Wires are crucial; they carry the power from the battery to the starter, making your boat engine work. If any of the wire connections are bad or loose, the starter will not get the required power. If no ample power means it won’t start the starter motor, and it won’t crank the engine.

Similarly, corroded wires will not start your boat, and they will not charge the battery properly while running. Too much corrosion build-up will hinder the delivery of power from your battery to the rest of your boat, which means it can prevent your boat from starting.

Not a simple task. Need some good understanding of the whole layout to put the wires back in. So, before you start to reach down to the starter, REMOVE both BIG cables connected to the battery. Mark the cables so you know where to put them back. Similarly, do it for other wires as well.

The ground is also crucial. Check the connections from the ground to the block, clean or tight the connections if necessary. A bad ground will not start the engine, and it could be a simple corroded wire that needs a small rinse.

So, check the overall connections from the battery to the solenoid then to the starter. Might want to take them apart, clean them, and put them together using “grease” designed to keep out air to inhibit corrosion, then you will be good to go.

3. Check The Battery Condition

The battery is the device that starts your boat, and if the battery is dead (discharged), it will not send the required power to the starter, and it won’t start the engine. If you have a multimeter, set it in DC to 20V and check the voltage, it should read around 12 volts or more. If it is lower than that, it needs to be recharged.

After recharging the battery, recheck the voltage. If the voltage is less than 12.6, replace the battery. Your battery could be causing the problem overall. So, check the battery before the wire connections. Then check all the battery terminals and make them clean and tighten the connections if needed.

If the battery worked after a recharge, check the alternator once. When the alternator stops putting out charging voltage, the battery will keep the electricals onboard running until it is discharged. If your boat battery is failing quite often, check the alternator condition.

A voltage test is a good and quick reference but not the proper way to check batteries. A bad battery can still put out 12.6 volts but not for very long at all. It needs to be load tested to get precise answers. Load testing the battery will clearly give all the insights, and from that, you can decide.

Related post –How To Tell If Boat Battery Is Bad? Check this article to know more about properly testing (voltage and load testing) a boat battery before just replacing it unnecessarily.

How To Test For A Bad Boat Starter?

You can easily test the starter condition on the boat by taking the battery power past the solenoid and straight to the starter. If the boat engine starts, the starter is working well, but the solenoid is the real culprit; if the boat engine didn’t start, the starter is probably bad.

From the solenoid, there will be a thick red wire going to the starter. Remove the red battery cable from its terminal, or use a solid jumper and ‘touch’ the output from the solenoid to the starter. Bypass the starter cables with booster cables and see if the engine starts.

By taking the battery power past the solenoid and straight to the starter, will show if the starter is working or not. If the engine starts, it indicates that the starter is working fine and the solenoid is not working since we bypassed the current from the battery to the starter with the booster cable.

Even you can check the voltage drop between the battery and the starter. If the voltage drop is significant, something is preventing the required power to the starter from starting the engine.

Take a look at this very short and helpful video on how to test whether the starter is bad or the solenoid is bad.

If the engine still didn’t start, now it’s time to go near the mechanic. Sometimes you might go near a mechanic for a small loose connection if you didn’t check those basic things, so try all those things prior and go near the mechanic if your boat didn’t start.

The Final Thoughts

The Signs of a bad boat starter are either boat won’t start at all (starts after turning the keys multiple times), gives grinding noise, or buzzing noise like an alarm clock while starting the boat motor. If you see any one of those symptoms, a starter inspection is needed.

By turning the ignition key, the battery sends power to the solenoid (fancy name for a replay). Solenoid sends power to the starter motor to spin and then, in turn, spinning the flywheel. That, in turn, spins the crankshaft since the flywheel is bolted and fixed to the crankshaft.

Once the crankshaft spins, the combustion begins and will continue to run the engine without the need for a starter. The whole process won’t happen with a bad starter, making a boat not to start.

Even if there is a restriction in the flow due to bad or loose wire connections, the starter won’t get the required power, which will not start the engine. So check all the wire connections and battery properly before replacing the solenoid.

Sours: https://www.boatingvalley.com/how-to-tell-if-boat-starter-is-bad-easy-troubleshooting-guide/
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Having problems with your starter? Try our starter tips page.

These are all NEW units, no core required.


MASTERTECH presents quality electrical components by premier AMERICAN aftermarket manufacturers of marine starters, drives, and associated equipment.

About BOMBARDIER (SeaDrive-Johnson-Evinrude) Starter Drives

2-piece Style Drive Gear.
Not  interchangeable with 1-piece style gear as a replacement part, however, the starter ASSEMBLIES themselves will interchange. Your replacement starter may have a different gear style than pictured below but will fit.
1-piece Style Drive Gear.
Not  interchangeable with 2-piece style gear as a replacement part, however, the starter ASSEMBLIES themselves will interchange. Your replacement starter may have a different gear style than pictured below but will fit.
Depending on the manufacturer, we may supply either style. Both are in general use.
The starters are completely interchangeable as assemblies.



9.9 - 15 
8, 9.9, 15 

1997- UP
386430, 763454, MOT2015NMOT2015N
OEM 386430, 763454
10-Tooth Starter Drive
US-made Outboard

9.9-15 HP  
1997- UP584608, 586275, MOT2009NMOT2009N
584608, 586275
10-Tooth Starter Drive
Japanese (Suzuki)-made Outboard
(Motor has spin-on oil filter)

9.9 - 15 
1993-UP586274, 584613, 778995, MOT2016NMOT2016N
OEM # 586274, 584613, 778995
10-Tooth Starter Drive

18-35 HP
25 HP
omc starter 175019
175019 KIT (OEM Only)
22 C.U. motors ONLY, no Big Twins
Includes Mounting Bracket
Not Supplied by Aftermarket Manufacturers
NOTE: The starter's dimensions are physically different from the original but the bracket will position it correctly. The original starter has been discontinued by Johnson/Evinrude for some time.
This starter can be replaced in future with MOT2005N below when it needs replacing again, re-using this bracket

20-35 HP
1988-UP583473, 585059, MOT2005LNMOT2005LN
OEM 583473, 585059
9-Tooth Starter Drive

20-30 HP
25-35 HP
392133, 585061, 586278, MOT2005NMOT2005N
OEM174942, 278232, 378674,
379818, 380239, 381865, 385401,
386591, 392133, 585061, 586278
11-Tooth Starter Drive

25-35 HP 3-Cyl1997-2001586277, 778996, MOT2010NMOT2010N
OEM 586277, 778996
10-Tooth Starter Drive

40-60 HP1971-88585063, 586280, 779993, MOT2002NMOT2002N
OEM 384163, 387684,
329275, 585063, 586280, 779993

40-48-50 HP1989-05583482, 585056, 586279, MOT2002LNMOT2002LN
OEM583482, 585056, 586279
9-Tooth Starter Drive

50 HP 3-Cyl1995-06

585050, 585058, 586281, MOT2001N


OEM 383691, 386657, 384777,
391735, 585050, 585058, 586281
9-Tooth Starter Drive

55 HP
60 HP
65 HP
70-75 HP

585050, 585058, 586281, MOT2001N


OEM 383691, 386657, 384777,
391735, 585050, 585058, 586281
9-Tooth Starter Drive

40-90 HP
EXCEPT75-90 "F" suffix

2004-UP586768, 587045, MOT2013NMOT2013N
OEM 586768, 587045

75-90 HP
"F" suffix models
2010-UP586768, 587045, MOT2013NOEM ONLY  587007$235.00

85-125 HP1969-72383575, 384914, MOT2003ENMOT2003EN
OEM 383575, 384914
10-Tooth Starter Drive (Large Gear)

85-115 V4 Crossflow1973-98585051, 585057, 586283, MOT2003NMOT2003N
OEM 385529, 389954,
585051, 585057, 586283
10-Tooth Starter Drive

90-115 HP
60° Looper
80 JET
1995-UP584980, 586284, MOT2011NMOT2011N
OEM584980, 586284

75-115 HP Direct Injection1999-05586286, 586287, 438878, MOT2008NMOT2008N
Gear Reduction Starter
OEM 432925, 586286, 586287, 438878

120-140 HP V4
130 HP V4
585060, 586285, 778994, MOT2007NMOT2007N
OEM 393570, 585060, 586285, 778994
10-Tooth Starter Drive

V6 Crossflow1976-92585062, 586288, 778992, MOT2004NMOT2004N
387094, 395207, 585062, 586288, 778992
8-Tooth Starter Drive

150-175 HP V61991-06586286, 586287, 438878, MOT2008NMOT2008N
Gear Reduction Starter
OEM 432925, 586286, 586287, 438878

135-175 HP V6
Direct Injection
1997-05586286, 586287, 438878, MOT2008NMOT2008N
Gear Reduction Starter
OEM 432925, 586286, 586287, 438878

90° V6-V8 Looper1986-01586731, 586897, 586890, MOT2006NMOT2006N
391511, 396235, 397023, 584799, 586289, 586411, 586731, 586897, 586890
10-Tooth Starter Drive

ETEC 115-300 HPALL586731, 586897, 586890, MOT2006NMOT2006N
391511, 396235, 397023, 584799, 586289, 586411, 586731, 586897, 586890
10-Tooth Starter Drive


We pay the freight out in USA on all orders over $100.00. Orders less than this amount will have a shipping and handling charge of $8.75 added. Some bulky and heavy items will incur additional charges. You will be notified beforehand if this is the case. Remember, all orders receive free technical support from the MasterTech!

Please review our Warranty, Returns & Refunds policies before you place an order.


The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors. Changes are periodically added to the information herein. Mastertech may make improvements to this site at any time. Parts ordered from this website may or may not be in dealer stock at the time of order. Thank you for reading.

Sours: https://maxrules.com/fixomcstarter.html
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Engine Starter Circuit

A common calamity for which we often get requests for a service call is the engine failing to start or even “turn over”.  Most of us are familiar with the voltage low battery sound of an engine starter motor slowly turning the engine over, but not quick enough to start the engine; some people may have even heard the “clicking” sound from battery voltage so low that the starter motor does not even engage.  Traditional starter circuits are relatively simple, and a basic understanding of the circuit may allow the operator the ability to troubleshoot the circuit.

The “starter” consists of an electric motor powerful enough to turn the engine over, because of high amperage necessary to operate the motor, the actuation of the starter motor to engage, will be accomplished by a solenoid (usually attached to the motor) that will allow a lower amperage momentarily switched circuit to engage the starter motor.  The high amperage cable will be connected to one side of the solenoid, and the other high amperage terminal of the solenoid will be connected to the starter motor.  There will be one or two (two if the solenoid has an isolated ground) smaller terminal(s) on the solenoid that provide electrical actuation for the solenoid.

The starter circuit logic follows this traditional format.  Power is provided to the high amperage side of the starter solenoid by a cable connected to the engine start battery switch.  The starter battery switch will also provide power to the rest of the starter circuit, which may include an additional on/off switch (a.k.a. ignition switch), but must include a momentary switch to operate the starter motor solenoid.  When the engine start battery switch is “on” power should be present at the one side of the starter solenoid, and at one side of the momentary starter switch (possibly from “ignition” switch).  Pressing the momentary starter button sends voltage to the starter solenoid actuation terminal, closing the contact of the solenoid, and engaging the starter motor.  

Sours: https://www.pysystems.ca/resources/articles/engine-starter-circuit/

Are you finding it challenging to rev up your boat? For marine engines, the boat starter in Winter Garden, FL, can be a finicky device. Today, we will discuss what you can do to determine whether your starter requires replacement. Please note that these instructions are for a 12V operating system.

First, let us rule out the other possibilities that can cause an engine to refuse to start. Be sure you are following the manufacturer’s directions for starting your boat. Also, ensure the main fuse is still in good shape and be sure all electrical connections are clean and connected correctly.

With these issues are taken care of, it is time to get your multimeter. Follow these steps:

  1. Turn the dial of the multimeter to DC voltage. Place the red probe and the black probe on their respective posts (red is for positive, black for negative). If the reading is below 11.3, replace or recharge the battery.
  2. With the multimeter still on the DC setting, place the red probe on the engine starter’s positive terminal and the black probe on the engine ground.
  3. Turn your ignition switch to “Start” and read the voltage. If the reading is more significant than 9.5 volts, try to start the engine. If this test fails, then your boat starter requires replacement or rebuilding. If the reading is less than 9.5 volts, you have a voltage loss between the battery and starter. Address this issue and then attempt the test again.

With the right equipment, you can determine whether your boat starter in Winter Garden, FL, requires service. Visit us for a replacement today.

This entry was posted in Uncategorized on by . Sours: https://www.millikanbattery.com/how-to-test-for-a-faulty-boat-starter/

Motor starter outboard

How to Test Outboard Starters

Remove the nut from the starter motor terminal with a 1/4-inch open-end wrench. Lift the red starter cable from the starter motor terminal. Remove the starter from the motor, using 5/8-inch open-end wrench. Move the starter to a soft-jaw bench vise.

Connect a voltmeter across the terminals of a 12-volt DC battery to monitor the battery's voltage. Connect the positive battery cable to the electrical terminal from which you removed the starter cable. Clamp a clamp-type amp multimeter around the positive cable.

Connect one end of an oversize jumper cable -- 12-gauge AWG or larger -- to the negative post of of the battery. Hold a vibration tachometer against the outside of the starter motor.

Connect the jumper from the negative battery post to the starter casing. The starter will begin to run.

Disconnect the negative jumper wire from the starter casing as soon as the starter achieves the correct speed and is within the correct amperage readings. Replace the starter motor if it fails to reach its proper cranking rpm without exceeding the amperage rating for the engine model.


  • "Johnson Repair Manual - 2.5 to 250 HP Models, 2002-2007"; Seloc Marine; 2007


  • As the test starts, check the meters.The voltmeter must not drop below 12 volts DC when you connect the negative jumper cable to the starter. If it does so, it needs replacement.
  • Watch the amp clamp, the vibration tachometer and the voltmeder's readings while testing. The correct speeds and amperages are as follows: for 9.9 horsepower four-stroke, 9.9 horsepower two-stroke and 15 horsepower two-stroke motors, the starter must rotate between 7000 rpm and 9200 rpm while drawing no more than 7 amps. For four-stroke motors of between 18 and 35 horsepower, and two-stroke motors of between 25 and 35 horsepower, the starter must rotate between 6500 rpm and 7500 rpm while drawing no more than 30 amps. For larger motors, the starter must rotate between 5700 rpm and 8000 rpm while drawing no more than 32 amps.


  • Conduct this test in a well-ventilated area, lest a spark from one of the jumper cables ignites gasoline vapors in the area as you connect the negative cable to the starter's casing.

Writer Bio

Will Charpentier is a writer who specializes in boating and maritime subjects. A retired ship captain, Charpentier holds a doctorate in applied ocean science and engineering. He is also a certified marine technician and the author of a popular text on writing local history.

Sours: https://goneoutdoors.com/test-outboard-starters-7806035.html
Boat Clicks, But no Start, Starter Relay on Bayliner Capri Mercruiser Alpha One 3.0L, FnF399

You got the boat packed with your gear and your best friends. When you go to start the engine, it simply clicks. Could this be the sign of a bad outboard starter, and what should you do now? As to not disappoint anyone, you want to figure out the problem – and fast.

When an outboard starter fails, it will turn the engine over slowly, not at all, or make a clicking sound. It can also spin extremely fast but not engage or turn the flywheel of the engine.

We will take a closer look at the outboard starter, discuss why it goes bad and tell you what you can do about it.

What is an Outboard Starter?

The starter is a device that cranks the engine to initiate operation with its own power. The motor is considered a feedback system, meaning it relies on the inertia from one cycle to start the next.

To begin the first cycle, the starter motor is required. By turning the key, the starter begins spinning and then in turn, spins the engine over.

Once the engine begins spinning, the combustion begins and will continue to run the engine without the need of the starter!

bad outboard starter

How Do I Know if My Outboard Starter is Bad?

In most cases, a bad outboard starter will produce a clicking noise when initiated.

When you turn the key or push the button, you might only get a clicking sound. In some situations, repeatedly trying to start the engine might produce success, while others will never get the engine going again without a repair.

If the starter is failing, it might also get hot.

However, when the starter appears bad, it could simply be a situation where the connections have failed or the solenoid is faulty.

What are the Signs of a Bad Starter?

The tell-tale sign of a bad starter is the clicking noise that you hear when you attempt to start the engine.

To determine if the starter is what is causing your problem, or another part, you must perform some troubleshooting.

How Do I Know if My Starter Motor Needs Replacing?

In addition to the starter, you must consider that the solenoid on the outboard engine has gone bad. This part is responsible for transmitting battery voltage to your starting motor.

The contact located inside the starter solenoid activates a circuit to open and allow electrical current to transmit from the battery to the boat’s starter.

This, in turn, starts the outboard engine. A faulty solenoid could prevent the starter from getting power, so ruling this out first before condemning your starter is a must!

To determine what’s causing your starting issue, follow these steps.

Step #1: Connect Voltmeter

Place your voltmeter’s positive lead to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the voltmeter’s negative lead to the bare metal located on the engine.

You should see a minimum of 12.6 volts. If you get a reading less than this, it’s likely that your battery isn’t fully charged, which could be causing your issues.

Step #2: Inspect the Cabin Fuse Box

You want the starter fuse or relay to sit tight in the connectors. You also don’t want the fuse element to be blown.

If you see a bad fuse, replace it immediately.

You can also exchange the starter relay with a similar one in the box and re-test operation. If the engine starts, you know what’s causing the problem.

Step #3: Remove Cowling

Take off the engine cowling or hood. You want to undo the handles holding the cowling on. Then pull it off the engine after the handles are free.

Deactivate your lanyard cut-off switch, so the engine doesn’t get accidentally started.

Step #4: Test Solenoid

The solenoid is located directly next to the starter, which is on the engine block. If you can’t find it, reference your owner’s manual.

Put the voltmeter’s positive lead to the large battery connection on the solenoid. This is typically a red wire. Put the ignition key into the ON position.

You should see 12.6 volts or battery voltage present.

Now, place the positive lead on the smaller wire terminal of the solenoid. This wire is typically yellow or purple.

Place the negative lead to a ground source. Have someone else turn the key.

Your voltmeter should read at least 12.6 volts. You also want to listen for the solenoid to click and the starter should spin.

If you don’t have 12.6 volts and you face a starter that doesn’t spin, your problem might be the ignition switch itself.

Finally, put a jumper wire on the large battery terminal of the solenoid. Leave the ignition key on.

Put the other end of the jumper wire to the second solenoid post. If you have three posts, you want to jump the two largest terminal posts.

If you don’t hear any clicking and the starter refuses to spin, there is a short in the solenoid requiring a replacement.

Otherwise, if the solenoid clicks but the starter does not spin, it’s your starter that has an internal short, requiring a replacement.

When the Outboard Motor Won’t Start

bad outboard engine starter

Outboards are complex but operate on basic four-stroke technology. When the outboard boat engine doesn’t turn over, it could be a bad outboard starter or one of many other issues.

The outboard requires the following elements to run correctly:

  • Properly timed ignition
  • Right ratio of fuel/air
  • Compression
  • Exhaust

While troubleshooting a modern outboard can be complicated, it’s not impossible to do on your own. By following this flow chart, you might be able to isolate the issue. At worst, you will have more information to share with your boat mechanic.

1. Start with Lights & Gauges

When you turn your key to start the engine but nothing occurs, leave the key “ON.” Don’t turn it to the start position.

Now is a good time to determine if the gauges and lights are operating.

If nothing is working, make sure your battery switch (if you have one) is placed at “ON” or “BOTH.”

2. Evaluate the Gear Shift Position

If the other accessories are working, but the engine doesn’t start, check your gear shift. It must be in the neutral position because the majority of outboards won’t crank if the engine is left in gear.

3. Look at Emergency Shutoff

Is the emergency shutoff cap in place? With some setups, the engine won’t crank if the kill switch is out.

4. Inspect The Battery Cables

Use a voltmeter to check your battery. You should have a minimum of 12 volts. Otherwise, you might not be able to engage the starter.

As long as the battery is charged, you can evaluate the cables running from your battery to the boat’s engine. Sometimes, the connections become loose over time or they end up corroded.

If corrosion is the issue, use a simple baking soda mixture to clean the battery terminals.

5. Check Fuses

The outboard’s main fuse is in a large red holder found on the engine’s wiring harness or in a fuse panel with other fuses to miscellaneous parts on the engine. Most times, it’s a simple 20-amp fuse that isn’t difficult to replace.

Otherwise, if the fuse seems good, you want to check the boat’s main power plug connecting the engine wiring to the vessel.

You can also inspect the neutral switch, which is found in the control box. This switch is connected with either yellow or red/yellow-striped wires.

6. Inspect the Primer Bulb

There must be enough fuel getting to the engine. If you pump the primer bulb, it should become firm after a few squeezes. Keep in mind, not every boat has a primer bulb.

If this doesn’t become firm, you might have a leak somewhere in the line, filter, tank or engine. It could also be due to a bad valve located inside the bulb itself.

7. Inspect Filters

Pull out the filters and look for sediment or water.

 8. Look at Fuel Line Couplings

Inspect the fuel line couplings to ensure they are properly locked and seated. You should also look at the O-rings. One torn O-ring might introduce air to the fuel and prevent the engine from starting.

Additionally, if the engine comes with an electric primer, you should be able to remove the tiny fuel hose that goes from it to the carburetor or intake. While someone else is operating the primer, watch it to see if any fuel squirts out.

9. Replace Spark Plugs

You can replace the spark plugs to see if that helps as well. There are many times where the spark plugs have been left for many years and hours of use.

And over time they can become fouled out or shorted. Not allowing the engine to get proper spark to the cylinders to allow the engine to run.

10. Inspect the Exhaust Outlet

Look for blockage in the exhaust outlet. When the engine can’t exhaust burnt fuel and air, it ceases to start.

This often occurs after the outboard has been stored for the winter. Look for large rodent nests in the spring within the exhaust that causes a blockage.

11. Check Engine Compression

You may want to perform an outboard compression test at this point in time. Just to make sure the engine is still a viable engine and hasn’t blown up!

If your outboard is lacking compression, you probably won’t be able to fix it at the boat ramp. At this point, it might be time to call your mechanic.

How to Start a Boat with a Bad Outboard Starter

Until you get the time to repair your boat, you might simply want to start it in a different way. There is a workaround if you find that your starter is bad.

Some people tap the starter with a small hammer while another person turns the key. However, this isn’t always wise and is often frowned upon, but sometimes it can get the starter to engage to allow you to start the engine.

You can also apply direct power to the solenoid. This bypasses the solenoid with positive voltage, which should engage the starter. You should hear the engine crank and you will probably see a spark.

We have to discourage against this practice, even though it works, as you could fry something very easily. However, we also understand that you could be stuck somewhere, requiring a quick start!

Check Us Out!

If you love all things boating, you will enjoy our YouTube channel, which offers more step-by-step guides and practical tips.

Additionally, you can check out the other articles on our site for how-to information regarding your outboard and boat.

The Different Sections Of An Outboard & How They Work

What Are the Symptoms of a Bad Coil on an Outboard Motor?

Signs of a Bad Outboard Lower Unit & What to Do Next

Sours: https://www.bornagainboating.com/bad-outboard-starter/

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I was even glad that I agreed to go. We danced a lot, mostly I danced with Yuri. Sergey and Victor found common interests. Yura was constantly telling something - either anecdotes or some funny stories. The drink was also decent.

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